metalmangeler

hello Deker I have a couple of the 90 lb hammers, they are a bit older than yours so they never had the switch to clamp mode, that was always just hold treadle down where cycle mode is hold part way down. anyhow the hammer should not be leaking air when tup is up one of mine does at this time, I am not really sure why I know some of the valveing needs to be replaced and I think that will help this problem in mine. this happened a few years ago and that time I needed a new air cylinder, I think I have a different problem now. It works as it is so I don't stress over it. there is a lot of slop in the paddle assembly on mine, this does not seem to be a big problem, though occationally you might need to adjust things. the throttle should be tighter than you describe I think, getting your foot off the treadle quickly and the throttle moving most of the way closed is what allows the tup to go up slowly rather than just slamming up. I believe the throttle is just a modified ball valve so if needed you should be able to replace it. you might want to buy Ron Kinyons power hammer plans I got a copy from Abana years ago , your hammer is not the same set up but they might help you to understand your hammer better. If you can find macbruce on here he made a couple clones I think and should be a very good source of info. I have not seen a post from him recently so hopefully he is ok and I have just not noticed as I am kind of sporodic here.

Tristan I think you sent out a list of steel that Mark wanted us to each have for the clinic, seems like some 3/8 round for chain and something for a hook etc. I am hoping you might post it here as well. Also it has occured to me that I did not return your bees wax after our last meeting, be sure to get some from me at this meeting to replace it.

I agree with Charles most seem to be left dominant. It is suprising how many owners do not seem to realize this.

The ones I use for blades are rectangle in foot print, with the dome offset toward the distal end of the blade so it helps to form the taper, the tool is narrow enough that I can work the edge of the blade with the dome near the center so it is not crushing the spine of the blade. I have not set up to make production runs of blades to be the same so having a compound bevel that is not constant is useful though probably not as effeicent as what Alan described for a true production run. My intent in commenting was to give an example of a use for a tool such as Ethan suggested not to really get into the specifics of the tools I use. These tools are as forged so not hardened and the dome does degrade fairly fast but they do not mar my top die.

Ethan what you are describing is sometimes called a fried egg tool. I use one with the dome offset to one end to help make and flatten tapering blades. As Allan notes it does want to make the steel banana. The blades are mostly forged pryor to this step.

If you guys still have the V blocks I handed out at the tong making class a couple of those would be nice to have on hand.

I'll be praying for both of you. Very difficult situation, I have had more exposure to mental illness than i wish. Personally i believe there should be more stigma attached to the things we have control of rather than those we don't. You have not gone down in my opinion in the least for having this battle, having the guts to talk about it causes my estimation of you to go up.

5/16 would be nice. I use lots of 1/4 but I have noticed when I let others use my tools that they often think they need to work on their grip while using tongs, so over size is maybe good.

I think I will be there. We will want some 5/8 or 3/4 round stock (coil spring or 4140) to make 3/4 inch tongs. I like 5/8 better, lazy I guess. I will hopefully bring some dies and a shoulder tool. should be pretty easy to make. What else do we need tool wise for the clinic? some rivets would be nice as well for the tongs.

I like H13 better it seems like I have better results with my low quality heat treatments. I think the tempering is more critical with the S7. They both work well for pritchels, they are both more forgiving when you let them get too hot then say a less costly 10xx steel.

I have never used the IK, if I were trying to get a new hammer that is what I would be working to buy. That said I think it will use more air than the blu hammer, I think the air cylinder is larger, I think that is a good thing. At least that is what I remember from past checking on these hammers. If you are stepping into the production mode which is the normal reason for buying a hammer then the best hammer for your purpose is the one to get, make it buy you a larger compressor, I would think that it will work on the small compressor well enough to improve out put to buy the next tool. On the other hand maybe you can buy 2 blu hammers for about the same price, that might be a really good thing as well, going from one hammer set up for one step to the next step in the same heat can speed things up. Really depends on what you are making. Combo dies have you working not in the center of the die this is hard on the machine and is a less effective blow. If it makes enough money to pay for a new machine by saving time it is good, IMO it will take quite awhile to have an impact on a quality machine ,normally it is IMO they are over used by those who do not know better. New hammer owners often only have the combo die set and they use it for everything. (they are cheaper than that 2nd hammer though).

Even air cooling a small part like a knife it may have hardened on you. Next time you are working after your forge has been used, totally heated, try to heat to critical and then leave in your forge to cool I am guessing you are using a gas forge if not then find a different method of slowing cooling. The other plan I would try is to just temper beyond hardness, such as tempering to say 700f.

If you use a die as in John's picture I would suggest making it with finer vein cuts. Just chisel cuts should work.

Since this is the knife section I guess that is the intent. I might think about using it for bolsters or guards. seems like a nice place for a pattern and would not need to be hard.

what is the steel?

I don't think the blacksmith gets sent there for that, just the quality of their work attomaticaly goes there with either situation.

I like the looks of the head, nice clean forging. The handle is prettier than any I do, I would not like the grain in that handle on my hammer.

Ask him to prove someone did not have an angle grinder in 1875.

Hi CJinAK google( where is arctic fires bronze ) and I think you will get a map and street address. I just did. Frozenforge pretty cool looking forge, I think it will work, for this project.

I think you are on a pretty good web site to find out about knives, it claims to have 29000 posts in just this part of the knife section. I would recommend you look at the posts about a WIP in particular the ones put up by someone who is not making their first knife. also look at the knife making lessons. I think a specific question would get a better answer, such as, which wood works best for knife handles if I don't want to stabilize it. You may need to do some reading to know what the questions that you have are.

So is the OP for real? "How do I make blades unrelated to forging and grinding?" On a forging site. "Anyone care to name a particular book or website." Maybe IFI would be a starting place. I try not to be a difficult person on the web. BUT.............

Frosty I have a flat bick for my shop kholswa that might fit, I will try to remember to put it in.

Frosty; I am planning to use my smaller anvil, because I want to use a flat bick. If you have one or a bridge for your Soderfors that is the important bottom tool in my book, though a selection of swedges might be handy. I am planning to use Pat's forge, unless I hear from him that I can't. If people want to jump in and try their hand at this then a few extra anvils would be nice. I am planning on using 1/4 x 1 and 1/4 x 2 just to keep everything fairly simple. New axe Maker; I think just come, if you want to bid on what ever we might have to benefit Pat's propane bill bring a little coin.

Your question was answered as far as it being a struck tool, other than the flatter it looks like your top tools are actually swedges. Hopefully they match the bottom swedges, even if not I would far rather get for cheap top swedges than bottom ones or fullers as they are more difficult to make, at least with my limited tools.

I will be doing a hinge making demo at Pat's on Friday the 15th starting at 7:00 pm planning to end at 9:00 this should be late enough that those working in Anc. can come if you want. I plan to make a strap hinge or more than one and if we are moving along others can work on this as well. There are some tricks that make hinge making less work than the way I started, I will show how to use these. If you think you want to make hinges in your future I think you should come, if you have made a few it still might be a good thing. If you have made thousands come and take over so I can improve. I am not charging, I don't think Pat is either, it would be good to collect a little I will bring something to sell or auction, for Pat's fuel. Mark