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Found 30 results

  1. A buddy of mine is giving me a champ no 40. I have two champ 400s. One I am trying to rebuild as a back up. I am trying to research if the the 40 is older or newer than the 400. I suspect older. But can anyone tell me the difference? potential age?, parts interchangeable?, flow capacity? Here is a pic. I have done several searches but have not founf anything on when things were built and how the two compare. He said it blew well and was pretty quiet. mostly a whoosh/purr of air and not gravely sounding.
  2. I would like more information if anyone has it on this blower I purchased for $100 bucks today. Can’t seem to find a date on it or model number.
  3. My girlfriend and I bought this blower at an antique shop with the intent of restoring it to use. In trying to look up the manufacturer so I could watch some youtubes, I noticed we had stumbled on an oddity or rarity of some sort. Note how it looks almost exactly like a Champion No. 40, but lacks a couple characteristic curvy bits and the obvious complete lack of "Lancaster" anywhere on it. Nowhere I've looked (mostly google), and no one I've asked (a couple of librarians, a historian, and a couple facebook groups) seems to have any information on it. The Athens Hardware Company absolutely had the manufacturing capability to make their own case and probably even to make a Champion knockoff. I'm pretty convinced it's a Champion #40 rebranded other at Champion or at Athens Steam Company for Athens Hardware Company. I took these 6 pictures of different parts. Can anyone look at their Champion No. 40 and confirm for me that it is the same? Thanks, Keith
  4. New here. I'm looking for advise on fixing this up. The fan is free but the crank is locked up, I know ill have to t take it apart. Anyone have suggestions on what to do or where to start?
  5. Hello, So I just got a champion midway spiral gear blower for free, but is has one two problems. The first one is that its missing a bearing/bushing. this size of the shaft that needs a bushing is 3/8 and this size of where it needs to be the overall diameter is 7/8 and an inch deep. So I was thinking can I just use a 3/8 bearing? The second problem is that the impeller shaft seems to be a little loose, but when it has the impeller screwed on it doesn't, do I need to worry about this?
  6. Howdy, I recently picked up a champion blower and was wondering if anyone had some information on the model and how to tear it down. I took it apart today to do a little cleaning but I couldn't get the fan off and the slotted screws inside the cover were frozen solid (letting some penetrating oil work on them tonight). Please correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like someone peened the shaft over the fan (won't move with set screw taken out). Any info would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
  7. A while back I bought for $65 a forge blower; and have been restoring it ever since. I've been attempting to remove both the grease and rust without power tools (since I'm a broke teenager), with electrolysis and simple green and a wire brush for months now. Here are some of the parts after I've cleaned them up a bit: Funny thing is that I can hardly find any information about the forge blower anywhere on the internet. Perhaps a couple listings on ebay, but that's about it. Gear casing that I just separated today. Any ideas of how I can weld the broken piece back on? Recently removed stand Not sure if I can do electrolysis on this fan. The gear is stuck. By that I mean that I can't get it out, but with the handle attached and the other gear installed, it spins rather well. I just want to get it out along with the worm gear so I can actually remove the grease and rust. This and going to the hardware store (at the start of the school year) are my only two obstacles currently. Also acquiring/building a forge without welding equipment. The stand has a rusty bolt that I was able to loosen a tad bit after doing likely the sketchiest electrolysis cleaning ever with the entire stand in a garbage can with holes in the bottom and double lined with garbage bags. Any suggestions on how I can push out the axle pin on the inner gear or the brass bushings would be wonderful. Rust/Grease removal as well, including information about this particular blower.
  8. is this the right tuyere for this forge? I have searched and searched for a good image of the tuyere for this type of forge and haven't seen anything that looks common. The way this sits on here it wouldn't see to work as efficiently as one that would sit flat and seal the air blowing around the edges. Maybe I am wrong as I am just starting. If this isn't correct please let me know. Please post a pic if you have a forge like this and the tuyere is different. This is is the way it came. This is is with the tuyere flipped over. Close up up of the raised design.
  9. Does anyone have or have information on a Champion Whirlwind 712 forge pot? I recently acquired one that is missing the clinker breaker but is in otherwise great shape. I would like to know a few things... of what material should the clinker breaker be made so as to sink less heat from my fire and does anyone have a picture of one of these fire pots? (here is a picture of one like mine only with the clinker breaker but I cannot see it well enough to copy its design) Thank you in advance for your kind consideration, Bill
  10. Hi, I was recently lucky enough to purchase a Champion 400 blower and Whirlwind firepot at auction. Both are in great shape, having just the usual rust, dirt, grease, etc. I do however need to make two adjustments to the blower. I've researched everything on the 400 on this site and others but can't seem to figure out the answer. Adjustment 1: I assume since the brass gear is concave on the working part that it should set directly above the worm gear. Mine is off toward the inside so that only the outside of the brass gear is touching. When looking down from the top, I can see a lot of the worm from one side and nothing from the other. I removed the set screw and tried to nudge the gears over but they won't move. There are a lot of warnings about forcing so I decided best to ask. So how do I move this gear over? Adjustment 2: The main shaft the fan is attached to has a lot of play. Everything looks to be fine so I figured I could place a 3/4" socket on the back and 1" socket on the front and tighten them together to snug everything up. They won't budge. And just as above, there are warnings about putting too much force on the shaft, so thought better to ask. So how do I tighten up the bearings? As always, thanks for the help and for IFOREGEIRON! Kent.
