Low temp silver braze using a copper compatible filler won't cause HAZ problems if the person with the torch doesn't screw up. Have to check codes of course but it's really rare to find a code type who knows welding from hot glue. Done right you can get it approved with a little hard data like you'll find at a welding supply and the filler's data sheets. As with welding rods, knowing exactly what is in, it's properties, longevity, etc. is critically important with brazing and soft solder, fillers.

Frosty The Lucky.

the process is called Cad-weld.  The wires go into a mold, then the charge is set and either lighter or battery to set off the charge and its braized, the same process is also used to weld the ground wires to the building frame

Sounds a little like thermite welding on RR tracks but on a micro scale, LOL

Yes that is what it is exactly, and about as dramatic as well.  Especially when a person didn't get the mold clamped closed properly and we had fireworks in the ceiling of an auto assembly plant from the metal spraying all over

Steve,  not going to get involved in welding 500mcm so just out of my own curiosity you would have to buy a kit?  or is it a bunch of powders that get measure and mixed and then just reuse the same form?  

I know what thermite welding is and the process.. I just never new they used the same process for copper.. 

you can buy a package of cone shaped charges with fuse, and buy the mold, and if the newer electronic type,  buy the trigger system.

Or just hire a local contractor to do your grounding for you

Is there a name for it so I can watch a video?  

electrical cad welding

 

FWIW, if you look for "Harger Uni-Shot" you can find inexpensive single-use molds with a single charge of welding thermite for bonding ground rods to ground conductors (I used them for installing my ham radio grounding system and bonding to the main house ground).  They're rather inexpensive, much less than the reusable molds. (I won't link to them, since that would be against forum rules --- but they're easy to find).

They might not make one specifically for your use case, though.

 

Thanks for the info on cable welding. 

Really very fascinating.

 

Still no meter installation so reached out to NG.  

On that note I was able to start getting wiring ran to the lights.

 

I spent 4 days working on the manlift with a no starter condition. 

I cleaned the fuel cutoff solenoid and the fuel pump and installed a new copper line with direct connection at the tank. 

Also bought a new battery. The old one was only holding 8-10volts. 

Group 31 HD. 

Getting the fuel supply stuff sorted really helped. She fires right up now.

 

Turns out I mistakenly turned the fuel switch to neutral which runs the carb dry before switching over to propane.

Have 3 of the lights wired. They are dimmer controlled.

There won't be a shadow in the place.

 

Looking better and better with every picture. Thumbs up.

 

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sails. ~ Semper Paratus

looks nice and white the walls, wonder how long it will stay like that.  

Lookin' great!

Help, Help, I see concrete floors. All blacksmiths head for Rutland and cover this with tools and random saved items, we cant let mothers/partners ever see a a single clean shop

M.J.Lampert

PS looks wonderful when do you hope to have the school going by?

IFCW, Thanks my friend..  slow and steady..  Now comes the little stuff..   I thought I had most of it covered but had to order more wire..  ouch..    Conduit hangers are at a premium too.. 

So I keep chugging on like a good old International Harvester..    

Gewoon Ik..   They will be white till they are not anymore..    I actually have white steel metal to put up about 9ft up on all the walls..  Once this is done then coming thru and pressure washing them and shooting them with Rustoleum oil based white won't take very long..  cough, spit, sputter.    Joke of sorts..   But ideally there will be a grinding area with air cleaners and a filter unit up by the ceiling. 

Shaina.  Thanks..  Coming along.. 

Mr Lambert,   No say it ain't so..  LOL..   2 weeks ago I had a buddy come over and we spent 4 hrs moving stuff around so i could move the manlift and finish up the work. 

I've added a bunch of machines I never really planned on and until the school is whole, there are some items that will leave once all setup..  Until that time, I'm still collecting on items I think would be really great to have both in the school and also in my personal shop. 

As for the school going/opening..  3 years ago..   LOL..  In all seriousness I'd like to get it going sooner than later. 

Getting the wires connected at the pole was a huge get outta the way. 

Now getting the lights up and heating duct.  Then I can finish insulation and wiring. 

My first class will be for a select group on steeled face wrought iron hammers..   I all ready have the people in mind. 

1 hour ago, jlpservicesinc said:

won't take very long..  cough, spit, sputter.

Done in a jiffy? Story of my life.

I had a thought for the school's first course. The proper finishing and setting up of a blacksmith shop. Offer scholarships of course.  Hmmmm?

In truth I'm looking forward to it being up and running. Finished won't happen ever, these things live forever as projects.

Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty..  (schools first course offering)  "Proper finishing and setting up of a blacksmithing shop".   

Ouch..  If that is the course to offer it would have to be a few years from now.. LOL..  

Setting up 1 shop is pretty fast and easy.  The trailer is a great example of very functional hand operated shop. 

Setting up 4 shops at the same time with all the included equipment and then some of the special old school items..  Ouch, ouch.. Makes my head hurt.. 

I figure getting the 4 forges and stacks up will be the next big hurdle in terms of progress..    Anvils and stands are easy.  

Just time.. 

The Hammer class is because I have some people who are interested (friends) and will be low key..   IE won't have to have everything finished and polished.   

So on the other electrical front. I am now live.. 

Friday national grid came and installed the meter..  

I also was able to get some of the furnace heater duct up.

One more section to go.

This is what 1200.00 of wire looks like.

Fantastic to see this

Congrats Jennifer! You can start by rolling up the extension cord from the house to the shop! It's nice to see they're using more attractive colors on the wire, not that the old ones were bad, just not as pleasing to the eye.

You know your heat ducting kind of looks like you're going to use smoke from the forge to scent the shop. 

Okay, I'm being silly, it's so good to see you get the meter set I feel a little more like celebrating.

More? My doc told me my leg/knee is healed and I got to take the brace off last Thursday. I've been almost unreasonably happy ever since. I'm still using my cane till my legs get their strength back but it won't take long.

Thanks for another good reason to feel happy!

Frosty The Lucky.

Just to humor Frosty:

120v colors  red, black, blue for phases; white neutral, green ground,

HI-volt colors brown, orange, yellow for phases; grey neutral, green for ground

and pink and purple colors are used for travelers on switches

Thank you for your help Steve.   it's been a long time coming and with assistance and learning Code everything fell into place.   

I'm going to save pennies now for solar installation on the roof..  22ftX60ft will hold a lot of panels..  South easterly facing too on a 4/12 pitch..  

Thanks Frosty.  No more extension cord.  Was the first thing I dug out of the building moving it outside.. 

The next major wiring will be the lights and switch. The pull boxes came in for the bottom of the grey irons so now I can go at it.  

FYI in case of a 120/240v delta connection we use orange for the high (240v) leg, and some Installations like General Motors plants have their own color codes

Hi Steve.  I was not in the know with High leg 240V and Orange.  This makes sense though. 

High-leg delta (also known as wild-leg, stinger leg, bastard leg, high-leg, orange-leg, red-leg, dog-leg delta) is a type of electrical service connection for three-phase electric power installations. It is used when both single and three-phase power is desired to be supplied from a three phase transformer (or transformer bank). The three-phase power is connected in the delta configuration, and the center point of one phase is grounded. This creates both a split-phase single phase supply (L1 or L2 to neutral on diagram at right) and three-phase (L1-L2-L3 at right). It is called "orange leg" because the L3 wire is often required to be color-coded orange.^[1] By convention, the high leg is usually set in the center (B phase) lug in the involved panel, regardless of the L1-L2-L3 designation at the transformer.