Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

I'll have to remember that analogy JHCC. One time I made a pair and did the mirror image (head slap) so I made another pair just like the first and swapped both sides. Came up with a pair of right hand and a pair left hand tongs. I hate throwing stuff on the scrap pile.

Have you tried wetting the warped section and putting weight on it to straighten it out? I've had success doing that several times on projects. If you have a way to steam it that works even better.

I have to agree about the heavy pipe. I think it is pulling the whole burner out of alignment. What you could do is eliminate the long vertical section and make a vertical bracket to support the shorter horizontal run and attach the hose to the elbow. Another fix would be to use 3/8 in copper tubing from the burner to connect the hose, using compression fittings. Adding more screws lower like the top ones will also help holding the burner firm. I had to do that with our forge.

I agree and should have pointed that out. Sometimes what's in my head doesn't come out of my fingers. I was referring to setting the welds as I've seen many folks try to set the weld with a power hammer. Now using a press is another thing. I wish I had a press, maybe some day..

Not all knowledge comes from college.

To speed up the drying, put an incandescent light bulb inside (preferably lighted).

I find the best way to stop glasses from fogging while wearing a mask is to make sure the mask fits tight around the nose and cheeks.

That too.

Not mentioned are chives and garlic, it's just not right to cook without garlic and a baked potato with butter, chives and sour cream is hard to beat.

I got a replacement for mine on eBay.

I wouldn't, afraid the paint might deteriorate due to the oil and leave too much clearance or bearing spin.

I use an old squirt bottle like ketchup or other condiments come in.

This is how I made the channels. Tac welded angle iron together to make a channel wide enough to hold the soft fire brick, then welded them to the body.That way the opening front & back stayed the same but can be closed down easily.

The yellow may be the refractory curing, give it a little time then make just one change at a time, changing more will make it hard to tell what is working.

That will make a good stand. I'm of the same mind and fancy stands are low on the list for me, cut logs have worked for all our anvils for more than 30 years.

"the difference between a master and a beginner is that the master has failed more times then the beginner has started" ~Deimos

Save it, the motor may be good and they have been used for belt grinders. The tread mill will come in handy cut up for under an anvil or other stuff.

I agree with arkie. Where in the world did you find such a pristine 119 pound M&H Mousehole anvil? Just wait till JHCC has a look at it. BTW: the slight sway is a plus in my book, better than a dead flat anvil. I hope you have read about not doing any grinding, milling or welding to the hardened face. That's a good looking stand too.

Or as in our case the mice like to eat them.

We have a club member (Master Swordsmith) who forges in tennis shoes, with a pair of deerskin spats. How cool is that.

Whenever I have to cut a wonky tip, I use the hot cut and continue shaping the blade.

You should have told them the secret to making a knife is practice, practice, practice.

Before we knew about Kast-o-Lite 30 we coated the fiber with a 1/2 inch layer of Satanite and then a coating of Bubble Alumina. It has worked very well for us so far. You might check to see if someone near you has or can get it.

As of yesterday, it was $1.49 a gallon here, just went up from $1.29.

Not to nit pick, but you do realize a cudgel is a short club, quite different from a bo staff