17brpeterson1 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I have a Hay Budden anvil in need of some refacing. Is it a good idea to weld on the anvil? If it is what are the steps and what electrode should i use? If not how can I repair it because if I don't it will be very hard to make anything flat. Also needs repairing on horn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Greetings 17, Welcome to IFI... Please fill in your profile data so the folks can see where you live and such... If you use the search function in the anvil category you will find tons of data on anvil welding.. Spend some time and you will get answers to your questions... Again welcome Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 post photos, wait on any "repairs," most are not needed. and can riun an otherwise functional anvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Search on the Robb Gunther anvil repair method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Read the in the "Anvils" section here in the main forums page and you will find answers to your questions multiple times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Use the anvil as is for a year. During that time study and research welding on anvils. If after a year you should not do the work, and the local welder should not do the work. Seek out someone that has welded on and successfully repaired many anvils and ask his advice as to the anvil even needing to be repaired and if he would do it for you. Pay what he asks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I would say "most local welders" have not had experience welding on or repairing an anvil properly - use first as Glenn has said and talk with many other blacksmiths first, before you potentially damage your anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17brpeterson1 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 I can try to get you some pictures tomorrow. The face has a couple of big dents in it where it looks like someone just kept hitting their hammer in the same place and your steel would be curved if you tried to forge in those spots. On the heel it looks like someone used a chisel on it and there are a bunch of hashes in it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 you will learn that a lot of faults are features when you find out how to use them, if you need a flat surface you can make one to fit in your hardy hole, the area of an anvil in use at one time is about the same as the face of your hammer. you may want to read the thread 'never give up' to find how small a flat face you need is. use for a year talk to others learn then decide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakersteve Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 The face has a couple of big dents in it where it looks like someone just kept hitting their hammer in the same place and your steel would be curved if you tried to forge in those spots Anvil has a built-in swage block - Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Also look at the thread here called "Anvil Torture" where a machinist destroys an anvil because they DON'T KNOW HOW ITS MADE! Machinists and welders destroy more anvils making assumptions they don't bother to check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17brpeterson1 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 You can see the two big trenches everything is kinda beat up I think it is a 100 pounds definitely not heaver. So should I just use the thing and let it flatten out over time or attempt at repairing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Geist Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 No repair necessary. Go ahead and use the thing as is. It's a good one. George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I'd run a ball bearing test on it. My HB is one of the harder anvils in my harem and that does appear to be a bit excessive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrick Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I suggest working over with a coarse grinding wheel or sanding disk. I think most of those dings will polish out without welding. You'd have to do that anyway to dress the welds so skip the welding and use if for a while. Even if it is soft, you likely will not put that much wear on it for a long, long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17brpeterson1 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 Dropped a ball bearing at 10" and it rebounds back up to 9"-8" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 I'd use it as is. That's what I decided couple of years ago. As I've learned hammer control I've added a few dings of my own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Interesting on the rebound, In my limited anvil experience I have found that when the face is that beat up it usually is a bit on the softer side around 50% to 60% rebound. Is this the result of alot of cold working or just missed hammer blows. I wouldnt weld on it though, put it to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Greetings again 17, Looks like a good anvil... If it was mine I would use a hand held belt sander and lightly sand the face.. You will never get out all the deep groves but it looks like you have a sweet spot in the center... As for the horn a flap sanding disc on a 41/2 grinder will fix that right up ... I have done several that way and they are in service.. Don't go over board with the sanders ... Use it this way and it will serve you well.. Just my 2c Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17brpeterson1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Cool beans. Thanks for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsoldat Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 I wonder if it is worth a shot using a small ball pein hammer around the edges of the worst of the dents and dings. May make for a lot less material loss with a flapwheel / belt sander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 I wonder if it is worth a shot using a small ball pein hammer around the edges of the worst of the dents and dings. May make for a lot less material loss with a flapwheel / belt sander Definitely. Leaves more of the work hardened surface behind. That anvil was outright abused. but it is still in very good condition. Definitely no welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 If you need a smooth flat face it's easy to make a bottom tool for the purpose. Just a piece of flat stock at least an inch thick to lay over the anvil face and held in place with a shank that fits your hardy. Put her to work and she'll give you good service as long as you want to work at the anvil. Try to remove as little from it as possible, whatever you grind/sand off is gone, bye, BYE. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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