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About elmoleaf

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  1. Walking to work downtown Boston this morning... found this sitting in gutter next to the curb. Hundreds of people must have already walked right by it, but I picked it up. CM Herc Alloy hook, about 7” high.
  2. Where else but this forum can I read a forging thread and end up googling Dunning-Kruger and be reminded about Pixy Stix. Learned something new and was reminded of a candy I love. This site has great information!
  3. I somewhat wondered how they managed to produce this chain. A bit of googling came up with this interesting website: The Medieval Roots of Colonial Iron Manufacturing Technology http://www.engr.psu.edu/mtah/articles/roots_colonial_iron_technology.htm It compares Colonial iron production methods to that of medieval Europe. It was interesting to note that the Colonies were expected to send their iron production to England: By 1751, Maryland and Virginia alone furnished England with 2,950 tons of iron, one-sixth of the mother country's own production. [20] [21] Finished goods such as pots, pans, hinges and tools were not to be made in the colonies, however, but bought and shipped from England. Beginning in 1660 and lasting until the Revolutionary War, a list of "enumerated articles" was published by the British government under the heading of the Navigation Acts. These articles, including cast pig iron, wrought bar iron, among others, were to be produced in the colonies, but shipped only to British ports. [22] Later, the Iron Act of 1750 reiterated those sentiments and prohibited all export of iron from the colonies to other countries. It did, however, remit all duties on exports to England, increasing the tonnage of iron exported from 3,000 in 1750 to 8,000 in 1770. [23] Understandably, complying with these laws would have eventually led to the undermining of all colonial iron manufacture efforts, which became a contributing factor to the ensuing revolution. Harold Livesay, summed it up in his statement, "The English passed laws to protect their market; the colonists developed iron works to ensure their iron supply." [24]
  4. It's just as well I didn't take photos of the longer "reproduction" they had at the island; it was a dozen or so links of laminated plywood painted black! The caretaker was a very knowledgeable fellow; it would not surprise me to find the inauthenticity bothers him. It would be an amazing project if someone with the means could give the Army a more authentic reproduction. The site itself is not easily accessed by the general public. As an aside, apparently in the early 1900s someone was passing off ship anchor chain as being genuine links from the original.
  5. I recently had occasion to visit West Point, including Constitution Island across the Hudson River. There they have some reproduction links of the Great Chain that was stretched across the Hudson River to prevent British ships from passing. It was floated on log rafts across the river. Each link is about 2' long. A short climb through the woods at the island brought us to Redoubt #7, which has a commanding view across the Hudson towards West Point (third picture). Along the way, we passed an old stone wall, on which was resting a rather large abandoned piece of wrought iron. The last pic (not mine) are the only existing links of the original chain. They reside at Trophy Point within the West Point grounds.
  6. I'd also suggest that any formal organization--if the parent/guardian will NOT be present at all times--ensure that adults taking responsibility for youth be given appropriate training and have documented CORI (criminal background) checks to protect both the youth and the organization. It is an unfortunate need in this litigious age of seemingly endless predator stories.
  7. Here's a bad phone pic of the previous version as installed. 1/8" thick x about 2" flat stock (old spring harrow tine). Didn't do so well on the curved ends on that one. Current version is much shorter in how far onto the worksurface it extends, and is only 1/8" x 1" wide stock (piece of scrap steel found in the gutter while walking in Boston). Thanks for all of the tips. I'll keep at it.
  8. Ps.. No felt pads. I want it to grip tight....I just make sure it's real clean so it doesn't mar the laminate when slid on.
  9. Thanks for the feedback. No pics re: jig. I just grab a couple rr spikes or other 2 pieces of scrap stock and tighten parallel in vice with 3 inches or so protruding vertically. I'm thinking maybe 2 or 3 pieces of identical size stock notched to slide in u -channel or similar would work better in the vice. Then the distances between pieces could easily adjust, stay parallel and clamp at once together in the vice. Ill get a pic at work tomorrow of the previously completed mouse tray so you can see the wood part. Thank you...one thing always leads to parallel projects...improving how to bend...and I realize I need shallower forge pot and better coal...all of these and practice will lead to making items like this a lot quicker 4 odd hours!
  10. This is a bracket to hold a computer mouse tray/shelf below a desk surface. It friction fits onto the edge of the desk. The lower arm will have a rotating wood tray held with a bolt, large washers and nut. This is the third one I've made...they get incrementally better each time. Hardest part for me are the right angle bends. I need to get some sort of adjustable bending jig made with square stock. My current method is first bend made in vise (easy). Second bend is uses whatever random assortment of square pieces I can get into the vice to make a homemade bending jig. Does not work well, especially since the dimension of the first bend is critical to having tight friction fit on the counter. Some of the bends end up too rounded or crooked. Scrolls seem simple enough...until I make them. Start with punched hole, then slit down to it and open up two halves. It is very difficult to slit the stock equally, taper equally and bend equally so it all looks symmetrical in the end. Did a little brass brushing to highlight the scrolls.
  11. XXXXXX ....I thought he was gonna pull that knife right into his thumb! Still got the willies from watching that!
  12. Your steel would probably work as well--likely better--than what I'm using. You have more surface area and mass. Stand it on end on a log or any stand with some mass, and anchor it to keep it from bouncing. The steel in mine is soft enough to file---see the visible dents? But as a no-cost starting point for learning, it can't be beat. I now have a better sense of what I need etc. and am actively looking for a true anvil (or at least a larger chunk of steel!) Good luck.
  13. elmoleaf

    2014 1213 anvil

    My current anvil. Approx 1-1/8" x 4" x something or other tall piece of steel. Stood on end, caulked on bottom and wedged tight into 2x6 holder that's screwed down to large oak log.
  14. Decided to ignore the football game and instead make another attempt at skeleton key style openers. Steps were: 1. upset end of rebar. 2. flatten out upset area into un-centered rectangular area. 3. taper opposite end for loop and form loop. 4. hot punch hole thru rectangular area and enlarge hole. 5. hot cut two times to remove material at/adjacent to hole. 6. fussing about etc. to clean up opener end and get distance/angle correct. 7. Bit of filing and clean up to remove square edges at loop and opener end. Forming loops and working inside diameters is done with rod clamped in a vice, as I don't have a true anvil with horn. Thanks for all the feedback.
  15. First opener attempt...and about my 6th thing made, after some tongs and some assorted hooks. :P Inspiration was to have opener somewhat like a big old skeleton key, and wanted the source material--rebar-- to still be apparent. On the first, one, I formed the loop on the end first...which made it a bit harder working on the tooth part. Second one, I flattened the end area first to do the tooth first. I'm generally ok with the loops, not so much with the teeth. Transition from the flat area to the round handle is messy. Needs some sort of clean line there. Also, the profile of the tooth end isn't very intentional looking. I also didn't clean up the hot cut/inside edge of the tooth enough. The tooth was difficult. Used a hot cut to make diagonal though the flat area, then opened it up by working it around a round rod in the vice. In hindsight, should've hot punched a hole first, then hot cut over to it. I wire-wheeled them to brighten them up....nobody wants to use a dirty-looking opener. Well at least they actually work, and I learned some things for the next attempt. Thanks for looking.