Ten Hammers

" It takes just as long to walk to the saw as it does to use a hot cut. " thanks Timothy. In reality, the vise and hacksaw are on one side, the chopsaw on the other (the portaband is normally close to the vise but never know ). Like Frank sez, a piece of angle and some drilling and welding makes many different fixtures to bend from. A piece of angle and a 1/2" close nipple welded to a hole ( making the nipple vertical from the vise jaws ) and you can now make different radius screw in fixtures. Use couplers to weld to the center of various pipe pieces. I make rings (example 12" diameter from 3/16x3/4 stock) in the vise cold. Weld the joint with the mig and true up on either the cone mandrel or a duece and a half brake drum. MANY things made cold (fixtures, jigs, process parts, finished goods). I use the torch and gas saver to make a lot of small stuff but of course the forges are the tools for most things. My mentor died in 1995. He would be the FIRST to ask me " Steve, why would you waste your time doing that the old fashioned way when you have power tools ? " I might reply that it is nice to know the old ways. He might say that you can drill 6 holes with a power drill in the time it takes to use that old fashioned drill pushed up against your chest for one hole. We use what we use to get the job done. Some will think there is no other way than traditional ( whatever that means). I ABSOLUTELY use forge welding when necessary. I also use the mig, stick and weld with the torch. Rust and rivets are honest. Many wives tales exist. Sorry if I hijacked the thread.

I have burned olive oil on de-scaled metal for years. Once burned ( carmelized if you please ) this finish is outstanding. IT WILL RUST YES. Any ferrous metal utensil will. The olive oil finish is not spec food grade but I have hundreds of utensils with it. The finish is heated in a charcoal or gas fire.

Outstanding vid ! Nice use of tooling ( built for purpose ) and very nice teamwork. Thanks for posting PTree.

Old shafting is one thing. REALLY old is another. My experience has been with cold shafting that is dead on ( perhaps .003-005 under). For example, GRA100 nppb bearing ( 1" pillow block bearing, greasable) will measure dead on 1". The older stuff than me ( and I'll be 60 this year) may have been smaller (shafting) but not in my experience. This is how I learn. Had never heard of undersized. Hot rolled of course can vary large. It (in my experience) has scale on it and is FINE for forging. Mostly will be close in diameter but of course no need for close tolerance ( to fit bearings). It USED to be about half the price of cold but anymore it's closer than that. This is round or square stock.

I was taught stick at a young age, torch welding in high school. MIG I picked up myself. I have a Miller 172, a Wards 210 amp stick and of course the torch ( Victor and Dillon torches, welds with the Dillon ). School will be your best bet yes unless you have someone like Harold, David, Frank or Frosty for a neighbor. TIG is a breeze once you get oxyfuel welding. Stay with a major brand mig ( Miller, Lincoln, ESAB, Hobart, etc) for here in the states. I use 75/25 gas for the mig here at home. I have welded with 95/5, 90/10, stargon for stainless and C02. I have welded with flux core and flux with gas over (in the wind). Guess I will always use 75/25 at home. You have a LARGE window of experience in this thread. I will always use 7018 stick for powershafts and other AG work although the mig is fine for some of it. Torch welding rusty stuff is fine and so is forge scaled stuff. All process is handy to have and some are more important than others depending on the situation. School should teach you about the dangers of bottles and the need to have a good rock grinder to make stack welds among other things. a good ground is important. Like has been mentioned, get a GOOD helmet. you will learn if you like green, red or gold lens. You will also learn to keep some clean top covers for the helmet. I have a Jackson old school and a Huntsman automatic (both on shade 10 although I like 9 better sometimes). I weld oxyfuel with shade 5 shades.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=39501 Gives you an idea of what is possible.

http://www.kcci.com/weather/you-wont-believe-these-5-day-rainfall-totals/-/9358602/20361272/-/aylab7z/-/index.html What a difference a year makes. I KNOW south Texas is upside down ( San Antonio and south ) with rain.

I have welded hardox. Norton cup wheel and a 7" grinder to remove millscale pre weld. Yes we used 400 amp pulse programmed welders ( roughly 500" wire and above). Tough stuff yes.

Excellent use of process and skill. Both build character and business.

You will find the further you go into this website, the more you will learn.

Woodsmith, thanks. Like Rich says you have shared a lot of stuff in the past. Exceptional work.

bump ?

For all those that whine " I can't find any equipment around here " , this thread is your key to whats up in smithing. Good job bud.

Fusion welding with a torch will fill many needs in the shop. You will need instructions on how to set things up and how to handle bottles and regulators. As stated, stainless and al can be welded with the torch. I know for a fact that the underground gas lines in Davenport Iowa were welded with torch years ago ( 1/4 wall 16" mains ). I have a friend that did a lot of the welding. I use OA to weld a lot but also have arc welders. Also as stated, hire an electrician to wire an outlet if needed.

OUTstanding group of work. Thank you indeed Owen. Sweet little gremlins ( naked or not). Would be proud to own one yes.

I frequently visit the Zion/Waukegan areas. Would enjoy meeting some smiths in these areas ( or Kenosha ). I do not bring any tools with me when I come.

Congrats Frank. That school surely was in St. Louis ( whaza matta u ? ). I very much enjoy your knowledge and help. Thank you and many more years to you.

Steve, I have used hard solder ( silver bearing 1250º Harris with their flux) to repair these. Use an acetelyne torch and a little bitty tip ( unless you have that kind of control on your tig).

I (yesterday) drilled four 9/16 holes in a piece of 3/4 plate while talking to a friend on the phone ( bluetooth ). I used a Cole Drill and I had located the center punch marks about 1/8 deep with a small bit just to get an accurate placement. This was a mount for a pintle hitch. I SHOULD have ground the mill scale off the plate since it is the stuff that dulls bits but the bit is still sharp. I started and stopped on each hole. As Thomas stated, drill speed and feed rate/down hole pressure are the tickets. The friend didn't even know what I was doing until I told him (I dropped the bottle of cutting fluid and he heard me stretch to the floor). I learned a long time ago that as long as the drill is turning and cutting ( power drill ) don't stop and you will have success. Good cutting fluid of course is important. Slow speed works. I have no drill press that goes slow enough for anything more than 5/16 bits, hence the use of the cole drill. I have hand drills but they only have 3/8 chucks. Proper sharpening is of course the key. I only have HSS bits and have broken maybe one bit on 10 years.

Indeed good news on the improvements ( and the advice for yourself to rest too). God Bless you folks and hope things continue to improve. Sometimes it is a while before we see progress but we must remain positive.

Good stuff Judson. I have made them for carpenters that visit the Threshers shop over the years. You do good work.

Nice work Mike ( and a fair bit of work it was ! )

Look at picture #1. There is a diamond shaped mark on the far side. Likely a Trenton Clip horn is fine, you can work around that ( wrap on the horn in front of it ). Appears to be in fairly good shape.

Pete, welcome.

Needle scalers are handy tools ! Clorox will rust yes. Nice repair job.