First projects

[Arkans]

I have been giving a lot of thought to what my first projects should be.  Watching YouTube, and even on here, you come across a lot of cool projects, but one of the first things I have noticed is that most of those projects the first thing the smith does is reach for a tool.  They are reaching for a bolster, a hardie tool of some kind, bending jigs, sweg blocks, tongs, drifts, punches, river blocks, and the list goes on forever.
 

So, after watching god knows how many videos, I think I know where I need to start my blacksmithing journey.  I need to make the tools, ultimately, these will help me develop skills, teach me how to draw out my metal, to shape, and should help me with basic skills.  
 

Now my question is, what tools do you most use at the forge.  Please don't say hammer an anvil, that's a given, and forging a hammer requires a punch, hammer eye drift, bolsters if you want it to look fancy, and oh yeah a hammer to forge it with, and forging an anvil is a bit beyond beginner skill. But seriously as a beginners project.  Would forging regularly used tools be beneficial to a new smith? Would this help him or her build needed skills? And other than those I listed, what would you suggest?

[Glenn]

Tongs that properly fit the work being used, a heavy work table, post vise, machinist vise, and hand held angle grinder.  One good measuring device and marker.  One because sometimes rulers do not agree with each other, and you should cut with the ruler you measure with.  The rest can be made or acquired as the projects call for different tools or tooling.

[Will Brouwers]

I would first suggest looking at blacksmithing books, because they have some good beginner projects.

The first thing I made as a beginner was an S hook. All you need for that, besides the assumed hammer, tongs, anvil and forge, would be a post vise and a twisting wrench, assuming you want a twist in the middle. If not, you can do it all without any other tools. However, as I write this, it would be good to have a bristle brush, not those cheap welding ones, and some kind of finish material-beeswax, paint, oil, etc. 

[JHCC]

Learning to make your own punches and chisels is really important, and they make a lot of other projects possible.

[TWISTEDWILLOW]

after forging a few s hooks

The First tools I would forge for a solid fuel forge like your wanting to use

would be a coal rake, fire poker, and handle for a watering can,

you will want the s hooks to hang these tools on the forge,

the coal rake you will be using constantly 

the watering stick you will want to control your fire so you don’t burn up a lot of fuel unnecessarily 

these will teach you some basic forging skills and give you the tools to learn fire management with,

Also making all these doesn’t require anything but a hammer anvil and something to cut with,

you don’t even need tongs unless you have some to start with, because you can make these fire tools from longer stock

[Simian]

As a relative beginner myself, the best advice was from a youtube video by Alex Steele; Make 50 leaves. 

It teaches you basic hammer control, and different techniques to move metal just on the anvil. They're quick to make and you'll see your skill progress rapidly. You only need a hammer, anvil, forge, and a length of steel and a pair of pliers (regular everyday pliers). 

Tongs are a good starter project, but not if you've never forged anything ever before. Also, S hooks and scrolls.  

 

I'd argue that an equally essential tool is the Angle grinder. If you do not have one, do not pass go, do not collect $200...

[Frosty]

Buy a 2 lb. "drill hammer," they are heavy enough to do serious work and have a shorter handle so control is easier. The head is smooth faced on both sides similar to a single jack sledge. They are light enough to not cause fatigue nor do joint damage quickly. 

find some coil spring with wire around 5/8" dia. You can cut it with a cut off wheel in an angle grinder or hot with a chisel. Hit yard, garage, estate, etc. sales and pick up chisels, punches, allan wrenches, pry bars, etc. they make excellent stock for making things. I start guys out making a hot chisel from coil spring. I've acquired a good pile of old coil springs and torch cut them about 1 full or 1 1/2 coil lengths for stock and straightened them out which is good beginner practice. Straightening steel without filling it with hammer marks is a good skill to add to your mental tool kit.

With a decent length of coil spring wire you won't need tongs, especially using a coal forge. Forge the end to a chisel shape, just copy a garage sale chisel but let it spread wide and the edge assume a curve like an axe edge, this REALLY improves how they work. A long thin taper is a hot chisel and a short more obtuse taper say 30* is a cold chisel. Cutting HOT steel requires less strength from the chisel and thin cuts faster, the less time your chisel spends in HOT steel the better. Make sense? If you'd like you can forge the shaft into a hex or octagon, it's not necessary but can be handy. Last cut it from the parent bar just a LITTLE longer than you want for the finished chisel I like my hot chisels longer than cold because I'm holding them over hot steel and prefer not to feel more heat than necessary.

