caotropheus

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Everything posted by caotropheus

  1. Several years ago I saw a Youtube video of a guy hardening a 200 kg block of air hardening steel. He heat up one of the top faces of the block and then let it cool down. I cannot find the video, the title was just the series number generated by the camera. He adapted a fire wood stove as a forge, welded some brackets to the block to be able to handle it, set an hoist on top of the forge and let few weed burners work for several hours to warm up the block. Then he hoisted the block, removed "forge" from underneath and let it air cool for many hours. And yes, there was some hardness added to the heat treated face, but not as hard as you would expect. If the price is right, I would go for a professional heat treater. By the way, did you check all faces of the block to check if there is any harder area?
  2. I had bad experiences trying to weld spring steel. I tried to build twice an anvil with leaf spring face and the plate detached it self from the anvil upon some hammering. Take a look at this thread if you want some ideas for improvised anvils. Take a good look at this thread and read with detail what people write about their improvised anvils
  3. These are just some examples on how to dress and fit your hammer to your personal preferences but there are many more videos.
  4. caotropheus

    The New Vise

    Jim is right, forget the casters. The vice needs to be firmly secured to work as a vice. if it wonders around and/or it is not a solid base to hammer on and twist steel, it will not be useful as a blacksmith tool.
  5. caotropheus

    Post vise info

    I suggest you clean threads rust with a round wire brush set on a drill before try to thread the leg. Apply some grease when you thread the leg.
  6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qw3YbLHY9rw Posted it today...
  7. If you search google for "blacksmith books free download" you will see several results for XIX century books
  8. caotropheus

    The New Vise

    To degrease I use turpentine, paint thinner, soap and water That RR track can make a nice post for the vice as well...
  9. What is better than an anvil? Two or more...Go ahead and ask.
  10. I am no expert and I cannot precise the vice age, but it does not look that old. Assuming most components are original, if you look to the mounting plate and to the spaces underneath the jaws + bolts and nuts (most probably to mount "pipe jaws"), the symmetry of the vice, it looks it was made by XX century machinery, most probably, well into the XX century... The blue colour looks like original paint. By the way, the mounting plate is upside down...
  11. caotropheus

    Lever Press?

    I saw this idea in historic olive presses. After crunching the olives between two stones, the pulp was placed under a press very similar to mpc design. The distance from the fulcrum to the edge of the lever where pressure was applied ("pulled by fat guy") was about 10 times greater than the distance from the fulcrum to the "metal smasher". The lever was massive, made of wood of course, a whole tree trunk, 400 to 500 mm across. Now, there was no "fat guy pulling" but workers would pile hundreds of kg of stones to reach the desired pressure on the olive pulp to extract liquids. The press was left with this setup for several hours until no more liquid could be extracted. The point is that all this setup was massive and used in very soft materials like olive pulp and took a lot of time and man power to attain the required pressures. If it would work for smithing most certainly our ancestors would have developed a system to use levers like in mpc design. Compact ways of achieving mechanically these high pressures in small usable spaces and in one effective way are flypresses, eccentric presses, power hammers and such...
  12. A friend called me saying that he saw two shafts "big diameter" in his village junk yard. 3.20 m long, 120 mm diameter, estimate weight 280 kg per shaft. They come from a local plastic industry. Getting ready to cut the first shaft in half to take home, of course, do not forget PPE. 35 min cutting and ready to go home
  13. Nice vice. You just need to forge a spring. If possible, show us more detailed pictures.
  14. Got my self yet another German bench vice for repair. All components are seized, even the handle. it is an Heuer Front 180. Considering the corrosion, it looks like it was in a fire, at least the front part. Now, lets take it apart...
  15. mpc You may use a Heuer made in Germany bench vice (forged steel) but most probably will cost much more then a leg vice, so take into consideration the suggestions previously offered. One guy on Youtube made really nasty testes to several bench vices and the Heuer Front 120 (one of the little ones) was the second best. The best vice was one that he built him-self, several times bigger. If you want to build your own vice, go to Youtube and type "homemade diy vise", or "homemade diy blacksmith vise". You will have hundreds of videos.
  16. Peppie, this project is coming along really nice...who knows in the future if I am going to be accused of piracy for copying your ideas...
  17. I second Mr. McPherson answer. Always 100 % full penetration. I suppose you saw my Youtube videos on how I built my anvils, I welded with 7018 rods and I used a 3 phase arc welding machine that gives me 250 Amps, power supply 380 V 3 X 16 Amp duty cycle 100% at 180 Amp. I used 4 mm rods rated for 140 -190 amps. With my machine I could have used 5 mm rods rated for 240 Amps but I did not want to burn neither the welding machine nor the electricity wiring at home. If you can use bigger diameter rods even better, you will finish your work faster. To use machinery that require more Amperage I am changing now my power supply from 3X 220V 25 Amp to 3X 220 V 40 Amp. As I said before, in my area anvils are extremely expensive and it is cheaper for me to build an anvil if I can source the right materials from the local junkyard. Rods, discs and electricity at my place are also fairly cheap. I takes a long time, but I am stubborn enough to weld an anvil together and when you finish it it gives you a huge satisfaction and sense of accomplishment. So go forward with your project but if you do not show us pictures/videos, it did never happened...
  18. I do not intend to hijack the thread, but I saw the mathematical explanation and what laws of physics are applied to justify why you should weld steel blocks vertically to make an anvil. Sorry I do not have a link...
  19. Justwood&iron Quenching 200 kg of steel is not that easy. If you quench that mass of steel in oil you may cause a fire, even worse you may burn your self and people around you. I suggest you hard face the anvil with arc welding rods. Here is the method http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm I built my own anvils and I hardfaced with air hardening rod locally manufactured. You can see how I did it and hopefully improve my ideas. Good luck https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSpXA0b33Fg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1-gk6W5Qrs By the way, if you do not show us pictures/video of your anvil construction, it did never happened.
  20. Terrible idea as an anvil. The teeth are hollow and upon hammering all welds will crack... Get the 30 kg cast steel anvil.
  21. I tried to leave the vice as close to the original version as possible. Sorry purists for welding the stopper pin for the thrust washer and plug weld the holes that were there. I think I am still missing two components, shields, one for the screw (like Heph showed us) and one for the thrust washer like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUeL3P2h3Yk min 0:17 and 1:51. With time I will fix that. First lets go ahead and fabricate a stand for the vice. Guys, the gap I am referring to when the jaws are closed, is from top view. The edges of the jaws touch but there is a small gap (less than 1 mm) in the middle, you can pass there a piece of paper
  22. Finally finished all the cleaning and reassembled the vice. Electrolysis took a long time. Upon better inspection, you can see the grain structure of the wrought iron. The jaws are parallel but slightly misaligned in the height, about 1 mm and you can see a gap between the jaws when fully closed. I forged a wedge to lock the pivot pin And I welded a stopper for the thrust washer (if you are a purist, look away now!) The vice feels very solid and the operation is very smooth. The movable jaw does not wiggle at all sideways. Hope you enjoyed the project, I am only sorry I do not have/had wrought iron to make the missing pieces. How old do you guys think this vice is? thanks
  23. What is better than doing something? Overdoing it!
  24. So Thomas Powers, you think I have here a wrought iron vice? To confirm, I can always put a portion inside acid an see what happens...
  25. After some rust cleaning electrolysis you can see details on how the vice was forged. These pictures were taken before applying oil on the surface.