bubba682

If your eyes are real bad try a fixed lens #9 alot of our older welders use them i run a miller speed lens #10 i find it bright there around a 100 bucks up here they should be a littler cheaper in the states.Most guys i work with up here run the millers in the cheap black hoods and we put a head lamp on the sheild so ya got light in a tight spot when ya need it.What heat (amps) ya running the 7018 at ?

What an animal for a hammer and look no ear plugs i wonder if its powered by 3 phase or hooked up direct to the power line.

LOL now he knows about cast iron as well, i got to quit drinking and typing...

You can buy the proper cast rods from your local welding supply shop they work good and you don't have to worry about a pre and post heat to much ,i still like to sweat it out before i weld cast.If 7018 is all ya got for that plug weld and the part is cast take your time and hopefully it doesn't become brittle.

I got the 33lb one and theres not much to them the motor bolts on the frame so theres no internal wiring and the parts are cheap the reason i know that is a guy up here rebuilt the head in his and it wasn't much as far as cost for parts.Since i live in Canada everything cost more so if its doable here for parts you should be ok and annyang isn't the only supplier for those parts. Mine is a different manufacturer but the parts are identical and interchangeable they are good hammers i would at least start pricing parts and tear it down to see whats damaged and whats not .

If the machine isn't high frequency tig your goin to have problems welding aluminum .

Great vids i think my big 33lb chinese power hammer would give theirs a run for the money lol...

Lol my bad i put the 2 in by mistake anyway i am still looking for a system thats cheap quiet and has the ability to work in my little area. Cheap being the important thing...

I started looking at options for ventilation in my shop as well right now i'm using an 8'' sucker like we use at work with 50' of vent hose which i put above where im welding and forging area and vent ouside.So far the co2 monitors are silent but i want a permanent overhead exhaust eventually.Cost ,noise and airflow are my three factors so i'm lookin for something cheap,quite and will work in a 24' by 24' shop.

I'VE got v dies on my press none on my hammer i like breaking down bigger material like truck springs with the press then going to the hammer to work the smaller stock if that helps aid your decision.

I'LL let ya's know how long the steel on a ribbon burner will last without refractory i'm doing a test now.I built mine out of a 2'' pipe coupler and a 1/4 plate welded to it with 25 1/4 holes drilled in it so far so good.I have been running it everyday since i built it at forging temp on 5 psi for 3 to 4 hours a day for the last four days no problems so far .The only thing i do to protect the plate is run the fan for 3o mins to protect the burner from the residual heat after i shut er down. I check the burner every 10 mins with a heat gun when its running and it gets between 125 to 300 deg were it sticks out the forge so about 2'' from the tip.I checked the bottom of the burner in the forge with a mirror to see if the holes were ovaled or showing sighns of burning out so far nothing actually the remnants of the the drilling are still around the edges of the holes.

I got the new blower i hit welding temp no problem i played around with the fuel air mix for awhile one thing i did was get the nozzle red hot im thinking to much fuel.After a few adjustments i got it runnin pretty good and no red nozzle.

I ran the new forge for an hour as hot as i could get it no backfires i took the temp of the burner were its tacked to the body it was under 200 deg once i get the bugs out i'll probably replace the plate with something more suited for heat like chrome i can't find no cast around here.I'M not lookin forward to the big bang lol...The burner is a gas miser that is something i like and if it works the way they say for welding it'll be worth it.

Thats alot off pressure lol the noise is beyond though its loud i just wanna get to welding temp and no noise so i hope the stronger blower does the trick.Mine hasn't bachfired yet but i only ran between 3/10 psi .

Dan i've been following this thread and i have the same noise coming out of my ribbon burner with the same blower my burner is not like yours though ,i went and talked to the guys on the homebuilt forge site on facebook.Their opinion and mine for me is not enough airflow so i got a bigger blower comin if ya got one thats bigger try it. That noise is a definite fail for me and im only able to get to 2050 deg hopefully the blower solves the problem.I went cheap on the ribbon burner its a 2'' coupler with a 1/4 '' plate welded on and drilled with 25 1/4'' hole for the first experiment into ribbon burners.I

Nice dies did ya do them by hand or did you mill them.

It looks like the disk says for aluminum in the green if so it would blow up pretty quick in steel so im curious is it an alum zip disk and what were you cutting.

Mine is a 33lb annyang i like it ,does everything i want.

For me i don't like their warranty or the way they fit the hands i find them to big and bulky for tight spots thats on the 5'' i'm definitely not a fan of it..For me i like the fit and finish on the Milwaukee when the makita goes i'm goin red..

Got to agree with arftist dewalt grinders suck lol i'm startin to like Milwaukee alot right now ive got a makita 5'' ive been abusin for 10yrs now just had to replace the cords a couple of times.

Nice design where you at in ONT ..

Wish i could draw like that lol its goin to be nice anything is possible with a square a tape and a 2'level and a welder you could squeeze cars with 1'' plate .All joking aside i like the design and the more compact the better in my opinion. '

I been looking at one of those tables myself 58er do you no much about differant brands cause i was looking at a langmuir its a a small 2x2 table.I need to get a little more understanding before i pull the trigger what are some things you looked for and like about the one you got.

I'd pass the mig looks in ruff shape with the little wire hanging out the top of the spool gun goes into the feeder and that 90 amp stick machine is only 90 amps plus if i could not try it i would not buy it.

That'll work make sure you do at least 3 passes all the way around the i beam if you go stick use 1/8 rods 7018 and no undercut on the welds i'd be around 130 amps depending on machine remember your to hot if your gettin alot of splatter .