Fowllife

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About Fowllife

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    NC Ohio

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  1. 2.08 C.I. Since "heavy C" isn't a shape I used an MC3x7.1 which is the heaviest 3" channel I found, is my guess right? I know you were just making a statement that some shapes are harder to calculate, but I had to guess anyways.......
  2. I'm surprised that some guys are still buying as low as $.35/lb since that's below wholesale price on most if not all shapes. Following are the "stander" lengths per my reference book from a fairly large multi state steel supplier HR round, square, flat - 20' HR strips (1/8"-3/16" thick) - 16' CR round, square, flat- 12' Angle - 20' Channel (bar, Structural, MC) - 20' (available in 5' increments after 20') Beams (I, WF, H) - 20' (available in 5' increments after 20') Pipe - 21', 24', and 42' (up to 60') Tube - 20' (24', 30', 36', 40'. 48', & 60') Threaded rod - 12' I should say, this is the stock length from this supplier, others may vary. Longer lengths are also available on some items.
  3. Does this guy count? He’s the biggest “pet” I have had in the pasture all year. The pasture is next to the barn, if I have the doors open when I’m working he is usually standing there looking at me.
  4. Mr Stevens - Big Azz (if I can say that?) fans do do a good job. There should be enough height for the small diameter fans to work here. If JLP is interested in going that route I would suggest a different supplier though. That particular company is VERY proud of their product, there are several other companies making high volume/low speed fans that would be more cost effective.
  5. Make sure you install some temporary bracing as soon as you get the first bay set. Partially erected pre-engineered buildings have been known to fall down if not braced. We use a bracket that bolts to one of the anchor bolts and use some big 20 ton?? come a longs to square it up.
  6. I applaud you for encouraging your daughter the think through her future and develop a "plan". Our oldest gets out of the service next summer, I may challenge him to complete the same project I think that too often now parents just tell their kids that they have to go to college, and to just pick something they like for a major. Most people just don't make the connection for education cost and potential income. I have an office job in the construction field, and I firmly believe that skilled trade wages will outpace degree professions in the next 10-20 years. It is a huge problem in this area to find people that want to work in the trades. Between the baby boomers retiring and the associated strain on the heath care system, and the lack of skilled trade working, it will be interesting what changes I will see before I retire. On the GI bill, from my understanding after you get out it is a max yearly reimbursement. They do cover when you are active duty, but with deployments and regular training op's its hard to take advantage when active
  7. Picker - Will it work, yeah I'm sure you can figure something out to make it work. In my opinion though it's really not worth the risk, and work involved. I'm not familiar with how the hydraulic pump is set up ion that tractor. Most small tractors are not set up to run the remotes at constant flow, and if yours are controlled by an electric solenoid you may not be able to. If you can't lock your remotes on to full flow you will need to control the press from the tractor. Also, does it provide that flow and pressure at idle, or at rated RPM's? A PTO pump would probably be a better option then using the tractor hydraulics. This option would let you keep the press fluid in a separate system. If you use the tractor hydraulics I would make sure you wire in a murphy switch tied to a hydraulic temp gauge. The hydraulic cooling capacity of the smaller tractors is not all that great. The biggest thing for me though is cost. A electric motor setup is fairly cheap compared to a new hydraulic pump for your tractor. If you figure fuel and depreciation into the equation electric is a no brainer as long as you have power close. I would probably even buy a cheap Harbor Freight Honda knock off gas engine before I went to the work of using tractor hydraulics.
  8. I know they did, I wasn't questioning your numbers. The NEC is one of the nicer codes for laying out numbers.....and the color pictures are nice too..... My comment and number were to point out the numbers on the motor tag don't make sense.
  9. I thought that amp draw seemed low, and Steve seems to agree. Something is not right with that label. Just straight by the numbers, 1 hp = 746 watts. That would mean 5 hp = 3728 watts. Watts/volts = amps, so 3728 watts @ 230v = 16.2 amps. These are theoretical numbers and would need put into real work application. Wire for extension cords is different in terms of wire type and coatings. Romex is actually just a brand name of wire, not a type.
  10. That amp load seems oddly small to me for a 5 hp motor. If I remember right most 220-240v 5 hp motors are 20-28 FLA? Also, NM cable (Romex) is not the right type of wire to use for extension cords.....I would highly recommend adding that sub panel now. It's really not that hard to do, and isn't that expensive.
  11. Most of southern Ohio does not have any zoning or building department for rural areas, so you can build whatever you want wherever you want. There are lots of places where you will see a $750k house next to a house trailer. Even in some of the smaller cities there is not much in terms of regulations. Up in northern Ohio most rural areas have zoning of some type, and almost all cities have a zoning and building department. The township I’m in has zoning, but no building department. You are supposed to get a zoning permit for any structural added or addition. There is a small fee, if it is waived for agricultural buildings. The county just recently has started making people get plumbing permits. Marcusb - great progress. I have always liked that style of barn, although you don’t see many in this area. What is the overall size? Are you putting battens over the joints, or isn’t wind blown snow much of an issue this far south?
  12. I have a '74 3000 gasser that has treated me pretty well. Those older Fords are fairly bulletproof tractors. I've been somewhat looking for a 4xxx series diesel to replace the 3000 since that's the only gas tractor I have. The house/farm is SE of Sandusky, but my wife currently lives in Logan so I'm down in the Hocking Hills area quite often. I'm guessing your trying to get it dried in before the snow flies?
  13. As a beginner myself, who has a 217# Peter Wright, unless you have the money burning a hole in your pocket and just want to spend it I think I would pass on that one. It looks like a fine anvil, but they extra cost would provide some good seed money for some other items you could use. There is a guy just south of Mansfield who has a 160# English pattern for $350, that's the direction I would go personally. It's not a perfect anvil, but it's usable. A lot would also depend on the type of smithing you plan on doing as well.
  14. Asphalt shingles is not an option I would recommend. Most manufactures require a 4/12 pitch, but may reduce that to 3/12 if you use ice guard and reduce the shingle exposure. Your roof looks to be a 1/12 pitch or less. If it is that flat screw down metal roofing is also not recommended. A concealed fastener standing seam roof may be ok if installed and flashed properly. Standing seam will probably require a layer of underlayment (synthetic felt is the best) of a slip surface over the Zip panels to maintain warranty. With how flat it looks, I would think a rubber roof (fully adhered) would be your best bet. Removing the shingles on the existing and extend your rubber at 24-30 inches would be best. As Marcusb mentioned snow load would be a concern of mine. Almost more so ice loading could be a big problem depending on how you insulate the roof.
  15. Good to see some progress, looking good. Dolmar makes some nice saws, a buddy of mine has a few. One of is 7910's is ported and even with a 54" bar it will eat some wood. What model is the Ford, mid-late '60's 4000? Roughly what area of southern Ohio are you in?