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About Gavj75

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Marske, north east UK.
  • Interests
    Backyard Engineering

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  1. Thanks for the info guys. The kind of stock I'll be working will be probably no thicker than 40mm. I plan to make Damascus blades however I'm quite a creative chap so who knows what my forging future holds? As for the 'outliers', I'm not sure what you mean by this term? Can you explain please? Thanx, Gav
  2. Hello again to all. My latest project is a tyre hammer and so far, I think my build is coming on quite well but again, I'm not to sure about something. So my first question is this:- is it down to personal preference for how much vertical travel the hammer has or are there any kind of parameters to go by? My hammer is around 45lb and I was thinking around 6 inches. Any advice? Second question:- I was going to set my hammer up so that it's just touchin the anvil when it's at it's lowest point in a stationary position therefore, the flex on the spring when it's in motion will give the hammer it's power.I was going to put some shims under the anvil so I have some adjustability. Am I going about this the right way as this is all guess work on my part or is there a better way to do it? Any advice will be much appreciated, thanks Gav
  3. Thanks guys, this helps my decision making with regards to my hammer build a lot.
  4. A quick question for thoses who know: Is it crucial that the counter-weight on the opposite side of the wheel from the ''spring mechanism'' (not sure what else to call it), is the same weight as the hammer and spring mech? Thanks
  5. Thanks for the advice guys, im going 2 go with the angled approach. I do have another conundrum and that is that the end of my burner gets red hot quite quickly so im wondering if I need to do something to reduce this or is it normal? I'll take a few piccie's at work 2moro to give you a better idea of what i'm working with. Cheers chaps, Gav
  6. Hi everyone. Ive slowly been building a small propane forge from a gas cylinder in my dinner break at work and have come to a point where I need some guidance. From looking at the small single burner forges you can buy, I see that some have the burner pointing into the forge vertically and some are at roughly 45°. Is there a particular reason for one way rather than the other as I'm not sure which way to mount mine? Thanks Gav
  7. Recently I read that u can make ridgidizer by mixing fumed silica powder with water but as I can't find the post I read this in I can't be sure. Can someone please tell me if this will work and be ok to put on my ceramic fibre insulation? Thanks
  8. HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL I've recently started to build a small propane forge from a small gas bottle and as always with my builds, it's been a steady learning curve from start to finish. I've had quite a few problems to solve along the way, and so far I've managed to sort all of them by doing a little bit of reading of the posts on IFI. My latest hurdle was ''ridgidizer''. What is it? Where can I buy it? Can I make my own? If so, how? All these questions were answered 4 me here on IFI. I spoze what I'm saying is that if your new to forging and enjoy building your own equipment and tools like me then do your research and you'll have a better success rate. When I first discovered ''I Forge Iron'' I would post a question and would get lots of great advice and help from loads of different people with masses of experience and that was great. Then, I think it was Frosty, who advised me to try reading the posts 4 the answers I was seeking, which I did, and I discovered everything I wanted to know and more. Great site Thanks IFI
  9. I've spent a bit of time making an anvil from a 12" piece of railtrack and I'm really pleased with how it looks however after reading some of the posts and their replys I'm not sure whether a 6×6" block of 275 mild steel would of been a better option. I don't know what steel railtrack is but I do know it's hard and the mild steel is not but there would be more mass of steel under the strike of my hammer with the block. I'm guessing that the block would absorb more of my hammers energy than the railtrack therefore making it not as good but like I said, I'm guessing and arn't sure. Can someone please advise. Thanks, Gav
  10. Sorry it's taken me a little while to reply. Thanks for your advice guys as it'll help me out quite a bit. I wouldn't of thought about etching the different steels individually. I'll be over the moon if I can achieve something close to the results on your dagger. It looks really cool. Thanks again, Gav One last thing, is that a ladder pattern?
  11. Hello people. I'm not to far off from attempting my first hand hammered Damascus and my question is this:- From the steels which I have, which ones will work best together to forge a nice light/dark contrasting stripey Damascus? I have access to ''heavy-duty steel bandsaw blade'',''steel banding''(used for banding steel down on pallets),various different ''leaf springs''(5160 I think) and some ''circular saw blades''. I would appreciate any advice from anyone that may be able to help me with this. Thank's, Gav
  12. I'd just like to say a huge thank you to everyone who has helped me out with these problems. This community of people are all helpful, kind and generous and I'm happy I discovered "I FORGE IRON" A big thumbs-up to everyone
  13. Hey Steveo, My drive wheel is 5" .I've been on a steep learning curve with this build so I'm guessing it's a bit big is it? What size would be right? Cheers Gav
  14. I am very happy with how my sander looks Mike but it's not what's important really. Yours works properly and you can use it. At present , mine doesn't. On a more positive note with regards to my sander, it's cost me very little to build so far. I'm a plater by trade so I have free access to most of the materials and equipment used to make it. I've had to buy the aluminium round-bar which a friend turned down and made my rollers/wheels with and I also bought the 8" bench grinder, which I thought would be ok to power it with - NOT. That's about it though and when I source an appropriate motor (a very kind Mr. Timgunn 1962 may be helping me with one), it should be up and working ok and I can put the 8" bench grinder back together and use it. I reckon I've spent around £80 so far but £45 was on the bench grinder. I reckon I'm in the ''excellent value'' category as it stands. Gav
  15. I painted it with cans of spray. I gave it a good undercoat first then just built up the blue with multiple light coats in till I was happy. Can u post some pics of your build please Mike? Cheers , Gav