Anyway once cut, it's time to hit the grinder, hopefully a bench grinder but a disk grinder will do in a pinch. Clean up and sharpen the blade, do NOT push against the grinder, always grind with gentle pressure you'll burn fewer blades and wear our fewer wheels, blades and belts. grind the struck end square to the shaft and round the end a little, "dome it" this will make it easier to strike squarely and will prolong the useful life before you need to dress it. NEVER use a struck tool with a mushroomed end, they can chip and send dangerous bits of sharp jagged steel flying. The CRACK you hear isn't the steel breaking, it's the chip briefly exceeding the speed of sound.

Forging a punch is similar but drawing the point is best done using the SOR method, that's Square, Octagonal, Round. Draw the taper square, just turn your hand 90* every couple blows. Your wrist makes this turn naturally, Thumb up then knuckles up (palm down) and back. No need to turn the piece all the way around, the hammer and anvil are forging both sides with every blow. 

If it wants to make an upwards curve you're holding the stock too high and it's bending on the anvil. You want to raise your holding hand a LITTLE so the taper lays flat on the anvil but it's easy to lift too high. Watch for the curve. 

Once you get the taper about where you want it strike on the diagonal and make it an Octagon. Once it's even start rotating the punch and planishing it to round. Do this at a lower temperature but not below red and use light blows. 

Once it's round and smooth a little time on the grinder to dress the punch end form the struck end and it's done.

Heat treatment of all these tools should be done as soon as you're finished forging, before grinding actually. Normalize them by bringing them to non-magnetic temp and letting them air cool or you can do a full anneal by wrapping them in Kaowool or burying them in lime or perlite to cool over night. This will reduce the stress from forging and multiple heat cycles. Next bring them to critical (non-magnetic) temp and quench in warm oil. 140f canola oil works well, I get mine from the deli counter at local market, they change fryer oil daily. If you go to a doughnut shop the oil will make your shop smell like a bakery. 

After quenching temper. Shine the tool up so you can see the temper colors. I pass the struck end past my forge opening slowing down as it approaches blue and watch for the edge of the blade to reach pale straw then chill it in cool water. This is more important for cold chisels and punches, hot chisels and punches will be driven through HOT steel and WILL lose their temper on the edges but that's just how it is, do NOT worry about it, it WILL happen.

Last tool you'll want is a chisel plate to lay on your anvil's face so you can cut with your chisel without damaging the anvil or chisel. A piece of 1/2" mild works nicely, the chisel can cut into it and not be damaged. A bolster is the same kind of saddle tool but has holes so you can drive the slug out of punched holes. You can drill or punch the holes as you like but make a few sizes to match the holes you wish to punch or get close.

Those are the basics. There are more but these will get you up and working. This is where I start folks. Tongs tend to be a more intermediate project and require consistency doing basic processes, drawing, shouldering, punching, etc. They're not advanced processes but you need to have them down reasonably well.

Frosty The Lucky.

[George N. M.]

I'll just add a suggestion to Frosty's instructions about chisels.  When you are drawing out the end of the chisel carry that plane up into the body of the chisel so that when you are holding it you are holding 2 parallel surfaces that are parallel to the cutting edge.  This helps keep the edge oriented the way you want in use.  If the shaft of the chisel is round it is easy to have the edge wander a bit in use.  This is one of the reasons that commercial chisels have a hexagonal cross section, there are faces parallel to the edge.  It's a small thing but it really helps when using a chisel and saves a bit of time because you don't have to look carefully to make sure the edge is oriented how you want it.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

[Arkans]

Loving all this advice! Thank you all!

[Arkans]

I wrote the loving all the advice comment with a ton of thoughts running through my head, and not much time to actually respond since i was at work and my break was ending, so i couldn't write everything i was thinking.  So here is the long version, I am loving all this advice.  I have learned each project requires a new seat of tools, some are simple and other more complex, but starting with the simple basics, you can make the more complex tools as you go.  the more i watch video's on blacksmithing the more my mind fills with ideas.

Hate to repeat my self but i love it all, it keeps my mind engaged, will keep my body active and keep me busy.  now if i could just win the lottery and build my dream set up (watching youtube you see some amazing shops)   But, even with the forge i am buying this Friday, I am still a long ways off from beating steel on an anvil. One i need a anvil, but give me a couple weeks and i will probably have one.  Just cant wait to get started....