  11. In the process of reassembling my Champion No. 400 forge blower after tearing it down and cleaning it up, I managed to mess up the end of the large gear shaft and now I can't thread the cone nut on to it. Does anyone happen to have a spare gear shaft (the one that is 7" long that the large gear fits on to) that they would be willing to sell? I was hoping someone had a Champion 400 in bad shape that they scavenged parts out of. I checked eBay and there is nothing there. I took it to a machine shop and he said that cutting 1/4 to 1/2 inches off the end was the only option. Not sure that leaves enough threads on the handle end for the cone nut and top nut. I would appreciate any help in finding one.
  12. Can anyone tell me about the history of the forge in the attached photos? Seems like a mysterious topic from what I've read thus far. Surely someone out there knows when this was made and for whom. Extra point for a link to documentation (tech manuals, etc). Thank you.
  13. I have a Champion 400 blower that is in need of an overhaul and I need a little advice on part of the tear down. I've got everything disassembled except for the bronze worm gear. I can't seem to figure out exactly how it comes out of the housing. I've removed the square head screw holding the gear to the shaft, but my problem is that I can't see how to pull the shaft. It looks like there are two plugs on either side of the housing (under the bearing caps) that may come out with a spanner wrench of some sort (threaded in?), or maybe I need to jack one side out using the tapped holes. For anyone who is familiar with this blower, do you have any advice on how to get the shaft out of the housing? I would rather go into this knowing how it is put together so I don't do any damage. (Sorry, no pictures available, it was too late when I finished stripping the thing down.) John
  14. Hello! I'm a working with an elderly neighbor who has an old Champion Blower and Forge Co. No. 50 Blower attached to his coal forge. We need to purchase a new speed control, but we are unsure of how many AMPs the blower motor uses. The only information on the outside of the motor is "NO. 8220" and "110 Volts." Does anyone know how many AMPs this motor uses? Anyone know how we can find out? I'm sorry if my terminology is incorrect. I'm pretty young and very new to smithing and electrical work. Thank you your help! Best, J. Schlesinger Illinois
  15. I picked up this beauty at an estate auction this weekend. There was a bunch of smithing equipment but they waited to present the forges and other big items until the end of the day. Worked out very well for me and my buddy. We came home with a truckload of three forges, three extra blowers, and a pair of rusty 5" post vises, all for under $200. Everything appears to work, just needs a bit of clean up, a new drive belt, and some tweaking of the pump arm. I can't wait to get my new toy back into action. I really enjoy the old mechanical workings like this one has. The blower is a Champion. The blower and forge appears to be all original, so I assume the forge is a Champion as well. Haven't had an opportunity to look it over close enough to find any other markings, if there are any. If anyone recognizes the model or has a rough idea on age, I'd love to hear about it.
  16. While picking up some coal this weekend, I also happened upon a Champion blower. From what I can tell it is the 140 / Eureka model. The issue with it is that the output shaft on the fan has so much play that the fan scrapes and rattles on every rotation. My question is what kind of bearing does this shaft run on and where might I find a suitable replacement?
