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Fowllife

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About Fowllife

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  1. That was my first thought, using a shoulder length glove is way better then needing one and not having it.....some smells take a while to wear off. I'll always remember the very first calf out of our first group of cows. It was a hard pull of a large bull calf, a lot of lessons learned that day. The fun isn't just limited to larger animals though. My wife has been elbow deep delivering a group of piglets before. Luckily she's a little lady with little hands, some jobs are just more meant for her.
  2. Do you plans actually call for your bolts to be torqued to a certain spec? We erect quite a few of these types of building every year in a commercial setting and very rarely have to torque to spec. I'm curious if they require that since we have never installed a Bison building. Almost all of our building require a post erection inspections and 99% of them only require a snug tight bolt connection. It looks like you are using a liner system on the roof and wall, those systems are a pain to install. There is a lot of special detailing involved to tighten everything up right. You may need an
  3. To tie into to current part of this conversation, I am an architectural designer by trade. I create preliminary, bid, and construction drawings for commercial and industrial projects (yeah, I'm the guy Rockstar is usually complaining about making poor quality drawings, although I don't usually do electrical/mechanical drawings).It could be something as small as adding a new door to a warehouse or a small office renovation, or as large as a multi million dollar office building or 100k + square foot warehouse.The part of my job most people don't know if a lot of what I do is code research. The m
  4. These guys are right, it's somewhat of a good thing to always expect more or want to do better. I've been woodworking for 25 years and I have never made a project I can't find flaws in. The average person may not see them, but I know they are there. The day I feel I made a perfect project will never happen. I've only been smithing for a little over a year and haven't gotten a lot of time to devote to the craft yet. I have one of the first pieces of steel that I worked on at an open forge, and several of my earlier "projects" hanging in the shop. When I look at them compared to what I can do no
  5. Unfortunately your dealing with one of the problems of "re-purposing" equipment. You don't really know exactly what you have for some of the pieces of your system. There is also a chance that you control valve is not rated for the flow rate you are at now (unless you have already checked that) As I have mentioned earlier, there are websites and calculations to figure out every piece of you system. I strongly suggest you take a few hours to find those calculations and analyse every piece of your current system. With the current pump flow and pressure analyse all of your pipe sizes and fl
  6. I know I should just keep out of this but.....What's the Max operating pressure for your filter assembly? I'm pretty sure that's going to end up being less then the working pressure of sch 40 pipe.....manufactured reservoir tanks have a breather (no pressure) and suction line is rated for what, 250 PSI? Most filter assemblies are Max 250 PSI?.....I'm just saying.....There are calculation to figure your return pressure depending on pipe sizing and flow rates.....My return is 3000 PSI hose (it came on it), and my filter assembly is only rated 250 PSI max......but I don't know what I'm talking ab
  7. Yes, I am 100% sure they are filters, I have replaced them several times. I have never heard of a hydraulic fluid dryer on any agricultural equipment. I also don’t really agree with “the hotter the better” Hot fluid is rarely a good thing, operating temperature yes, hot no. I think the filter change interval is 100-300 hours per the manual depending on which tractor, or the skid loader I look at, and they are all between the tank and the pump. Heck, my little Ford tractor doesn’t even have a filter and the pump on that lasted 4500 hours before I had to rebuild. My old skid loader didn’
  8. John - Yes, that's the one I got from HGR. I just need to do a little clean up on things and figure out the die holder and make some dies. Frosty - I cant take credit for the build. John noticed this one at HGR and I bought it, minus the pump, motor & tank. We will have to agree to disagree on the reservoir tank thing, which is fine. I'm guessing the fluid capacity of the system as is is probably only 1/2 gallon-1 gallon of fluid. With a 13 gpm pump that's 15-20 fluid cycles per minute. that just feel like a lot to me. Mr Griffin - Yes, technically you are correct. The plumbing
  9. While I have not had much time in the forge lately I have been keeping my eye out for useful stuff. It seems like more stuff pops in in the southern part of the state then in the northern where I live. Since my lovely wife lives in the southern part I convinced her to drag home a couple of hand crank blowers for me. The first is a I think a Lancaster 140 which was smaller then I was looking for, and the second is a Buffalo 300. The Buffalo should work nicely for the water cooler coal forge I’m in the process of building.
  10. No. I ordered the tank, pump, filter, and all the fittings I needs at the same time from Surplus Center. I think I may have seen them locally at either Rural King or TSC, but I might be wrong. While I am not an “expert” in hydraulics, following are a couple picture of my setup for reference. As I already said, I have not really used it yet as it’s not done. It’s fast and will squish the crap out of a 2x4, but I don’t know how it will do on hot steel. The pictures might not be very clear, so the basic are - pressure line from the pump to the control valve, one line to each end of cy
  11. I went with matching the high pressure side and put on a 3 gallon tank. It's fast, but I haven't had the time to finish the rest and see how it will perform.
  12. The other issue you may run into is lack of reservoir capacity for your now larger pump flow. If I'm not mistaken you have a small 1 Qt ? reservoir tank on your setup, with a 13 gpm pump you may end up starving the pump and creating too much pressure on the return side. I think I mentioned in one of my PM's awhile back that the old rule of thumb is 1 gallon of reservoir capacity for each GPM of pump flow (my tractors all seem to be about 1.5x flow rate, 18 gpm @ 25 gal & 22 gpm @ 35 gal tank). My pump and motor are the same as yours are right now, but I have a 3 gallon tank with a filter
  13. I would also question whether a 6" slab would be worth it, but it is only an extra 2 1/2 yards of concrete so if it makes you feel better....Having a good base and proper install is way more important. I'm not totally following what you are trying to cast into the floor. Typically I'm never a fan of casting any chase ways or power outlets into the floor. There is way to much risk of having them in the wrong spot, or having them get in the way in the future. It's just more trouble then it's worth and they usually get filled in later or just not used. Commercially it's rarely done, power, a
  14. Thanks Pnut. Since making a spring fuller a few weeks ago I have been looking for projects to use it on. When this came up and I was told to "do whatever my little heart desired" (you have to say that in a southern lady accent) it seemed like the perfect time to try some new things. My wife requested a pair of plant hangers similar to what I made for my mom, since her birthday is next week that is my next project. She likes to looks of the looks of the spade ends that are shouldered, so that is what I'll probably do.
  15. Mr Stevens. Thank you for your reply. Your post which you linked above, and the chart is one I have referenced in the past. For some reason it never clicked until just now that chart references tuyere OPENING size and SUPPLY pipe. Do you think my 1 1/4" supply pipe will be large enough or should I cut it out and put in a 2"? My tuyere opening is currently 3/4" but would be easy to drill out to 7/8" or 1" You did not muddy the waters with your explanation, I do understand the concept of modifying the fire bowl and the fill material required.
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