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I Forge Iron


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About elmoleaf

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  1. Looks pretty good from here. Lots of overpriced junk for sale here in MA, so that one seems worth the price.
  2. This is mine, but not made by me. Marked B. DAVIES ALL WROUGHT IRON WARRANTED. Found with a metal detector about 35 years ago. It’s currently kludged into a hollow core door. It’s interesting how the latch is pinned to those separate thin side cheek pieces, which seem to be wedged/notched into the sides of the latch hole. Aside from the actual pull handle, it’s all pretty thin and light material.
  3. Agree...very beautiful and clean. Well done!
  4. True only of San Francisco minted pieces intended for collectors. The regular 71-78 dated issues are the typical copper nickel clad composition.
  5. Love your videos. Nice drift. Did you drift the test head upside down though? Widest part of the eyehole seemed like it would be facing the handle the way you did it, instead of furthest from hand/at top of the axe.
  6. My first pair of tongs is far left..5/8th rebar, with drilled bolt hole and peened over bolt. Got ambitious on the second pair (2nd from left)...Pelgrom tongs with wacky proportions and weak area in one of the jaws. These were drawn out from some heavier rebar. They haven’t broken yet, but do have some unwanted flex. 3rd from left pair....kind of a cold mess (they’d be a hot mess if I actually used them). Jaws went awry and one is very weak. Ended up with odd boss/handle junction angle. But like the previous pair, I punched the rivet hole and peened a rod for the rivet. Made the
  7. Wow, what a difference a butcher block brush makes! Used one for the first time today...makes short work of scale and getting a nicer finish. I had been using a wood handled painter’s wire brush, which I’ll keep for more complex detailed areas that the butcher block doesn’t do well with.
  8. Made handle for the ball pein on the right in the photo. Oak split from log with a froe, then shaped with drawknife and sanded.
  9. Cold does not enhance the concentration of urushiol. It is found in poison ivy’s roots and stems throughout the year. In spring, as the sap rises into the stems and the plant leafs out, poison ivy has the most places from which the oil can spread to you. The best time to actually dig it out is fall/winter, when the leaves are less oily or gone....but all the usual precautions are still needed. And of course, the oil can transfer from tools, clothing, etc to your skin. If your chips are from a suburban tree service you’re likely to be ok, but ask them anyway. Most lawn and street trees the
  10. Before the cold weather hit (I don’t have an indoor shop), I made a little creature from rebar for a relative.
  11. Also added handle to the mystery hammer (left). Face is concave, should be fine for striking punches etc. Rounded end is sorta cross pein/round. Other hammer maybe old auto body hammer...cleaned up ends...slender rounded end may be useful for some tasks.
  12. Replaced the spindly handle (far right) on a big ball peen hammer. Handle was too round and small diameter, so hammer would twist in my hand. Had some oak kicking about...not the best material for handle, but was easy enough to shave down with a draw knife. The 48oz cross pein followed me me home from an exit off ramp about 1992...saw it one day...was still there the next day...and it was safe enough to pull over and grab it. The short handle 2lb hammer (far left) I inherited from my father.
  13. Thomas, thank you for the info..I’ll do some reading on that. Yes, I have old chisels marked “cast steel”. ...that’s what got me thinking along those lines, along with the hammer’s seemingly smooth uniform shape.
  14. Dimensions are in the photos. Weight is a bit less than 2lbs. Have not spark tested but think it is cast steel, not wrought, based on pocked appearance vs “grainy” rusted wrought I’ve dealt with. Closest shape I’ve seen is a Bell linesman pointed peen hammer. Ship maul is similar, but this has a deliberate curve to the narrow end. Just trying to understand what it is before any doing repurposing....though the rather small roundish eyehole will make getting a strong handle on it difficult. And the deep surface defect may require too much grinding. Guess this will remain a junk basher f
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