Arthur210 Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Finished the mounting my new anvil to its custom-made stand. The anvil is a 157# Wilkinson and the stand weights a bit over 100#. The legs are 4.5" diameter tubes filled with sand. There's silicone caulking between anvil and stand. Rock solid, no ringing. Now I can put the new anvil to work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 I strongly suggest breaking the edges on hooks to cut down on abrasion of the cloth hung on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
671jungle Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Thanks Thomas, already done. I went through with a file and rounded all the lines. Next go, will be a shorter body length while extending the hooks to be deeper with a scroll at the tip. I feel the upcoming challenges will be of consistency in design and dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 I usually octagonalize them with the hammer---not a regular octagon, 4 major and 4 minor sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearthstone Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 17 hours ago, JHCC said: No photos, but I finished the hooks and drilled and tapped the holes for their mounting bolts Looking forward to those photos. Best ways to mount hardware without detracting from the piece can be tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazz Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Be aware that felt will absorb water from the air. If the felt is in contact with blue steel parts, rust will develop. Ask me how I know. Sheet rubber is a better choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 9 hours ago, Hearthstone said: Best ways to mount hardware without detracting from the piece can be tough. In this case, each hook has two 1/4" x 20 threaded holes, and they will be fastened to the backing board with bolts coming through from the back. The holes will then be covered with the layer of felt that will protect the gun from contact with the hooks themselves. Solid as a rock, invisible, and easy to remove if necessary. (On a side note, my own 1/4" x 20 tap broke a couple of weeks ago and I hadn't gotten around to getting another, so my neighbor gave me an extra one he had. In return, I gave him an extra pair of outside calipers I had kicking around (a sweet little 2" Starrett number), so everyone's happy. That may seem like an asymmetrical trade, but he is going to tune my piano for me at some point as well.) 24 minutes ago, Gazz said: If the felt is in contact with blue steel parts, rust will develop. The hooks will be supporting the receiver and forestock, like this: The rifle in question is the "Golden Boy" Eagle Scout Tribute Edition from Henry Repeating Arms. The metal parts where the hooks will be are plated with either nickel or gold, so I don't anticipate any rusting issues. Thanks for the heads-up, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Rubber degrades too and makes a nasty mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Update: just ran into my neighbor, who told me that the hooks will be under the wooden forestock and stock, so felt it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Further update: he decided to use a synthetic leather called “Escaine”, which is what Steinway is using in their piano keys instead of buckskin. So here are the hooks mounted on their backing board (salvaged from a fancy piano): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shabumi Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Beautiful work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 I love it when a collaboration comes together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 The finished product is stunning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 That is BEAUTIFUL John! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Love that wood. Burly maple i believe? Loves me a Henry also. Beautiful rifle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPaul Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Made a couple of hot dog sticks today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Hinsman Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 I made a wooden mallet (finally!) with maple head, ash haft, and beech wedge, tried a little copper work, and made a spoon for my loose leaf tea. I also snagged a couple birch rounds from a neighbour and got the ends coated in some green wood end sealer from Rockler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 If you round the edges of your mallets they'll be less likely to splinter if you hit on the edge. (Ask me how I know.) Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 And if they splinter away to nothing, you’ll have what lawyers call “absence of mallets”. 7 hours ago, BillyBones said: Love that wood. Burly maple i believe? I don’t know; I haven’t seen it in person. Definitely some kind of burl; I will ask my neighbor. Today, I decided to add some bracing to the nodding donkey, as I’ve been experiencing a lot of slop in where the hammer hits. It turns out that a big part of the problem was that the two bolts holding the axle to the column had loosened up! Nonetheless, I went ahead with adding the bracing, so here’s before: And after: And here it is in all its glory: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Nodding donkey, day 2: After tightening up the aforementioned bolts, there was still a lot of slop in the hammer, as shown here. The two inner marks show the hammer’s resting position, and the two outer show how far left and right it can travel. That’s about 2-3/4” total, which we can all agree is way too much. The problem is that the axle pin fits pretty loosely in its bracket, and the pivot block on the arm doesn’t have anything to keep it straight. So, the first step was to weld some chunks of steel to help guide the pivot block straight. And then cut some big washers of HDPE (milk jug plastic) to act as low-friction shims. Then assemble everything with a wrapping of HDPE around the axle pin: Et voila! The results are much better, with the slop reduced to about 3/4”. I can live with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 There's flex in the angle iron the pivot bolt is connected to. Angle iron has a lot of twist in it's nature. A couple stiffeners on the inside of the angle might do it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 Good thought. Might even do both sides of the vertical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 I didn't think I had to mention that. If you need to try another pivot let me know I have a pretty effective method that should lend itself well. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Hinsman Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 On 10/24/2020 at 5:32 PM, Frosty said: If you round the edges of your mallets they'll be less likely to splinter if you hit on the edge. Frosty, I chamfered the edges slightly with a knife, but its very hard, dry maple and my rasp would take a while with it. i'll see how it works for some scrolls and twists and then round accordingly. On a completely unrelated note, does anyone know and good wood grinding discs for a 4.5" angle grinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 Owen, there are flap discs available in different grits for grinders. They work for wood and metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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