GoodThing Factory Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 I've started what I was planning on being a hunting knife but the shape I've got doesn't look much like any hunting knives I've seen. In fact, I haven't seen any images online of knives with this shape with - point curved downward. My question ... am I just making an upside down knife or does this blade fit into a "category"? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 I don't make blades, but that could be any number of styles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlasterJoe Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Sheepsfoot. It's one of my favorite blade on my blaster multi tool. You could flatten out the curve a little on the cutting edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubalcain2 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 it would definitely not work for a hunting knife. it would be practically impossible to skin a deer or any other animal with a knife like that. take it from one who has skinned manny a critter. the only thing that knife would get you is a mess. i would say it definitely leans toward more of a pruning knife direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticallySharp Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Make a drop point. Great utility and hunting blade style. Hammer what you think is the edge. The point of the top of the knife will be fromedthis large knife was made this way. Makes a greatt hunter with a 3.78" blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 A little more downward curve and sharpen it up makes a "carpet" knife for cutting heavy fabric. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodThing Factory Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 41 minutes ago, Tubalcain2 said: it would definitely not work for a hunting knife. it would be practically impossible to skin a deer or any other animal with a knife like that. take it from one who has skinned manny a critter. the only thing that knife would get you is a mess. i would say it definitely leans toward more of a pruning knife direction. thanks .. i took a look and yea what i'm making is definitely looks like a pruner - not something i'll get much use form - even thought i like the shape it's prob time to rework it back into more of a tradition hunting knife 6 minutes ago, Frosty said: A little more downward curve and sharpen it up makes a "carpet" knife for cutting heavy fabric. Frosty The Lucky. Frosty to the rescue! That's where I've seen this shaped blade before. Not what I was going for but thats what I've got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 How'd you do that? Most people's first forged blades are the exact opposite shape, because they didn't compensate for the natural curve that the bevel creates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwistedCustoms Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Look up images of "karambit", pruning knives, linolium knives, carpet knives. It isn't quite any of those but looking at images may give you design ideas. I made a matching pair of karambit knives about a year ago and grinding a clean bevel on the inside of a tight arc was tedious! Go ahead and handle your knife and post more photos! It may not conform to an established design closely enough to name it a this or that but it doesn't have to. Make yourself a nice drop point for skinning and use that one for utility work. Also look at images of cable splicers knife Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalmangeler Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 If you round the tip I would expect it would work well for opening up an animal with out cutting the gut. Might be too specialized to carry far but still seems useful to me. IF it is very small would work well for skinning out bear toenails also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodThing Factory Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 12 hours ago, C-1ToolSteel said: How'd you do that? Most people's first forged blades are the exact opposite shape, because they didn't compensate for the natural curve that the bevel creates. I'm not 100% sure what you're asking since I haven't ground in a bevel yet but to create the downward curve i forged the top wth a rounding hammer and the used the horn to shape the point. also, worth noting - prob obvious - i did some grinding as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Oh, I didn't realize that you haven't beveled it yet. What I was talking about is how when you hammer a bevel, a straight blade naturally curves to more of a skinner shape. To make a drop point, you make a template that looks like more of a sheep's foot shape. If you hammer a bevel on the knife that you are working on, it should turn into a pretty good drop point shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 If you hammer in the bevel, rather than grind it, you might be able to curve it back the other way somewhat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaperPatched Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 It looks like a good start to a patch knife for a muzzle loader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 When you hammer in a bevel, the side you are hammering on gets longer while the back remains much the same length; so the blade curves away from the bevel side. This is a problem for many people; luckily it can be easily dealt with by several methods: one is to pre bend it the other way---towards the bevel side so that when you hammer out the bevel it straightens; the second way is to take the hot blade and set it bevel side up on the anvil and tap the edge so that the back moves down till it touches the anvils face---you wouldn't think this would work but it does! (best done multiple times as you work the bevel that one major time at the very end!) Of course you can do a combination of both methods... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sk Bjorn Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 If you forge Finnish the tapper on your edge this may stretch out the blade to give you a better line or if you don't have the thickness to do that heat thru and correct the curve by hitting on top side off anvil and have the tip of the edge on ànvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodThing Factory Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 really appreciate the the advice and input from all of you - thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 On 2/27/2017 at 5:35 PM, PaperPatched said: It looks like a good start to a patch knife for a muzzle loader. My thought exactly would need an antler handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Poet Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 On 2/27/2017 at 3:44 PM, ThomasPowers said: the second way is to take the hot blade and set it bevel side up on the anvil and tap the edge so that the back moves down till it touches the anvils face---you wouldn't think this would work but it does! (best done multiple times as you work the bevel that one major time at the very end!) Of course you can do a combination of both methods... I'd suggest using wooden hammer for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 36 years so far and no problems using a steel faced hammer doing it, Wood should work as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyfelwr Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 It looks like a blade preform for sure. It still looks plenty thick enough to forge the bevels in. Question though, what type of handle/guard are you going for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Poet Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 On 3/4/2017 at 7:31 PM, ThomasPowers said: 36 years so far and no problems using a steel faced hammer doing it, Wood should work as well. It can help prevent the edge from deforming if you're making thin knives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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