basher Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 So I have an 867 lb anvil with a snub nose..... I am considering re forging the bick . My plan is to turn it upside down and sling it under an engine crane with a couple of 2 by fours as long handles to guide it.... amd ratchets yop rotate it .....to heat the bick in a gasser and have a no 5 superheater nozzle handy, then to reforge the bick on another anvil on the face and then against the side of another anvil with sledges. The rest of the anvil is so wonderful that the worn away nose seems like a shame. I think I should be able to forge 6 inches of the bick without taking the temper out of the face. I think its a 3 person job (possably 4) What think you all... too risky or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herb Upham Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I'd be inclined to forge an extension from 4140 then cut off the orignal and weld on the new extension thus preserving as much of the original as possible. Welding pre-heat in the 400-500 deg F range should work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 ....whatever you do, take some video of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I would think you should be able to dress the end of the bick just by heating and then walking around it with a sledge and not need another anvil to work against. Remember if it's real Wrought Iron work it HOT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 As Thomas says - Also, back it up with a heavy sledge on the opposite side of the horn your hitting during the re-shaping. It would be easier than to try to manipulate the heavy HOT anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Greetings Basher, I must agree with Herb on this one.. I would evaluate the mass and come up with a picture or simply use model clay to see what it would look like after a re-forging attempt... I would also use the clay thing to model a added piece to be welded and again look see.. What a beautiful anvil.. I would go out of my way to bring it back to its original look.. To do that you must add iron... Keep us informed on your progress.. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Aside from the fixes idea, I am amazed at what it must have taken to forge that anvil in the first place. The amount of heat it would have given off while forging was tremendous. And the forge/furnace to heat it had to be seen. Given the tools of the time, I find it absolutely amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I would be inclined to make a half-round bottom swage that I could work the horn in to. By hitting on the sides and belly of the horn, you should be able to streamline the underside and force the top of the horn (the divot) into the swage, rounding it rather nicely without needing too much dressing. My only concern would be bringing the horn up to forging temps without taking the temper out of the face. That's a lot of heat to try keeping out of the face and I'm not sure it could be done successfully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Direwolf Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Hi Basher, I would think about welding the horn with 7014 or 7018 to add metal and reshape. Both weld well to wrought iron and both are good for build up. I have repaired horns with both and had great results. I have an anvil that size and trying to manipulate it could be tricky, I think if you do I would have a 4 person crew! What ever you decide, great anvil and best of luck! Keep us posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I would be worried about drawing the temper in the faceplate - but - you could fab a cooling collar out of aluminum or copper tubing and run some water through it to keep the heat frow the body. Aside from that concern, I see no reason not to try it if you are inclined - although welding it up with MIG and grinding is another option. With regard to forging, can you get it between power hammer dies and use a slapper die to point it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I would go with the weld buildup, without doubt, unless you are just looking for a challenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I don't have any advice to give. I'm just going to sit here and drool on my shirt and look with envy at that magnificent piece of iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windancer Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 That bick cannot be fixed. Period. Just send it on over here to my place and then you won't have to fool with it! I am certain you will get it the way you'd like and have many more years of happy use from it. Because of my shop size and layout I need to move my anvil sometimes. Yours gives me a backache just looking at the picture. That is a good looking anvil! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dntfxr Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Wow that is a monster old anvil! If I were repairing it I think I'd run a steady stream of water just behind the repair area and build it up with 7018 or a 90xx. Hardalloy32 would function great but I believe the repair would stand out with the chrome-nickel alloy. I'd be worried about drawing the temper of the face and whatever little the horn has too by heating and forging it. Take pics whatever you do with it for sure! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caotropheus Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I am not the right person to recommend methods for anvil repair. You gentleman are the experienced blacksmiths and I simply hit metal with a hammer. I am just a backyard curious guy that likes to make things with steel. I can leave here two ideas and from here you can develop more sophisticated anvil repair processes, first how I made my anvil horn by welding and sanding material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I have reforged at least five bick ends on smaller anvils. Thomas' suggestion is what I've done. You free-hand it without it being on another anvil. I've done mine by tipping the anvil back on the heel while it's on the ground. I've heated with a rosebud, but you'll need more than a rosebud. It's helpful if you start on the bottom bringing the bick end upward if need be, but at least giving it a nice curvature. You'll also be hitting and shaping the sides, as the bottom is worked on. Finish the top line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 That was on eBay not too long ago was it not? Quite a distinct horn that. I would have thought the body of the anvil would make for an excellent heat sink so drawing temper might not be an issue, but I'd still be thinking about keeping it cool. Building it up by welding sure seems the easier option to me. All the best Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 I was unaware that wrought iron was in any useful way weldable. I will look up those rods drilling and tapping the end of the bick and then building around an extension rod would by far be the easiest rout to go..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Shoot, I was hoping you were taking on the big project just because you could, and was looking forward to seeing it. But if you're just wanting to get that ding out, welding it up would certainly be the cheapest and easiest way to go about it. Might not get a nice blend between the metal types, but it will certainly be serviceable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 If the welding rods are a high nickel type then I will go down the forging path.....as the last thing I want is patchy nasty nickel to be visible . and yes it is from Ebay..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 If it were my anvil, I would go with the weld build-up method. ... Super nice anvil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tran Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Have you considered using an angle grinder to reform the horn? Perhaps that would not take away much weight. If you want to weld it or forge it to protect the body from heat AND if you have the equipment it could be buried horn up. You have more experience than I do. This is just a guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 If the welding rods are a high nickel type then I will go down the forging path.....as the last thing I want is patchy nasty nickel to be visible . and yes it is from Ebay..... The rods already mentioned are the way to go. &014 would work fine but 7018 is what I would choose. You will have no color difference at all and very little hardness difference either, considering the amount of addmixture which will occur. No need for nickel whatsoever, since I don't think that monster was built so long ago that it is anything less than triple refined. I would get some temple sticks, 300F, 350F and 400F, Heat just the tip of the bick in the exact area to be welded to 300F. Go about half way back the horn towards the cutting plate and mark with 400F then just before the top plate with 350. If the 400 melts stop welding. If the 350F melts, start cooling. On an anvil that big, the top plate isn't likely to be superhard anyway. but why take a chance. Also, a wirefeed CO2 welder with 70,000 series wire would work fine too, in fact it would make for a faster, easier repair, but you need a real one, at least 250 amps. Good luck (not that you will need it, this is an easy repair) and good find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 If you forge it, remember that unless there is a video it didn't happen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I was unaware that wrought iron was in any useful way weldable. I will look up those rods drilling and tapping the end of the bick and then building around an extension rod would by far be the easiest rout to go..... I've welded several pieces of wrought with both E6011 and MIG - none of the repairs could be seen visually after they had aged a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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