[Glenn]

Purchase a block of modeling clay.  Anything you can do with modeling clay, you can do with metal.  Think of it as 3 dimensional problem solving.  You can forge ideas in clay and the practice transfers directly when you can get to the forge.

[Will Brouwers]

It would also be a good idea to check out the improvised anvil section of the forums. I am considering this as it would be nice to have a bench anvil...

[ThomasPowers]

Hole in he ground forge, charcoal fuel and you should be hammering hot iron before Friday!

[The Jeff]

That was my first forge, pile of dirt with a hole in the middle, charcoal for fuel. Metal pipe and hair dryer for blower.

[Arkans]

I have been drawing up an idea based on a forge I seen once.  Using clay brick to build a box to desired height, filling it with dirt then using high temp mortar and concrete to make a table with a steel forge built into it, but it is something more like an industrial sized forge... one day I will have to take some pictures of my drawings and post them.  It is something I would like to build if I ever build my dream shop. Would be inside with a chimey exhaust flu.  Honestly I don't have a place to build it now.  One of those I can't shut my brain off designs.

[Latticino]

If you are going to build a solid fuel brick forge you might as well build it out of conventional clay brick for the bulk of the structure and chimney.  A top layer of high temperature furnace brick for the forge pan with a steel or cast iron fire pot should hold up quite well.  I don't see any need for dirt or concrete, and the high temperature mortar only for it's intended purpose of marrying bricks together (though likely not necessary for the bulk of the construction, if at all, if you use conventional mortar for most of the brick).  I'm sure there are numerous sets of plans out there for these in archived books as they were pretty common at one time.  Sometimes it is better not to reinvent the wheel, particularly if you don't have a lot of experience with the craft.  Seemingly minor design decisions like the size and depth of firepot, or the height of the sides of your forge can have a pretty significant effect on how useful your construction is in the end.

[Frosty]

Good suggestion George, I forgot that simple but very useful feature. Flat sides parallel to the face of chisels makes a much more useful tool.

Now is NOT the time to be drawing and imagining your "dream" shop, you don't know what you need or works well for you. Drawing your dreams for very long can so instill fantasies into your thinking that it can be nearly impossible to make what you really need when you build.

Seeing as you aren't building a fire and beating hot steel on whatever is handy, piece of rail, block of mild steel, smooth boulder, what-ever, making sketches and dreaming may be as far as you ever go. That's not necessarily a bad thing, I have notebooks full of ideas I've refined on paper I'll never make and never intended to. 

For me here and now, I'm going to back off making suggestions for projects until you're actually building a fire and hammering steel. My time is better served helping people who are actually doing. I'll be around and more than happy to help when you actually start smithing.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Doesn't hurt to dream, as long as dreaming doesn't prevent you from starting. BP0553 from the archives, scroll down to the last section and click on it. Be patient it takes a while to load the pictures.

 

[Glenn]

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

BP0553 Building a Brick Forge - Part 1
by Jeremy Knippel 2006



I will try to explain the best I can on how I built this forge. Nowing that if you build a forge similar to this, you may be using mat'ls of different sizes and or re-design it to fit your needs. I'm including a lot of pictures so that any cement contractor / or yourself can see how it's done and use their / your judgement as to any changes or modifications. These are the only pics I took during construction. If I don't have a clear picture of something I will try to explain it as I go.

*******This is just my design and may not be the best way or the right way to build this.*******

In the backround is a couple pallets of bricks worth and this shows the future placement of brick forge.




These are the dimensions for the brick layout. The 2 side arches are not dimesioned but as you will see in the following pics - you will understand how they are in relationship to the rest. All they are for is access to the ash dump and extra storage under the forge, so they do not need to be any place exactly. The 24" dimension is the depth of the chimney from the firepot up,(again later pics will explain).




This is the start of the lay out so the contractor can get a feel for what is wanted. The row next to his hand will be moved over toward him so the 2 bricks on top can be placed in between the 2 side rows so the width is 3 brown bricks an 2 red half bricks.




This is the start of laying the bricks. The red half bricks for the borders are set out from the brown bricks by a 1/4" for a bolder look. Concrete ties were used ( shaped in a U and inserted in the holes of the bricks and core filled) to help hold the border bricks to the rest of the main ones.




Another view of the start.




Working on the base of the chimney.




The bricks are layed up to were the arches will set now.




