Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

For our portable vise I used an old automotive flywheel, scrounged from a scrap steel bin for the base. The rest of the stand is also scrounged material. For stability when using it on dirt, I forged some spikes that are driven through the holes in the flywheel for stability. On hard surfaces a plate that gets bolted to the flywheel I can stand on.

Have you done a search for Plistix 900 F kiln wash?

I found that when working with people under pressure, I usually could talk them into opening the valve to vent. Some times my guys were amazed how I could get them into the patrol car without fighting.

Opening the valve first is a given, I should have mentioned that because there are some folks not smart enough to realize that. But then they should not be using dangerous equipment at all.

Better yet remove the valve. I've cut a few tanks and always get that pucker factor even with the valve removed.

Auto Zone should have acetone and Dexron automatic transmission fluid, in quart cans, so does Walmart. A 50/50 mix of that will out preform any commercial mix penetrating oil on the market. I put the mixture in a small spray bottle and label it.

I have always understood the tuyere should be sloped downward not up. I put the tuyere mounted in another pipe, so it can be moved forward or easily replaced as the end burns off.

I don't have many pictures showing the shop, especially organization which doesn't exist in mine. However I know where everything is so I don't have to spend a lot of time looking for stuff. We just added a 12X14 foot addition, making the shop 10 foot wide by 42 feet long and the pictures show a lot of disorganization as I move stuff around. Looking at the power hammer & coal forge. We also have an outside pad that we roll the propane forge out to when using it. The anvil is now mounted to a wood stump like the improvised anvil is on. Looking in the outside door at the new addition area on the far end. Another shot with that half wall removed. The other side with the garage where the grinder's, welder's and mechanical tools are located. The addition to the blacksmith shop is on the right. Still a lot to do with it as far as organizing stuff.

I was going to suggest raising the tuyere.

I made mine from glued laminated wood bolted to a V-belt pulley, turned to diameter. Put a slight crown in the wood to help the flat belt stay on the pulley. You can use a V-belt, better to use two,matched belts. The nice thing about a flat leather belt is no need to disassemble anything to install/change it.

How did you check the bearings? If it has Babbitt or Bronze bearings, I can guarantee that they suffered damage in the fire, Babbitt may have actually melted away.

Is your "mini-sledge" actually a hammer like a drilling 3 pounder?

I have used several commercial forges that had a spark igniter of some sort. The spark plug igniter worked for a while then quit working, the Piezo igniter never worked and both forges were regressed to using a propane torch to light them. We have a Piezo propane burner head that screws on to a standard propane bottle that we use to start the propane and coal forges.

Our Schnauzer Max, lived to a ripe old age on insulin. He was such a treat. He would go outside and pee into a cup on a handle so we could check his GL and if it dropped too low, he knew to go over to the cabinet where his Kayro syrup was and ask for it.

I don't know which penetrating oil you are using, but can tell ya that a 50/50 mix of Dexron transmission fluid and acetone will out preform any commercial oil (even Kroil) which is the best next to the mix.

It's about 10 gauge and very rigid, doesn't flex at all in use or transport. When it's packed up it takes two people to pick it up. That WWII Broad Arrow Forge is really neat, would love to have one myself.

That's the forge I was thinking of but couldn't find the pictures. I have an WWI Army Pack forge Made by Champion, which we use as a traveling forge to meetings & hammer in's.

When you post there is a check box at the bottom "Notify Me Of Replies" check it and you will get notified.

I clean mine with WD-40 and an old tooth brush, then wipe it good with an old T-shirt. Only have to do that if the stone starts to get clogged up, which doesn't happen if it well lubed while sharpening. Looking at the picture of yours it doesn't look worn or clogged.

First of all, we won't remember you are in Finland once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location. This thread Read This First located up in the blue banner explains how to get the best out of the forum. Second is all you have read about bottom blast VS side blast is true. Bottom works best with coal/coke and side blast is better with charcoal. With your sketch it should work but you don't need a sloping wall on the off side but it won't hurt. I have seen many side blast forges with both wall's at a slant and both straight, they all work very well. There is a thread by Charles Stevens with a steel side blast he built, I'll see if I can find it for you. The JABOD threads you have seen are built with wood boxes, hence the heavy insulation to prevent the wood from burning, not a problem with heavy steel plate. I couldn't find it maybe Charles will chime in and post some pictures. To answer the question about building a side blast without a bosh water cooled tuyere, is yes you can but the tuyere pipe will burn out eventually and is easy to replace. I make mine longer than needed and just push the tuyere farther in when the tip burns off.

If I needed another anvil and it checks out, I would pay the asking price. The edge in the picture is not bad enough to bother me. I have a Hay Budden with worse edge's and it does not cause any problems. As a matter of fact sharp edges on an anvil are a detriment to good forging.

In today's market $3 a pound is not out of line, however with the (minor) edge damage you may be able to haggle a little. I would offer $350 to see what happens. Make sure you tell the seller you intend to use it in your blacksmith shop as that has convinced some sellers to lower the asking price. Like Frosty said the ring & rebound would indicate the condition of the hardened face plate. From what I have read they are good anvils and fairly scarce. If you do a search with your favorite search engine like this Dunn and Murcott brooklyn ny iforgeiron.com there are about 5 threads about them. This is but one.

Our weather man uses models to predict the forecast. I think three and they are never right so we just send the weather dog out to check on the weather.

Have you read the Read This First thread located up in the blue banner. It is full of tips to help in getting the best out of the forum. One tip addresses using the @name tag.

It would definitely melt if left in the forge. Any way to set the sparker in the forge then pull it out after lighting the burner. A lot of folks just light a small ball of newspaper and toss it in the forge to light it.