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I Forge Iron

Andrew Collington

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About Andrew Collington

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    http://blog.amnuts.com/

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     East Sussex, UK

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  1. Good to know you're happy with the quality and thanks for posting those pictures. Yeah, there are some quite obvious gaps there... So you're just laying a base of the supplied clay (is it refactory clay or rigidiser? Is there a difference? Sorry - no idea about this stuff yet!) and then putting a much more complete layer of Kast-O-Lite over the top of it? Could one option be to remove the blanket entirely and replace it with fire bricks that are of an appropriate size? (The base ones supplied and then some on the side that effectively hold up ones across the top with holes drilled throug
  2. I am considering getting a 2-burner Devil's Forge with a door (the DFPROF2+1D) and came on here to ask if the refactory clay they supply is enough or not (especially after reading the https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53239-ceramic-wool-insulation-safety-alert/ post!). I had seen one video of its application (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNOywSx01pM) but have no idea generally how thick the clay liner should be - I just assumed it should be enough not to allow the fibres to break loose. So anyway, it was good to see this thread because it looks like someone else has figured it all out
  3. The 90 or so bricks I got from an old ex-farrier (who I got my anvil from), and he said they were firebricks so I guess I'll just have to trust him on that one. I was pretty sure the others were firebricks... right up until you questioned it But assuming they are, it sounds like it could work out so I'll give it a go! With the reshaping or the pit; I'm assuming the premise to that if you wanted a bit of a longer heat you could widen the pit length a bit (be more oblong than round). But would anything need to be done with the tuyère to enable that? Or does it being in different shaped
  4. Hi all, I've been given a bunch of firebricks, a dozen of them quite large (190mm x 230mm x 45mm) and heavy and 90 or so of them smaller brick size (175mm x 90mm x 70mm) - would they make a suitable base and sides for a side-blast forge? I was thinking of just making a box (like the excellent jabod's shown on the forum), placing some of the larger size ones on the bottom (maybe 2x3), put the smaller bricks around the inside of the box as a wall, get a tuyère in there somehow (maybe between bricks or possibly through one of the brick holes if I find a small enough pipe), and then fill the
  5. Hi all, Hoping to get a little advice on setting up a backyard forge area - nothing professional at all... I live about four miles (as crow flies) from the coast in the south of England, so get a bit of salt air, fog, rain - you know, typical British weather. I was going to set up a small work area inside my garage with a coal forge, putting in a chimney through the metal roof. However, I've recently pulled down a shed which had a nice flat concrete base and thought about putting the forging area outside on that base. I'll probably put up a free-standing shelter over the top of it at
  6. You guys are so creative! To be able to look at some spanners and come up with critters, chairs, tables - it's great! Have loved looking around and seeing things like the rabbit/hare you created, @Daswulf, or the dancing figure from @ausfire... and that horse sculpture @scrapartoz created? Wow! Can't imagine how heavy that thing was to move. I'm sure there's a lot more posted up that I haven't seen yet (it's a shame there seem to be a lot of pictures missing; I get the impression there was a big file loss at some point). The spanners for me are going to be tucked away somewhere in my gar
  7. I went to a car boot sale today (non-uk friends; it's like a garage sale but people rock up in their cars/vans and sell stuff out the back of them) for the first time in forever, and my wife scored me 28 or so rasps for £10 and myself found some really heavy-duty spanners all for a tenner, as well as a few other bits and bobs. Got the rasps so I can practice something like knife making (whether they'll be viable metal for it I don't know, but it's more just for practice and to learn) and had every intention to reshape the spanners in some way… but they're pretty big and something I'm not like
  8. Great advice, thanks! Will take it all onboard for next time I fire it up.
  9. Would have replied to this thread earlier, but I've only just stopped groaning from all the puns. Just had to follow-up with the original post to say that today I tried out the forge. Threw on whatever charcoal I had to hand, pulled the blade off a broken mower, and for the first time ever put hammer to hot metal. Did many things wrong; melted the metal at one point, pretty sure I burnt the metal, had the head fly off my hammer (broke a mallet handle fixing the hammer!), got a couple small burns from flying scale when I struck the metal, and ended up with the ugliest metal rod you've ev
  10. Hah, yeah, fair play. I just mean't more like the mix you mentioned… Though one man's box of dirt is another man's exciting entry into blacksmithing. I like it! Yeah, the side blasting is more like Frosty mentioned, in that it is horizontal but does appear at the bottom of the bowl rather than up a bit.
  11. Thanks for the encouragement, guys. I do expect the clay mix to shrink a bit, but I figured I can just patch that up as I go and as it cracks. Should give me a few good tried, though, and if/when it fails I'll step it up to a proper JABOD with the sand/clay mixture you mentioned, Frosty. As for fuel, ThomasPowers I only have some charcoal right now so I expect that'll be my initial test, but I'm going to get some coal - I expect that'd be better and last a bit longer.
  12. This is my first ever attempt at creating a JABOD forge - though in this case it's a small BBQ rather than a box. No idea if it'll work - there's probably a hundred things wrong with it, but I can't wait 'til the clay/dirt sets a bit and I can try the little thing out. So excited!
  13. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for your great advice and welcoming nature! I've worked on my anvil, and she's looking lovely, and my vice is now in a working condition. Now I just need to make/buy/borrow/steal a forge (OK, possibly not that last one) and I can get started. :-) Here are a couple shots oh my anvil now. I only found one possible identification mark on it - possible a "G" stamped very close to the base on the front-side.
  14. Here are a couple pictures of the moving arm reattached. To be honest, from the solidly rusted vice it started as to what it looks like now, I'm really happy, and even if I don't attempt to re-arc the spring (if it even needs it) then I think it's a more than usable vice for me, especially as I'm really just starting out with this as a hobby. I just need to think about where to mount the vice now. I have no stand or bench big enough for it, but I've seen on this board that people have posted up their stand builds so I'm going to have a look at those and get some ideas. What do you
  15. Hi, After a number of attempts, a bunch of penetrating oil, and (as of today - wish I had done it sooner) some heat, I have managed to get a very rusted together vice apart. This, however, is the first leg vice I've ever hard (total newcomer to all of this) and I wonder if the spring looks in an OK position, or whether it's had so long in the same spot it's now just fixed in place. The photo attached is how far the spring protrudes, but I'm not sure whether it's meant to be more curved so as to really push back the movable arm, or whether it's just there to push it back a little bit from
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