Presses

there's this cherry deal on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/WATERBURY-FARREL-Screw-Press-Fly-Press-20-TON-/150487543488?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2309c1aec0 i have a smaller Farrel fly press, and think highly of it . Now.. here's it's big brother !!

Finally got round to getting my Denbigh #3 up off the floor and onto a stand. Result! At the moment it's up against my Sweeney & Blocksidge press, but eventually they'll both have a bit more wing room. They're both results of bargain hunting, the Denbigh cost me £41 and the S&B £31. The Denbigh will easily fold (90 degree bend) 1 x 1/4" bar at a dullish cherry, and the S&B will do that stone cold. I'm experimenting with punching. If anyone's interested in old steam engines I'll add the story of the S&B press.

I'd like to use an air/hyd jack for cold forming bowls. Figured a foot pedal would be useful. But don't want to have turn the t-handle valve open and closed each stroke. Is there a work around for this so I can hold the work piece with both hands while operating with the foot switch? THX Keith

I have been debating getting a fly press or Power Hammer for the shop. Basically I want to get one because working with large steel has become rather a chore manually without a press. I have been pounding old jackhammer bits into hardie shafts and once you get them swaged, they work awesome. However, its multiple heats and a massive amount of work to do it by hand especially with the small anvil I have. Now I thought about a fly press because my neighbors complain about the pounding which means I cant forge later at night and often that is the only time I get to swing a bit away from family duties. I investigated shooting the neighbors as a possibility but the stupid b…

Saw this today. Looks like he is wanting scrap value, which was around $350 a ton last week for clean mild steel plate. I have little experience with these so info on make and other specs would be appreciated. I can see a 34 on the front and the counter weight could be missing. It's a 8-9 hour drive each way from my place. Thanks for your time, Jason. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=333390178

I was drooling over a fly press and I got to thinking about the mechanism and the power that the press generates. As I understand it a fly press generates most of its force via inertia rather than mechanical advantage of the press. As I researched this a bit more I found a site by a guy named Ron Reil on the fly press. On the bottom of that page he has a press that he picked up but is based off of mechanical advantage rather than inertia. He said it can generate over 100 tons of force which I thought was incredible at first. Then I got to thinking that with the right combination of basic machines (levers, screws, etc) why not? The only problem, I would think, would be to …

I am planning to build a hydraulic press possibly using my tractors live hydraulics for the power supply. According to Kubota, my nominal 40 HP tractor can supply 20 HP hydraulic power at 2850 PSI. The tractor has a set of quick disconnect fittings where the press can be connected. However all the external lines on the tractor are ½ inch diameter, which seems a bit small for much flow and subsequent slow piston movement? The cylinder I am planning to use is 7 inches outside diameter and has a stroke of about 12 inches. I am wondering if others have tried to use the tractors “live hydraulics” to run a press. To keep the supply and return lines short, I also wonder the…

So it isn't new but it is new to me. I picked up an arbor press today for 26.50 from a junk shop. The tin plate on it says Phase II Arbor press and then a stock number. The only thing it is missing is a handle. Everything is in great condition. No rust on it and all the parts move freely. Here is a link that has a picture of it. So is it a 2 ton press? And do you guys think it was a good deal?

Does anybody have any plans for an "H" frame hydraulic forge? Actual plans that I can buy or copy. What I am looking for is what size steel components are recommended and of course, foot controlled valve system for about a 40 to 70 ton press. Thanks … Mike…. www.designsiniron.com

Got my press running at 6 pm today so no time to try it so am excited for first thing tomorrow. It is a 75 ton friction press so should be fun. Had to rebuild the ram. Someone dropped a tool out of it and beat it pretty good. Got it refaced and machined the hole out to 1 5/8" clean so will be fun tomorrow. Also there is 4 MM of play between the screw and nut. Can it be adjusted or do I work it until it is wore out and get a new one? Gonna be fun.

i would really like to see one of these in action . i have never seen one in person , but a video would do nicely.

Found this at an auction, have no more info than this pic, starting my google search for specs. Looking for anyone's 2cents on what it use range would be~

This is my version of a mini hydraulic forging press first introduced in Don Fogg's Bladesmith Forum by T.A. Toler. T.A. had a wonderful idea and several of us have built various take offs on his original concept. It's motivated by a Harbor Freight 20 ton air over hydraulic jack. Does a bang up job of smashing billets of pattern welded steel, as long as you keep the size within reason. My first effort was an 11 layer billet of 1/8" x 1&1/4" x 5" 1084 and .058 15n20. The machine easily handled the 1+" billet so I could probably get away with 13 or maybe 15 layers. Sure beats swinging a heavy hammer all to pieces!

