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Another Hydraulic Forging Press

Featured Replies

  • Author

Started a new hammer tonight, 1 3/4 inch square bar of 1060. Made a punching die for the press to make the eye, a stripper clamp to hold the workpiece to the press, and went to work. The press punched completely through the bar in 2 seconds....and stuck! The return stroke tore up the stripper clamp without removing the punch from the workpiece which tore up the punch die. All of which was ok as the punch went through crooked and the whole gizmo was gonna have to be rebuilt any how. But the press made a big hole real quick and real easy...:)

Richard - did you use any punch lube/coal dust? presses are slow (well I shouldn't say slow) but they can be deciving how long the punch is actually in the hot metal while it's cooling around the punch. Hey at least your having fun already and thats a good thing LOL - JK

Edited by jeremy k

looks like your having fun with your new toy. please keep us updated on your punch and die adventure.

  • 9 months later...

Started a new hammer tonight, 1 3/4 inch square bar of 1060. Made a punching die for the press to make the eye, a stripper clamp to hold the workpiece to the press, and went to work. The press punched completely through the bar in 2 seconds....and stuck! The return stroke tore up the stripper clamp without removing the punch from the workpiece which tore up the punch die. All of which was ok as the punch went through crooked and the whole gizmo was gonna have to be rebuilt any how. But the press made a big hole real quick and real easy...:)


just curious, did it go crooked or at an angle because of the small side plates allowed movement or have those done well to keep it centered.
  • Author

the side plates need to be larger, but they work to keep the die in line front to rear. Problem is, with one cylinder the whole table will rock from side to side as it pivots on the cylinder pin. I'm thinking to fix that by adding some angle iron for better guides.


the side plates need to be larger, but they work to keep the die in line front to rear. Problem is, with one cylinder the whole table will rock from side to side as it pivots on the cylinder pin. I'm thinking to fix that by adding some angle iron for better guides.


I'm having issues with getting my press to punch eyes they way I need them to be, and the problem is not power! I'd be very interested to see pictures of your eye-punching setup, even the torn-up one and certainly the next go at it.

Thanks, Grant, that's a good article. The swiveling stripper plate is a good idea. My big problem, though, is the metal is squishing down too much when I try to punch. Not trying to thread hijack, but do you think perhaps I need to try it on my small, quick cylinder and work it a little at a time? Or set up to punch from both sides simultaneously?


Thanks, Grant, that's a good article. The swiveling stripper plate is a good idea. My big problem, though, is the metal is squishing down too much when I try to punch. Not trying to thread hijack, but do you think perhaps I need to try it on my small, quick cylinder and work it a little at a time? Or set up to punch from both sides simultaneously?



Sounds like you`re compressing the metal rather than cutting it.I`d look at the edge configuration of the slitting/punching tool.

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