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I Forge Iron


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    North Coast, Ohio

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  1. Thanks All. JHCC: I'll head over to Aztec and check them out. I didn't realize Aztec had drops and cutoffs; I'll head over there next week! I live in N Ridgeville, but my shop is in Nova--best of both worlds, live in suburbs relax in the country. Post Pandemic hammer time sounds fine to me. Been doing this a while, but only get a little time at the forge; still apprenticing.
  2. I'm in the Cleveland area and used to get my stock from Garfield Hts but that place started having problems with orders. Now I go online from a Toledo supplier. I've been learning blacksmithing for 11 years and get my scrap steel from auction similar to what you get pricewise, but for "known" steel I order it and that has been my most convenient option. It's just a hobby mainly so I don't use hundreds of pounds at a time and Cleveland scrap yards are not the most ..... welcoming. Box stores are even pricier and I am less sure of the quality they carry. Price goes down, of course, with more we
  3. Re Steel Availability: Per Frosty's comment, I have had the same luck getting leaf and coil springs from auto shops. Take my car in for what I think is an expensive repair and ask them for parts. I get leaf springs, coil springs, bearings, tie rods. Scrap prices around here are terrible and the typical shop doesn't care about a couple of springs. I do get odd looks, though.
  4. I may never consider myself as more than an apprentice; so much to learn.

  5. Sorry Asmithy, I got so hung up on pontificating about experience and such I never actually answered your question (or at least what I think your question is) from my point of view. So after you consider all of the above and have read the welding threads: Get hold of your inexpensive affordable, preferably mild steel. With your location some people can help you find sources. I would suggest 3/8, though 1/4 would work but is too easy to burn. Heat the end, fold over onto itself then weld together. You can even draw that back into a bar if it's a good weld. When you succeed at that more
  6. +1 on working with an experienced smith. I always feared the weld. Avoided it as much as possible. Spent two days welding (coal forge) everything with a mentor. Now I no longer fear the weld even though they don't all stick. Start simple (such as chain links, 3/8 lap weld...) then lots of time at the forge and anvil. Twenty or thirty ...forty.... welds later and you'll have more successes than failures (spokeshave plane iron, my most recent failure). This whole blacksmithing thing is not as easy as many people think. Sure you can hit hot metal with a hammer, but that does not always
  7. Would using sand when welding billets be similar to this experiment? Just curious.
  8. I totally understand the mix of techniques and equipment. This is my hobby, I rarely sell anything and give away most of my best efforts. Historical woodworking is what led me to the forge. I recently made a couple tomahawks with a friend--mild steel fold and weld, steel welded in the bit. For handles we used dried cherry which I had cut from my property, riven into billets with axe and wedges and set to dry for several years. The handles were shaped on a shaving horse with drawknife and spokeshave. It just felt good to work it that way. However, the sharpening and polish was done with the '
  9. I have downgraded filing from "hate" to "strongly dislike"; I had an epiphany a few years ago that many of my projects would benefit from the use of a file. I just never had, not took the time, to pursue that part of the project. As my skill at the anvil gets better, I don't achieve no filing, just less filing. And yes, it sure does help refine the project, no matter what it is. I had an experienced smith give me an introduction to filing for the better part of an afternoon on more than one occasion. That really made the difference for me.
  10. Finished cleaning this up. From a box lot at an auction, buried beneath the chisels and a couple of planes. The handle is new and of no interest [I put it back on for display] but the head is forged--one long piece folded over and welded together with a high carbon steel bit and poll. I started one of these in a class but never finished it. I figure it is either a very old axe or the product of a contemporary smith that did not age well [the axe, not the smith]. It will never but used but I like the age it shows. It followed me home as do many auction lots. Two of the regional aucti
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