I have been playing with my hydraulic press these last few days and trying to get some of the kinks worked out.. I can tell already Im going to have to build another one someday Anyway today I worked on a lower table and wanted to see if I could punch a pretty big hole.. I had some 1 5/8 4140 bar so I made a 1 5/8 punch and then a separate drift.... Did a pretty fair job for a first go... The bar is 1 3/4 thick and 2 1/2" wide.... With a slightly off center 1 5/8 hole Anyway I was just wondering how big of hole you might have punched and in what kind of material? this machine is a 40 ton and I think I might get a 2" hole through 2" bar but it would tak…

Yesterday or Friday the 8th a fly press showed up at HGR, and on Saturday morning I picked it up. So now I will not be making a press I will just be making dies instead. I made the stand today with steel I had, and it is solid, stable, and level. Thanks for the help guys here are some pix...

Will a ball screw work for a fly press or will it blow apart? I found a few that are the size I am looking for I just am unsure if they will last. Also am I shooting for 2" per revolution for a screw? The ball screw I found traveled about 1.250" per revolution. Thank you for your help...

http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/sub/product_detail.aspx?id=90-439-015&searchtable=1&sortExpression=&SortASC=&pageSize=50&currentPageIndex=0&searchNAP=

I want to buy a press for forging. I am thinking of a getting friction screw press. These seem hard to come by. I am open to hydraulic presses as well. I would like to get the most flexible machine. Any opinions. I currently have a wimpy powered hydraulic press putting out about 10 tons it is useful even at that power. thanks Tim

I found this flypress at a local used machinery place. It's a Brown & Boggs. The sales guy says this thing weighs 2000-2500 lbs. Personally, just looking at the picture, I don't think it could possibly weigh that much. They're asking $950, which is apparently negotiable. Anyone familiar with this press? If it's as big as they say it is, it's way to big for my shop.

My press is intended for all kinds of forging, but the primary job I wanted it built for was to punch eyes in hand tool heads like hammers and axes. I've been working with it a while and just do not have it where it will do quite what I need it to. My problem is that whenever I go to punch a hole, I end up squishing the thickness of the metal down. It doesn't seem to matter whether the tool is blunt on the end or sharp. If I make it too sharp, it deforms quickly, even if made from H13. After reading the David Hyde article Grant kindly supplied, I have two theories on solving this: 1.) Use the smaller, quicker cylinder on the press and work it a little at a time f…

Ok, So its a long process lots to learn and do. I have found some great remnants that I can turn into 2 presses for what I thought 1 would cost. I have 2 different jobs, one for each press. I'm thinking about tooling and how to set it up. 1 press will be only for punchin holes. I would like to have quick change capabilities so if I wanted to slit and drift one piece, bit changing would be a mater of seconds. What have you guys found that is easy to work with? I learn better by seeing than reading so pictures if you have them Thanks!

Hi Guys..... I'm new to this forum. Mostly I build live steam engines. But recently acquired a mystery ironworker at auction. Can anyone help me identify the make and model from the attached photo. I looks like its never been used and likely some Asian import. It tiny and looks to be 20 to 25 ton capacity. It has a nice Lesson 3hp 3 phase motor. I got it from a Jr. College Auction in Tacoma, WA Thanks, Steve

Are northern tools shop presses any good?

Sorry for my English text was done by google translator hehehehehe ............... 'm from Brazil and work as cutler guasqueiro'm new in the forum and would like to build a hydraulic press have some pictures of some more press still have many doubts that anyone will have a hydraulic press project from beginning to end showing all parts to engine? Thanks for helping me I hope you in my site's ORKUT http://www.orkut.com.br/Main # Profile? rl = ls & uid = 4987696730192551897 MY BLOG http://rodrigoguasqueiro.blogspot.com MY SITE http://rodrigoguasqueiro.freetzi.com/

I've started construction of a hydraulic forging press of about 24 ton.......5" dual action cylinder, 11 gpm pump, 5 hp 220v motor. Control valve is a Prince 4 way center open that I'll attach to foot pedals instead of the regular handle for operation. 10 gallon oil reservoir tank has a 10 micron suction filter to be inside and an outside return line filter. A pressure gauge attaches to the control valve on the high pressure input side from the pump. High pressure hoses, 1/2", connect the control valve to the two in ports on the cylinder and the valve to the pump. Low pressure hoses connect the tank to the suction side of the pump and the out port of the valve to the tank…