This is the start of puting in the archways. The arch support is made from 1/4" x 6" flat steel. Each end has a 1"flat extension to set on the bricks. Being the arch supports were made from mat'ls at hand I had to put a rod support on the back side to hold the arch from tipping inward during the brick installation.




Laying the top row of red bricks for the (coal tray and firepot support - # 2 in the series of 3).




Another view.




The brick work is done and ready for the chimney floor (will be the same level as the coal and firepot level).




The base below the chimney was filled with extra and broke blocks for filler and filled with cement. I used a 6" galvanized pipe for a clearance hole for the 3" air intake pipe. This is a critical measurement as far as height, so that after everything is done your air intake pipe will fit into the bottom of your fire pot. Also you can see were the back of the arch was filled with mortar and smoothed upward (as a fillet weld), this may not be necessary but I did it for extra support for the arch bricks.




Fire brick was used for the inside of the chimney area. Measurements are approximate - I did not measure these during assembly - I triied to get them afterward the best a could. These are as close as I could get - you may have to slightly change these measurements as needed.




Laying the brick up as the chimney is being done. The chimney opening is starting to take shape.




The opening is almost done(14" wide, 16-1/2 " tall, and 17-1/2" at the middle of the arch). The arch support on this one is temporary - it was removed so that there was no problem with different heat expansions between the metal and brick.




Things progressing along good.




By this time I was getting pretty exited as to how it was looking.

View looking down the chimny.



Another view.




Starting the tapering of the inside of the chimney.




Tapering the sides inward so the 12"x12' flue will have a place to set.




Another view.




You can see were the inside of the transition of the taper is plastered over with mortar to make smooth for the smoke. Also there is a smoke shelf just above the top firebrick row across the back.




The rest of the outer bricks were brought up to the clay tile area and the first clay tile flue was set.




Another view.




From the bottom of the 12 inch x 12 inch flue up - insulation was put inside the gap between the outer bricks and the flue. This helps to speed up the heating of the flue to start the smoke draw. This was done all the way to the top of the chimney outside above the roof.




Another view, ready to go through the roof.




Plastic was put on the tapered area to keep motar off while proceeding through the roof.




All the brick is done, acid washed, and sealed. The chimney above the inside ceiling was made with regular block around the flue and built up to the recommended height according to the distance from the peak of the roof. I made a stainless steel roof jack for were the chimney exits the roof outside.

That's how I built my forge -Jeremy Knippel

 

[ThomasPowers]

Most beautiful masonry forges I have seen are now the bases for propane forges set on top of them...

[Arkans]

That is a beautiful forge!  great build and very close to what i was planning here, i like how you used the red to outline the edges, looks great!

[Arkans]

Well, i am excited, this weekend is the weekend I plan on lighting the first fire in my forge!  So my plans this weekend are to start off simple, I am going to make a few punches and chisels,  I have some good high carbon steel i found at the scrap yard and plan on going back there on Friday to have another look around for some more scrap just for the purpose of punches and chisels.  my plans are to make two of each, (two is one and one is none rule on tools) but here is the list i want to start out making.

punches:   1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch round hole punches

                  1/4. 3/8 and 1/2 inch drifts

                  1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch square punches.

                  center punch

chisels:     1/2 and 3/4 hot cut chisels.

Fullers:      1/2 and 3/4 in fullers

 

Now i do not exspect to finish all of these this weekend.  I have never done this, so but i figure this will get me started,  with these though, i can start making tongs.   and building my skills.  If you can think of anything else i should make here, please drop a line.

[George N. M.]

If you are using a solid fuel forge a fire rake/poker is a good early project.  If you are using a gasser, never mind.

A cutting plate to protect your anvil when you are using chisels is good to make along with the chisels.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

[Arkans]

Thank your George!  I honestly forgot that one.. I do have a nice piece of rebar begging for that job!  I think i will work on that first!   I am surre i am going to have clinker to pick out and coal and coke to rake in.

**Mental note, dont forget coal rake... 

[Goods]

You may not have to worry about making all the punches and drifts at first. If you start with the smaller size punches, the holes can be drifted larger. If you start with the larger drifts  (unless you need perfectly sized holes) you can drive the drift part way up the taper from both sides to get any size form tip to final diameter.

Not trying to discourage you from making all of them, that’s half the fun, but if you have other things in mind it doesn’t hurt to mix things up. It’s always nice to have items to share along the way with friends and family. 

Keep it fun,

David