Tran

Mayo Clinic http://www.mayoclinic.org/first-aid/first-aid-burns/basics/art-20056649 recommends running water. Mayo Clinic also recommends removing oneself from the heat source when burnt. I have the opinion that anyone that builds fires hot enough to make steel sparkle, plays with sharp objects, and swings heavy iron on a stick has some (at least a small amount) of common sense. Common sense dictates that one should not hold a burn of an open flame and pour anything flammable on the burn. At times there is no running water available but I usually have a first aid box or bag. In it there is alcohol. I take none of the comments personal. Ausfire, sorry about your predicament.

Normally blacksmiths get a lot of 1st and 2nd degree burns than 3rd and 4th degree burns mostly because blacksmiths have been burnt and learned what not to do. 1st and 2nd degree burns usually do not cause open skin wounds at the time of the boo-boo. The desire is to cool the burn rapidly as possibly without causing more damage. Alcohol evaporates rapidly and will cool burns if the skin is broken then there will be some smarting. This (to me) is better than the burn progressing to a higher degree of burn. Alcohol is in most first aid kits and will work in emergencies. Mixed with alo vera juice, pulp or salve will sooth along with cooling the burn and preventing even more damage. With moving air alcohol cools even faster. If running water feel free to use it, as long as it is clean water.

Rubbing, or denatured alcohol is cooling and sanitary. (Just keep it away form open flames of things may get hotter). Then alo vera in whatever form.

If Possible keep a few aloe vera plants close, that works wonders for dings like this. There is a gel from the Aloe plant available if you ican not grow the plants.

Have you considered using an angle grinder to reform the horn? Perhaps that would not take away much weight. If you want to weld it or forge it to protect the body from heat AND if you have the equipment it could be buried horn up. You have more experience than I do. This is just a guess.

This covers making a bone bladed knife.

Ok, I concede it is not a good idea as is, so don’t do it. Highsider - I don't think think you or anyone else are preaching. If anyone does however, creates any thing even similar to this either put safety guards on it or don’t use it as shown.

This was made from a 2 dollar hammer a broken 4 way lug wrench and ¼ inch square bar. The bottom end has a chisel for splitting rocks and can be used as a pry bar. The socket was cut above the start of the shaft. Then both sides of the hammer head was welded. The square bar was welded on and the shaft was ‘rough’ welded to aid in gripping the hammer. That. and, I am not so good at welding. The spike was made long so that it can be used for digging and if it breaks there will be enough left to reshape it.

This is no more than a 1735 +- RPM motor with a machined attachmentadapter that will allow a chuck to be installed. A 1735 +- RPM motor more friendly speed than a 3600 RPM motor, at least for me. with a buffer wheel attached These are a few grinder, buffer and shaping wheels The gold wheel is diamond coated, it will sharpen tungsten carbide drill bits. It will also cut and shape stone and bone. (typo corrected a drill is the machine)

you might like this: http://thecmp.org/Sales/askarmoreranswerwood_cleaning_article.htm#1, for military preserving rifle stocks.

As has been mentioned on other places on this site: Let the fork lightly rust and use Phosphoric acid, Phosphoric acid is sold in hardware stores as rust converter. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid

You might like this: bradken.com/documents/our-company/bradken_history.pdf?sfvrsn=1

It will probably work very well. It is to be mounted on pole. The tang bent tip is inserted into a hole and the tang is wire wrapped or banded to the pole. Then one would find a pine tree, peel bark to allow the gum to run into a gum cup. That is the first stage of making turpentine or to get raw rosin. see: http://www.wikihow.com/Tap-a-Pine-Tree

I bought these suspenders at a discount sale and the leather at a leather outlet for shoe repairers. The suspenders appear to be intended for firemen.

Making Steel Bamboo by Bill Roberts http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4MF7HO-0kY

I have seen several posts about using galvanized pipe and galvanized fittings when building forges and burners. I have built three burners for gas forges (two are Mr. Frost’s design). I cannot easily get short threaded pieces of black pipe nor fittings. I have used stainless pipe and fittings. Stainless is more expensive than black pipe, but it seems to last a lot longer, with no problems.

This guy turned out well, as did you knife.

This is my relatively new, to me anvil. It is a 105 pound Vulcan (ratmeat). As it is staying in one place and I don’t have access to a large stump I used a I-beam and concrete. It has fair rebound and is quiet. The edges near the horn is chipped, but there enough sharper edges to work with. There is no vibration when the face is used, the horn will vibrate if struck sharply. The rust is gone, washed it with Turco. I have used this anvil for the past several weeks and have no complaint. Now for a question: how is a Fisher a “better anvil” than a Vulcan? I like the basic shape of both.

I have a question, especially as Njanvilman on this page. How is Fisher anvils so different from Vulcan anvils?

Here is another book it is from Gutenberg NAVAJO SILVERSMITHS. by Dr. WASHINGTON MATTHEWS, http://www.gutenberg.org/files/17275/17275-h/17275-h.htm#xviii

2 five gallon buckets with bails

Actually, it is not my idea. I saw on a woodworking site a year or two ago. It does work.

One powder you might like to try is the powder from a black laser printer cartridge. This will make clear epoxy dull black. I have not had any bad experience with this mixture.

I have used this formular and found it to 'work as advertised'. Try it before before using, as it might not work for you. "Flame Resistant" mix 4 ounces of Boric Acid, 9 ounces of borax with one Gallon of Water. Soak the cotton or other simular type of material gloves, cotton pants, apron in the mixture. Dry before using. This not fire proof, but it will withstand flame for an reasonable amount of time.

I have in the past, used an angle grinder to grind a slot length wise in the tang. Then drill the scales and fill the slot with epoxy or whatever. Then clamp the scales. Then place the pins in. After the epoxy hardens peen the pins or not.