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I Forge Iron


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  • Location
    Perryville, MD
  • Interests
    My wife and children, guitar, hunting, fishing,
  • Occupation
    Artist Blacksmith

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  1. First post from me in several years. I installed my Niles Bement 800. I know Michael has been calling his a 750 but the factory literature I found says 800. I have it running on a 125 cfm diesel screw compressor with a 1000 gallon reserve tank. I need more like 400 cfms because I can only run it continually for about a minute. I can run it single blow style a lot longer.
  2. This is my current forge. Very large. 3 cubic foot burn chamber. 28" × 20" floor. The problem with the explosion I had on a smaller forge like yours and it corrected with the moon bounce blower.
  3. I had the same problem a few years ago. It scared the crap out of me. Based upon my experiences with ribbon burners I see 2 problems. First that blower is way inadequate. I tried about 5 different blowers on my forge and had mixed results. That type of blower does not put out the volume and pressure you need. Air volume is key to a good burn. I am using a moon bounce blower like for a kids yard moon bounce. Sounds crazy but it works awesome and corrected the blow back explosion problem. In a couple hundred hours since going to a moon bounce I've never had one explosion. Secondly I think your pipe is way too short. You are right you need to extend the pipe and the gas inlet down lower to allow for a longer mix before hitting the burn chamber. I have my pine ridge LP390 mounted top instead of side like you have. But I don't think that's your problem. Address those 2 things and I'll be amazed if you're not running beautifully. Don't give up on it. Ribbon burners are awesome. Good luck and be safe. Matt
  4. That's a Nazel, you can tell from the casting styling. Also the treadle counterweight is a Nazel casting
  5. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2SRjNpJLmCc This guy has a bunch of steam hammer videos posted. Looks like Steve Parker, and sounds like Clifton Ralph's voice in the background. Anyhow neat videos and it looks like a 600 lb. or 800 lb. Niles hammer.
  6. I'm not sure if I got that key or not. I've got a tool box of miscellaneous parts, probably in there, my buddy saved everything. I cleaned the oiler out and degreased and cleaned it. Then put a new coat of paint on it today. Here it is cleaned up. Need a new sight glass for the top, the old one is cracked out, might use some clear poly pipe and make a top for it.
  7. That's because your crazy :-) Come over and hammer on the 2b and see if you feel the same.
  8. Hope you all had a great 4th! It has taken a ton of degreasing, scrubbing, needle scaling and wire brushing, but here she is, with the first coat of paint. A dark blue, all the linkage and treadle will be a bright orange red color. Michael, the sow block measures, 20" square, and is 12-1/2" tall, minus the two dovetails. I calculate the weight of the sow block to be about 1200 lbs. I can't wait to dig :) I decided on a new foundation
  9. Thanks for the info. I just remembered that you had to fab your sow block so the dimensions will be different as far as the set below the floor. But thanks for the 35" measurement. I can easily figure out the height as the die and sow block are sitting in the anvil now. I was just wondering what your working height is.
  10. Michael, I was looking at your pictures on page 5 of your Niles anvil before the concrete pour. It looks like the top of the wide flange on the anvil is level or a few inches below your floor. I'm guessing the height of your bottom die is about 35" to 36" from the floor. If that's correct, doesn't feel a bit high for that size hammer to you? I have my Nazel 2B at 35" but it's less than a quarter of the Niles in size. I am thinking of shooting for 32" to 33" on the Niles, the same as my anvil. I am also considering pulling the Nazel and mounting it on a steel plate as many have. I like that setup and this would let me set the Niles on the existing Nazel foundation. It can handle it as the Nazel foundation now is 8 ft. By 9 ft, and 7 ft. Deep.
  11. Getting ready to dig. :) Meanwhile, the timbers are being cut from some oak logs. :) I will post some pictures as I go along.
  12. My quest for the perfect ribbon burner forge led me to buy the largest LP series burner from Pine Ridge Ribbon burners. Needless to say I am extremely impressed by the way it was made and the way it burns. Well worth the money. As far as the hammers blow design goes, I think the refractory I was originally using was 2500 degree, not 3000. Big mistake and explains why the first 2 I made cracked out. I am casting a new one with the 3000 refractory I picked up, and I plan on having more steel fingers come down into the mold for a better meld between the steel and refractory.
  13. That piece, titled "large air hammer" looks very cool. Not sure it is an air hammer though. Update on my progress. I have the hammer cleaned and I'm preparing to paint it. My philosophy on these old machines is that a lifetime of service in a usually industrial setting gives them the right to a good cleaning and repaint. I'm still deciding upon the location of the hammer, it will either be in the forging section of the old shop or in the new shop. I'm awaiting approval of a 40 x 60 addition to the existing shop. I will know if that has been approved in a week. Best to you all, stay hydrated :)
  14. Danger, without taking it out of the piston guide, I don't know the exact weight. But my calculations have it between 750 and 800. All of the catalogs that I have seen did not list a 700 or 750 model. I think we have the same exact model that was sold as an 800 lb. hammer. That catalog I posted in the steam hammer thread has the sizes. Not to say that they didn't make some other sizes not listed there. But I think we have what they sold as a 800
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