Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

Yep and black walnut husks work even better.

Might try some vinegar for the etch.

We won't remember that once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show your location, as many answers depend on knowing it.

Try vinegar for the etch.

Welcome aboard... Can't help with the anvil info sorry, might help to know where it is located. From that picture it looks like a farriers anvil. What does it weigh? Do you have any more pictures? The help I can give is to suggest reading the Read This First thread up in the blue banner. Another thing is posting the same question in two different threads will almost always draw the attention of a moderator. Most of that is explained in the read this first thread which is full of tips on navigating the forum.

More commonly used as an auto-body mans hammer when autos were made of sheet metal that could be hammered back in shape instead of plastic.

If you do decide to go with a used anvil, there is nothing wrong with that. In my 30+ years of forging, I have never bought a new anvil and all 5 of the used ones are doing just fine and will probably serve the next generation of Smiths. Just post here with pictures and we can help you get a good one. This thread may help with the decision.

I think I have read somewhere the propane in Australia is a mix of propane and butane. If so it probably will affect the tuning of any burner.

I guess you have read about tuning it in the forge.

It looks like a 5 blade fan and one is missing to me.

Welcome aboard JON...Let us know what you are interested in making. Like George N.M. said a 77 pound anvil is a little light for general forge work. A Rigid-Peddinghaus anvil is indeed a very good anvil and I have worked on several over the years. It is too bad they don't offer one around 100-125 pounds, which make a better shop anvil. You might want to check out several U.S. makers who have started making anvils, several are IFI members. foundryguy with Holland anvils come to mind. Of course not knowing where in the world you are located, my suggestion may be worthless.

OK, I noticed mouse traps on both anvil stands, must be a new trend.

Welcome aboard... have you read the Read This First thread up in the blue banner. We won't remember your location once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it, as so many answers depend on knowing that.

Looks like a Trenton to me but can't make out the logo or weight to be sure.

Welcome aboard... I can't give a real good answer for burners made in OZ not knowing the availability of parts. But the Frosty T burner made in the U.S. will definitely get the forge up to welding temp, depending on the size of the burner and Cubic inches of the forge. In other words a small burner in a large forge won't work. That is covered here. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/44773-burner-to-cubic-inch-relationship/ Have you seen the OZ Roll Call thread down in Everything Else section great bunch of folks there. Also a thread that will help in getting the best out of the forum is the Read This First thread located up in the blue banner. We won't remember your location once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it.

They are just puppies compared to some of us.

I have three vehicles with antique tags and want a lot of money when I sell them.

I'd say Trenton too. The weight looks like 149 or 148 to me, the difference is probably due to what the factory used to weigh it and your scales. Still a good find. Hope you have read about not doing any grinding, milling or welding on the hardened face which looks good in the pictures.

Have you tried contacting KB Electronics?

It depends on how much grinding and what materials you plan on using. At bare minimum, use a N95 mask with exhaust valve and clear face shield, they are disposable and back in supply at OUR Harbor Freight. You might want to check with yours as they are still in short supply most every where and ours may be out again. What everyone is recommending is excellent for extended use with hazardous materials, but for my occasional use like on one knife every now & then the N95 works.

Welcome aboard... We won't remember that once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location as so many answers depend upon knowing where you are located. There is a thread Read This First up in the blue banner that will help you navigate the forum with lots of good tips.

A pretty good haul. Too bad someone bored such a large hole , probably for some specialty work. The smaller hole won't be a problem. If it were mine, I would find a piece of round stock to fit the large hole, split it in half length wise and drill a hole through it. Then drill and tap the jaws to make the round inserts as removable liners.

Sounds good, you might want to edit your post to remove the @name tag as outlined in this thread Using the @ name on the forum and the Read This First thread. You only have 30 min to edit though after that a moderator will have to do it.

Wow, never have I seen that. You wouldn't think a Ribbon burner would concentrate the flame to do that. My thinking is the hardware store inswool isn't a high enough temperature rating like Latticino said. You can get the correct blanket material here from Glenn in the Gas Forge Supplies up in the blue banner. Another good thread is the Read This First also in the banner. Don't know if you have seen it yet but it's full of tips for getting the best out of IFI. BTW: Welcome aboard, if you edit your profile to show your general location, you may be surprised how many members are near enough to lend a hand. If you were near me I have 2600 degree Kaowool that I could let you have enough to patch it up.

Probably what I would do.