  17. Today I want to share with you all the forge that I constructed from scrap lumber, steel fence-posts and wire mesh, all found around my house. The screws were mostly extras that my dad had laying around, and everything was done with minimal tools. I want to show what CAN be done, and that you don't have to go fancy to make beautiful artwork. First of all, after I first bought my Champion 400 blower and Whirlwind Firepot, I knew I needed a place to put them, so that I could forge efficiently. This was my original set up. I did work like this for about 6 or 7 months, which was a real drag. The fuel always fell out of the heap, as you can see from the bricks surrounding the pot. So, with a little help from my dad, we scrounged some scrap wood and built this table: As you can see, the forge is wood, with a plywood top and adobe/mud topped with firebricks. This was amazing, forging on top of this puppy. Unfortunately, the first forging only lasted a few minutes... We have smoke! Ignition! Fire! So, this forge caught fire. The plyboard was only an inch away from a hot firepot, and so it reached critical temperatures.... Back to the drawing board! I knew that I was not going back to this rubble pile of a forge. It was just plain inconvenient! So, I measured, and began to cut the fence posts! The fence posts spanned the wood, now devoid of the plywood. Note the T shape of the fence posts: I had to cut a notch to accommodate the posts in each piece of wood. A test fitting of my firepot! This is the general idea of my wooden forge. There is between 8 and 12 inches from the wood to the firepot in any direction. The next step, accomplished many months later, when the snow was long gone: I covered the whole thing with wire mesh, and doused it with dissolved borax in water. Its a fireproofing thing. The back needed to be cut out, and so I did that and added reinforcements so it didn't cave in. I used old flex tubing for the air pipe. It works great! This is the underside. I added cut open steel food cans as deflectors to reflect the heat back from the wood. This added layer of insurance is great, it works like a charm. It is tied with wire to the mesh up top. The forge, finished for now, and with a bright fire licking coal smoke off those smooth black rocks. The fire bricks are movable and temporary. I am not quite done modifying the forge; I would like a steel top rather than the wire mesh, but that will come whenever I can find a filing cabinet or a washing machine shell... Here's the whole smithy, under the sprawling elm tree or whatever the poet wrote. I'd rather have a roof. After the fire was all raked away. The mesh holds the coal well enough! A view of the ash dump, held there by wire. Slightly primitive, but its what I've got. A view of the underside after I raked away the coals. The blower, the thing that makes it hotttttt!!! This is how I have my blower mounted: I have the feet cut off and the tube goes straight int the stump, which has holes drilled to accommodate the piping. There was enough airflow to keep the coals glowing hot for a little while. Amazing! Thus, I completed my forge, in all of its glory! Its not DONE, but its getting there. I just wanted to share this with everyone, contstructive criticism is appreciated, and I wanted to encourage those who don't have welding experience that they can build a workable forge! ~Ridgewayforge
  18. Hello everyone, I believe this is my first post on I Forge Iron. I am in some need of some help and advice. I purchased a rough Champion 401 rivet forge from a blacksmith in Townsend, DE for about $50. The blower is in pretty much mint condition, minus the wasp's nests and caked on grease and dirt I cleaned out of the fan area. The rusted out legs were basically fused into the mounting brackets, but managed to free them and replace them (took a month of chiseling and filing). I will be replacing the rusted out, paper thin base pan bottom with a new 1/8" thick plate. The only problem I am having is that the end of the blower tube and the front part of the frame is rotted. Is there anyone out there with a 401 frame and a matching blower tube that I can buy. There is a guy who lives four and a half hours from where I live that has what I need but refuses to mail it to me unless I pay double for it. He was asking $50 if I were to go there and take the blower he wants off it, but said last night that if he has take it off himself and ship it to me he is going to charge $100 (not including shipping). I just can't see justifying a final cost of around $150 for 1/5 of a forge that usually goes for $200 to $300. Driving there would cost basically the same. Can one be made? I am always up to a challege and I am not worried about historical preservation of the forge. I have a plan to make multiple style base pans for it and have it to be easliy swappable depending on the project. I will post pictures of what I have as soon as I get them taken and loaded.
  19. I recently bought a nice champion forge blower. It runs smooth, throws a lot of air and cleaned up pretty nice. The only problem is when you let go of the crank, and the fan slows down, it sounds like the blades are hitting the inside of the housing. It is only when you let go. When you crank it its squared up and doesn't make contact. The crank does have some play. There does seem to be some sort of spacer where the crank enters the housing, but its pretty thin and worn out. Should that be there or did the previous owner add that? Any idea how to fix this wobble or what might be causing it? I'd hate to keep running it this way and destroy the blades. Any idea what model this? It doesn't appear to have one on the casing like some do. Thanks for the help.
  20. My son and I just found our first forge after months of searching. :D Craigslist to the rescue! Only had to pay $250 for the whole thing! I was very happy to find this complete setup in what I think is great condition as there are no cracks or rust through, and the blower system runs! My next step is to effect repairs and get this working. My son is really interested in blacksmithing and knife making so now we start on a new hobby together. Now the questions: 1) The firepot used to have a surrounding material that brought the table level with the pot and also matched the slope into the tapered sides into the fire area. What do I use to build this up again. I hope the photos will help see what I mean. Something needs to be there as the edges of the pot are 1 to 2 inched higher than the table. 2) Do I need to do the entire table surface or just a surround of the pot, then level the rest with a firebrick/sand(or nothing) ? I would think the entire surface should be essentially flat and level to make moving coal into the pot easier. 3) What is the original purpose of the accessory bin that hangs on the side of the forge table? Was it to hold more coal, or as a quenchant/water trough, or tool holder? I keep browsing this site and others for tips but these little setup things are eluding me right now. I am sure other questions will arise over time but I will start small right now. Thanks for any assistance. Rex and Derek