Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

Would love to see a picture with the anvil mounted. If it's a little too high you can always make a platform to stand on for heavier work. A little too low and make a shim between the stand & anvil. BTW... Welcome aboard IFI.

Welcome aboard... We all deserve a little jab once in a while. Have you read the "Read This First" thread that's up in the blue banner. It's full of tips like how to do the most effective search like Thomas did. Other tips like editing your profile to show your location as so many answers depend upon knowing where in the world you are. Some of the tips may help in staying off the moderators radar.

You can get a short piece of automotive exhaust pipe that your burner will fit in from any muffler shop. They usually have a cut off bin. Cut one end down (make 4 slots) and bend them out to make a flange that you bolt to the forge body with self tapping bolts.

Welcome aboard... Have you read the Read This First thread up in the banner? It will help you get the best out of the forum wit a lot of tips.

Welcome aboard Garrett, it also has a lot to do about where in the world you are located. Coil springs in the British Isles or in Russia, China and many other places will be made from different alloys. Hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show where you are located as many answers depend upon that. Have you read the "Read This First" thread at the top banner?

I got to thinking we don't have a thread about special hammers you have and why you love them. Doesn't matter if you made them or not. I have two. Number 1 a 2- 1/5 pound cross pein, nothing special about it except it belonged to my grandfather and it's my go to hammer in the forge, had to re-handle it last year. Number 2 a 3- 7/8 pound dogs head with a slightly angled face. It was given to me by Ike Doss in "85. I don't know if he made it or not but it was old when I got it. I think it's a sawyers hammer. I don't use it much due to the weight but it will draw steel out like crazy. Out of all the hammers I have, those are my favorites.

Welcome...That is a good looking stand but like frosty said a stand should be made to the proper height for you and it will be hard to find an anvil that will fit it. I see a moderator has edited your post for several problems and you may get a warning about it. Don't take it personally though we all have been spanked for messing up. You may want to click in the Read This First tab at the top of the page (if you haven't already). Looking forward for more about finding an anvil and starting to beat hot steel on it.

WD40 is not a very good penetrating oil. A better one would be Kroil depending on where in the world you are located most auto parts stores will have it. Another easy mixture is a 50/50 mix of Dexron ATF and acetone. Both will penetrate much better if you are bound and determined to take the fan off, which I don't recommend. The fan is just stamped sheet metal with the blades twisted and it's easy and better to align the blades while on the shaft. That way you can gauge how close they are to the main housing. If they need twisting a small pair of channel locks will do it and if they are just bent out light taps with a small hammer will set them back. If they are bent back you can just pry them out with a screw driver against the housing. How much end play does the shaft have. The adjuster screw & nut control's the end play. If you rotate the handle clockwise the gear will pull the fan back to the main housing, a counter clockwise rotation pushes the shaft and fan to the outer housing. If you back the adjusting screw off, you can push the fan back and forth. With the adjuster backed off the fan blades should clear the main housing by about a quarter inch. I set mine with about a sixteenth of an inch end play. From your pictures it's hard to tell which way they need to be adjusted.

I think the covid-19 lock down has a lot to do with feeling depressed, I'm in the same boat about putting off things lately. My first episode was in "89 when my mentor was hit by a car & passed away. This feels the same to me.

We just bought a CHEFMAN Belgian waffle maker. Makes the best round waffles I've ever made. Chop up some pecans, add to the mix and smother them with real stick butter and pure maple syrup mmmm good. Our old waffle maker is a 4 square 40 year old Kenmore, makes OK waffles but can't hold a candle to the new one.

I remember my grandfather telling about changing the tires on the Army's Ford TT trucks when he was in the Poncho Villa campaign. He said it was easier than putting the iron tires on the wagons but don't remember him describing the rim tool.

I had to Google it. On my second round of chemo, I took the dog clippers at the shortest setting to my hair that started falling out. Got to wear a durag for the remainder. When my hair grew back in it was basically white and my wife says it grew in all wack-o-weedo. She retired as a hairdresser (sold her shop) and has cut my hair for the past 20 years.

The next step after a forehead.

Also why do you want to remove it in the first place?

I did a quick search and came up with several thread about the Fulton anvils. Here is but one. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/8180-fulton-anvil-general-info/?tab=comments#comment-79447

You are absolutely correct, just googled "split rim tool for model T" and there it was.

You didn't hurt it a bit with the WD40. Trying to cobble together a stand out of that old half rotten light pole would be more trouble than it's worth (IMHO) I would pick up some 4x4s and bolt them together with threaded rod. Have you looked at the "Show me your anvil stands" thread lots of good ideas there.

I believe it's called a timber dog, for binding timber together in the logging industry, for transport on sleds or rail cars.

You have built a good looking forge there. I agree with Latticino and take any steps recommended one step at a time and take notes.

You can take the chance, but for me and anyone who asks me, I should be fine is never good enough. I would never use anything toxic without proper PPE like in this case a respirator. My brother used to restore old tractors. In the process he worked with toxic materials. He always said working outside with them was safe. He passed away from COPD after about ten years and he never smoked. End of lecture. https://www.osha.gov/dts/shib/respiratory_protection_bulletin_2011.html

You have to use tin foil aluminum paint.

I believe you have a Champion 140 blower. Have you tried adjusting the end play of the shaft? BTW... welcome aboard, have you read the Read This First thread at the top of the page? It will help you get the best out of the forum like how to do the most effective search. Here is but one thread about them. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/60037-identification-of-champion-blower/

There are even special vises called a chipping vise.

That and it's smaller diameter may be difficult to hold steady. If that turns out to be true just back off on the twist a little to open it up. If it's OK like it is "never mind".

Thinking in milling the face of an old anvil, is like wanting to "restore" an old painting with a rag soaked in turpentine. ~ Marc1