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Showing results for tags '5160'.
Found 8 results
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Hi all , greetings from Argentina. I been doing some knives with 5160 and notice they're not able to hold a good edge. I believe it is because it's not a really hard steel , plus I have been tempering to straw yellow (I temper by color) . So the thing is I will be quenching a kitchen knife for my father tomorrow and I want to try not to temper (the edge at least) . The question is I'm I loosing some mechanical benefit besides toughness?
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Lavender horse bowie and autumn kitchen knife Waterjet and then forged 5160 spring steel with integral guard. Autumn leaves and lavender cast into the handle window. Also part of the series is a ram and boar's head, so keep an eye out for those coming up soon Let me know what yall think, Theo
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This has been a prototype I've been developing for a while and am happy to finally show off! Waterjet cut then forged 5160 blade with integral guard. Handle window contains dried autumn leaves suspended in alumilite. Next I'll be working on different versions of this with various blade styles and handle materials ranging from crushed egg shells to solid cocobolo to antler. Leme know what yall think! -
Been dark for a while and I missed the forum have been busy in the meantime though! So this is the second full blade i have completed, figured id share it and see if i can get some constructive criticism. I will suspend 'if you dont have anything nice, dont say anything at all' for this purpose, im already pretty keenly aware of most of the flaws. I was more concerned with actually completing the project and the larger skill concepts, less so with spending hours and hours sanding. The blade was forged during a California Blacksmith Association anual class/event/sub-conference called W
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Thought I would share a few pics of the latest blade I finished. It is hand forged 5160 steel. It is 11 1/2" total length. Blade is 6" long and 2" wide. About 5/32 thick. Handle is 5 1/2" long. Knife was done all by hand. Forged, draw filed, hand sanded up to 2500 grit. I left a few forging marks in the blade to give it a little character. It has a convex cutting edge that cuts really good. Handle is stabilized bone scales pinned with 3/32 304 SS pins. It has black vulcanized liners. Bone scales hand rubbed down to 1000 grit for a real smooth finish. Sheath is 6/7 oz leather. Pouch
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So this is my sixth knife, It was conceptualized as a cutting competition chopper, but I got it a little too thin for my comfort, so it was given new life as a butcher type kitchen knife. This is the first knife I've done plunge lines on, and they're a pain. Next time I'll cut them in before the final grind. Other than those scratches around my plunge lines, this knife is a workhorse, not a shelf queen, so I stuck with a hand rubbed 400g finish, followed by the ol' nonwoven pad. What do you think?
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I was wondering if any of you know of supplier that sells 5160-alloy steel, I have been looking online for the last few weeks and cannot find a supplier. The local steel contractor can get it but it would twice as much because of shipping from dealer to dealer; also I know that many truck springs are made from 5160, however some are not. So any help in finding an online supplier who sells 5160 would be awesome, or a similar alloy with similar characteristics would be great as well. Thanks
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This is actually my first forge project I've ever done. It is a hatchet made from a 5160 Leaf Spring. With my current tools, I couldn't really obtain a very smooth forge finish, so please excuse its roughness. I also understand that because the blade is not directly center with the eye, that there will be balance issues. Since I have such little experience, I did not want to attempt a forge weld. Feel free to critique. I am very close to being ready to heat treat it, but I have some questions. First, I'll list my currently available quenchants. I have water, brine solution, dish soap sol
