Ten Hammers

I think the work is outstanding. Quit when you done.

Your own forge and your own fire building skills will be the thing that teaches you ( along with what Rich and Thomas have typed).

Beth, to answer your question ( but you asked Mark I know ), the mallet is simply a top tool. If you have a nice smooth place on the bottom (like the horn or radiused edge) you get some of the predicted result. I still like using a nice smooth faced steel hammer for finishing but use a mallet for some things (dry and yes it may smoke if the stock is too hot ).

" I am more process oriented than product oriented. " Ok hope this ain't a hijack.... Frank, that is a mouthful indeed. When you showed us your scarfing method, it took a while for me to get my head around it (hence the need for the calls). Once we ( on the bus) develop process in given areas, we use the process to build (or create if you please). Once practiced, process becomes habit or skill (like tying your shoes). This may indeed become like music (classic, jazz. rock) and is reflected in our work.

Godspeed Jerry. One day at a time.

Two options. Both work well. Both are for the trailer shop. Both keep (most) of the smoke off me and BOTH conserve fuel in good winds. Both have sliding back doors for long stock and both were built by me in the shop at home. Both have 6" (removable) stovepipe out the top. Your purchase of pipe can easily be used in ANY similar hood enclosure ( setting ON the forge or having legs to the floor or whatever). Your pipe purchase appears to be long enough to go through the roof (which is fine). There will be drawbacks with an enclosed hood but all in all, it works for me. The home shop hood draws straight up as well ( using 12" auger pipe through the roof).

10 blacksmiths, 10 answers. :P Sometimes I hacksaw, sometimes I hot cut. Bigger stuff, sometimes I use the chopsaw. Regardless, I heat bloody hot and fold one tine back. Forge the other by pointing first. I use the holes in the anvil for length references. One other thing, I use a piece of bar stock that has been ground on the end to drive into the crotch of the fork ( yes I have 1/4x1, 3/8x1 and 1/2 x1 to use). I call them radius tools and have written on them with a paint marker. They have holes drilled in them to hang form the table. I also have these in trailer shop box(es). These tools allow me to have a nice smooth transition from tine to tine. This action is of course done in the vise HOT. I have found that doing fork work at lower temps can cause problems (ok final slapping to even up is ok at lower temps sometimes). Will see if I can find and post a pic. Your fork looks very nice for a first time. Keep it up. I might add that when you drive the radius tool into the fork, you should use care. Slipping and driving a red (at least) hot sharp tine into your hand is distracting to say the least. Edit, the pic shows the smooth crotch on the fork (which is made from 3/4 COLD rolled and is about 4 feet long)

What you are dealing with is electricity. Wire size, fuse size, voltage, conductor length, voltage drop (to be specific on a few things but I am NOT an electrician). My advice would be to get a competent licensed electrician to inspect the setting. The internet is an interesting place. Advice gleaned here is fine but your home insurance (not to mention national and local laws) may be in conflict with any actions you may or may not take. Yeah, sounds like lawyer talk but you should know the league you are in before you make decisions. Ultimately, fire is the big thing but there are of course other personal health and machine life issues. Miller Thunderbolt is a good starter machine. Good leads, good connections.

This thread makes me want to grow my hair long, cut the soles out of my shoes. live in a tree and learn to play the flute. Before some of you think I'm finally over the edge, Porgy and Mutthead are in my past as well. The peace and tranquility of forge work will sometimes be the only thing that returns me to the proper frame of mind.

I use Norton belts on the shop grinder (2x48). I use 3m on the hand held (3x21). Have never had a belt separate at the joint.

Dittos my other thread post Frank.

As always Frank, thank you for the educational book links. Brain food is good.

Something tells me we will soon be seeing google links to lawyers on this thread ( forgive me but this is indeed serious stuff you are typing about ). The advice given from a google link is more than sad it is outrageous. Yeah, I'm havin a cookie right now.

Exceptional video. Thanks.

