metalmangeler

I sometimes use center fire brass, prefire the primers by heat under a plate so they do not fly into an eye, then seat them like for reloading. You can fire .22 brass with heat also, then you do not end up with the dent in the rim, pull the bullet first of course and set up so they don't end up in your eye.

Very creative, I like these and your DNA knife.

Their are people up there they have not really organized, I think Brian is still in North Pole. Frosty likely knows. I will PM you some other names.

Frosty I bring a different forge to the fair. Mike I am sure you are right regarding burner design, and the forge body design. That said the OP has this forge now, I think it is a workable tool. Mine would get to sparking heat, with a new liner, likely needing more fuel than other models. the reason I would consider another has to do with access and perhaps famililarity I am used to a tin llizzy.

I bought a Forgemaster that I have used for over 20 years, a lot of things have improved since then, I still use my Forgemaster, (it is paid for) when I bought it they had a better reputation than NC forges. The floor of the Forge Master is set up to create a swirl. It does become chipped after awhile and then is less effective. I have been thinking I might get a new forge, I have not ruled out the Forgemaster. Thought I might add this to give a different perspective, I do not think it is a terrible forge, there have been a lot of days it has put out pretty substancial amounts of forgings.

I like it....

I would think burning on horse shoes would put off similar fumes, normally done outside sometimes lots of smoke, death is not usually the result. Esther thinks it smells good I guess one of those familiar childhood smells. Everyone else would rather avoid the smell.

I buy most of mine from Weld Air in Wasilla or Greatland Welding, I think you might try Alaska Steel. Also for scrap try some of the auto scrap yards, ask about BROKEN axles or springs as you don't want to buy scrap at part replacement prices.

I use dies for making most of my leaves these are open dies on the power hammer. much different than what you have in the spring swedge, that said I think you are on the right track not inserting it to much, another thought you should be able to form slightly different leaves based on how far your blank is set into the dies. Do you have a veining die also? You can make one by flattening the correct size stock say 1/2 round then veining that at full width then drive that down into a hot block mild will work if it does not need to last too long and will be easier to make than one from better stock.

I am often suprised here by how hard people are on someone attempting to improve HIS tool. might have been a mistake maybe not, use it keep your eyes open for another in better shape. hopefully your new anvil since it is soft will help you develope hammer control. With your next one might be a good idea to seek advice before modifications, but it is your tool you get to make the decisions.

Somewhere I saw that there might not be a demo planned, I will bring stuff to make a set hammer.

I guess if it is time to chime in regarding rounding edges, the anvil came as you stated with a ground bevel on the edges. I had a new anvil come that way about 30 years ago, this will safe the edges somewhat from chipping. It will also act as a somewhat as a rounded edge. I have done a fair amount of grinding on my anvils, some has paid off well, one bit was a mistake, remember it is a tool modify it if it is a good modification, but as Glenn said be sure it is a modification you expect to need long term. I would use it as it is for a year or so then go slow on those permanent changes.

If you go with a 10" long 4" dia. cylinder and run the normal 100# psi that some of the other utillity hammers are running on you will need a larger compressor. With the pivot design you should be able to get 10" stroke with a shorter cylinder. Another way of looking at your anvil is that lead does not rebound like solid steel. should be quiet though.

An over built hammer is not going to have an anvil made in a manner that is likely to work as independant parts rather than one homogenous piece. depending on the length of stroke of your 4" cylinder you could be using a lot of air. The idea of using the pivoting beam with the air could be really good if your cylinders have a short stroke. Many of the utility style air hammers this size seem to have about a 10" stroke. Ideal would depend on variables you have not given us. you will want to be able to get the tooling you plan to use between the dies and have enough space to get a good blow. Top and bottom dies do not need to be the same weight, I have quite a few that do not match at all, by design. My anvil does not match my hammer either. I would recommend a die system that is easy to change so you can develope tooling to really get the most out of your tool, many people never go there but you may want that option. Hopefully your hammer works really well from the start, if not then it will be like most starting projects and you will likely improve it.

What I am wondering is why none of the single guys here are asking about whether your wife has any sisters. Nice anvil, I would recommend useing soft hammers if you have a tendency to miss if you have good hammer control then carry on.

You can take a block of steel and radius the edges and then weld on a stem. It does not nee dto be on the bottom just so you can stablize it in your hardy hole. This will give you some rounded edges, and you can make a variety to see what works best for you with out worrying about the new anvil.

I agree with Twistedcustoms you made an item that looks to me like it should work, that is blacksmithing. As you make more the quality will likely improve, expecting to make really nice tongs with out making tongs is not likely a reality. There are of course some really skilled smiths who do not make their tongs, they feel their time is better spent working on projects they make more money on they might be wright or wrong, I expect some are each. Good job going in and getting a pair done, the next pair will likely be easier. Oh an improvement could be to ease the corner or use a less sharp corner in making the transition from jaw to boss.

I talked to Pat he said the meeting is at his place on the 25. This is where I normally send people who I come across, it would be nice if those in the know would put up this information. Mark

i was thinking there is a meeting in March, I am wondering when and where. Mark

If you round the tip I would expect it would work well for opening up an animal with out cutting the gut. Might be too specialized to carry far but still seems useful to me. IF it is very small would work well for skinning out bear toenails also.

I saw you had posted so I looked through this thread again, I am wondering if maybe there was a reason for the notches in the rings on the trap knife handle. Seems like if this was a common part of the knife it likely served a purpose. might have helped with fleshing or if it was sharp maybe as a bone saw. It would be nice to get a real upclose look at some originals.

Looks like it has been awhile since this was current, most people buy their linseed oil boiled, this is the kind that dries and should give you a good finish. We do not know if yours might have been boiled but it should say on the label. If you boil it yourself you need to be careful not to burn your place down, and what you breath.

try Sat the 21

Hello Captian you are welcome to come, perhaps a regular meeting would be better but then there is no time like the present. look up Arctic Fires Bronze this is Pat's business I will PM you his phone number then he can give you his address as I do not know the street number.

Hope to see you there Birdman, I have difficulty remembering faces so until I have seen you a lot I likely will not recognize or remember you. Please do not let this offend you, I really have a problem in this area, just want to warn you. It sounds like your anvil should work good enough until such time as you decide to make or buy something else. I plan to bring a home made rail anvil, not nearly as good as I imagine yours to be just as an example of a cheap option. I don't usually use that anvil as I have other better tools, when I made it I had better tools. I know Barney Anderson's father (I cann't remember his name) he was the blacksmith for the Matanuska colony made a rail anvil that I saw, really nice, he of course at the time he made it had better anvils. Sometimes a light or extra tool is the cats meow. Another thought Birdman the purpose of this class is specifically for people like yourself. Willing to make tooling and starting out. So certainly we want you and those in your situation there. Mark