Yes I have indeed shaved with a straight razor (3 years). Last time I shaved was 1994. Used a new in box " Red Imp " for the last year. 2 years prior I used my grandpa's " Twin ". It was last used (prior to me) in 1946. Honing a razor is a skilled task. It won't take long for you to know if you have things right (tonight). Tomorrow morning the razor may be in different shape on the edge. They are finniky to say the least. I will say however that a shave with one will last. Strapping is one thing, honing is another. The old barbers that used them are almost gone. Nice work on your project. Hope you get it up and running.

Several years ago I made a table quite similar for some young folks starting out. The top was plate glass and the bottom shelf was flattened expanded. Your table is good work. MANY options available. Your work is solid.

First class work Beth. Thanks for the pic. First class.

Tell us more about your gas forge please.

I wish to second what Thomas, John and Timothy have typed. Here in the states, we have access to commercial firepots. Perhaps you will find them in the UK. I started forging roughly 25 years ago in a wood stove with a piece of rail for an anvil. As Timothy has stated perhaps the real issue is finding proper equipment. Please don't misunderstand me. I had to be shown my own self. Continue as you wish. These comments from me are just that. Comments. You will find folks here that have indeed experience and perhaps some of have a bit more than others. Please don't put me in group with the experts. I've torn up my share of stuff. I DO have a fair bit of experience. Good luck my friend. Keep us posted. By the way, I have a shop built forge in my shop. 3/16 plate with 2x2 square legs. This forge has a commercial firepod (Roger Lorrance) dropped in the space cut for it. Shop built tuyere and ash dump. Shop built airgate and commercial electric blower. I have shop built forges otherwise as well. Sometimes the thing is, you just need the right stuff to go along with what you have built. Coal and charcoal are my choices for solid fuel but I own gas forges too.

Frank, don't forget some Beech Nut tobacco juice and perhaps a piece or 2 of quid..... I might add that I bury stuff (deep) in a metal barrel full of oil dry and come back tomorrow. Good suggestions on the process here fellas, thanks. Local guy has an Oliver garden tractor with an RX-7 motor ( pulling tractor ).

Thank you indeed. Can't help but be proud that the manuscripts were written by a fella from Iowa State in Ames Iowa. Wartime video. Excellent detail of tools and skills.

I have a shop at home. I also have a trailer shop. There will be things I take to camp with me ( camp reads rondys, Civil War, Fairs etc) from the home shop. Some of this happens in Rubbermaid tool boxes. some of this happens in my home built boxes. Standard house siding (#115 if I recall correctly) for the sides, 3/4 boards for the ends (which are rectangular with an extended " A " top ). Between the tops on the ends is a piece of lumber for a handle. This particular box is roughly 30" long and I guess 8" deep. This makes this box a dump bin of sorts and it can indeed get heavy BUT it is mostly a period box (read butt joints and nails and a few screws). Hammers/tongs/other tools that need no problem location immediately are in the plastic boxes. These tools hang on the stand bu the anvil or get placed on a table. The shop built box contains all other tools (well most of them) that I may or may not need in a 2-4 day camp. I also have other boxes specifically for drills and other things like cutting (leather shears/fabric shears etc ). People expect me to be able to do about anything and I normally go loaded for bear. One specific box for tools for me is tough to comply with. A 5 day event like Old threshers requires a large selection.

This is one of my Canedy Otto blowers years ago in the shop right after I set the airgate up and the original power blower (which has been upgraded from this). The crank blower sat in this spot until I got tired of it and I moved it to storage. The fill level valve (lower right) is opened and oil (your choice, I use 30 wt non detergent )is added on the top until it just drips out the opened valve. Valve is closed. This valve in the picture is not original (as there was none) and I just went to town and found one that would work. The handle (original ) was gone so I simply drilled a hole on a piece of (likely) broom handle. These blowers are superior in my estimation although I have a few Champions too. I have a littermate to this blower in the trailer shop that has stood years in the rain and sunshine at rondys. The question was asked for a picture of an original handle. This is as close as I can get.

Frank, that indeed is better than the ingredients of a Big Mac. Like Mike says, brilliant. Thank you.

No doubt wood for me. I recall the older men (in my youth) liking fiberglass for standard hammers ( farm ) and sledges, splitting mauls. I have no problems with this thinking, I just prefer wood. Always have, always will.