bubba682

Go with the gas mix last year i tried pure co2 cause it was cheaper than the mix which it is but the time cleaning splatter along with the torch tip and cone was not worth it. I did alot of fabbing in a couple of months building trailors. I went thru 22lbs of wire which is a fair bit for me with the added cleaning time it made me go back to the mig mix gas cause its way cleaner and there is less splatter,.

If theres not much use on on it i would check out what they go for new around the area where your from and ask half as a start they are well sought after machines because you can tig with them as well as stick weld.

You can always get a miller thunderbolt acdc for tig and stick they are usually not a budget buster and are easy to run but they are 220 and you were lookin for 110 opps..

Gas diffuser is all we use now when you dip or stick your tungsten in an xray you'll leave a ghost or white mark and sometimes the tip learn to free hand ,walkin the cup is pretty but in tight spots you can get jammed so free hand will get you out of alot of jams.I usually use a 1/4'' stick out for pipe roots a little less on caps and i run 20 on the valve meter argon is usually your friend. If you can get long and short range of points you'll have a seller everyone has diff lengths they like and make sure its strong guys are hard on stuff. ONCE fall colors hit its real nice up here right now were waiten on rain in the rivers to fly fish salmon.Ive been thru Maine its nice country there as well and i heard theres good salmon fishing on some of the rivers someday i gotta get down and try it .Ya got anymore ques if i can help ya out if i will...

Nice jig for a shop but in the field we just put the tungsten in a hand held drill turn it on and hold it upwards against the grind stone with the grinder running of course, works great for sharpening tungsten. In all the years i tigged pipe i only used a custom tungsten sharpener once and that was at BW boiler shop in Cambridge Ontario Can.What i didnt like about the sharpening jig is that you could only get one length of angle from the point .With a drill you can get what you like since you never get a perfect fit up on pipe so its nice to have that ability to go long or short with the point along with stick out and a diffuser cup.Hope this makes sence if you did alot of tig welding on high pressure pipe it should.

I had a heart attach 5 yrs ago since then i take meds for my heart and they don't like heat i drink litres of water daily if not i loose my energy and the sweat stops flowing,lol the joys of getting older.I got a small veg patch two hours in the sun and i'm done and fly fishing even covered up after a couple of hours the stiffness and cramping set in if i don't hydrate.Some days i wonder why i take the meds cause of some of the side effects and they best way to combat the effects is to stay hydrated......

Thks Lee thats the way i'm leaning doing a test first when i get some time its salmon season up here so i been out fly fishing alot.

After reading the ti section on the form and not knowing the alloy i think a knife is out of the ques my luck it would be the non harden able alloy i got. So its butterflys and dragonflies maybe i don't know i'm goin to have to do some searching and pondering cause i don't want to waste this material.

I have no idea the alloy it was given to buy a fellow welder i'm tempted to try a knife but i got to to look up the workin heat, quench and tempering specs to get a general idea. I think i'll use 1/4 the material just in case i run into technical difficulties if anyone has forged ti chime in.

I got a 3'' x12'' block of titanium i'm tying to come up with an idea of what to make whats that stuff like to forge, any ideas or just a waste of propane.

I had the same blower when i first built mine i had to upgrade to more cfm's for better control not sayin its your problem but it was mine...Our forges look pretty cloase except i didn't paint mine i went to a bigger green blower 135 cfms i beleave it made a big differance.

MY press is a h frame and like you i didn't know much about presses my major mistake on the build was using 4''x1/4 square tubing its heavy but managable on the concrete floor of the shop.If i ever do another frame it will be 2''x1/4 so half the weight of what i got now.Lastly my speed is right around 4'' a sec so i lucked out lol and i enjoyed the chat as well...

The rpm on the motor is 1750 i think i'll have to check in the morn now lol i have no idea on the pump but its all based off a 20 ton log splitter my cyl has a 10'' stroke and its fast.I went to a hydraulics shop told them the speed and tonnage i wanted they sold me what i needed.I didn't waste my time trying to frankenstein a system together some guys have luck doing that but thats usually not me.I looked at a two cyl system but in the end i didn't want the extra cost and i wanted a small mobile system because my shop is only 24x24 and i do alot of fabrication in it so theres other gear to contend with.Whats the price you paid for your sys if ya don't mind me askin all in for me with parts and steel was 1600 and change.

First time i seen this post ,when i built mine i run a single 5'' cyl with a 16 gpm 2 stage pump and a 5hp motor i'm not great with the math but mine is fast and i think we figured 19 ton but it does what i want it to do.In my experience i like fast over big power i don't need big power but if your a full time guy then two cyls maybe the way to go for your needs.I'm not a hydraulics guy but for making damascus speed is where its at in my opinion and your die designs are real important as well. I use my press for making every thing from bowls to axes i got a 33lb anang power hammer i barley use i;m considering selling cause the press is so flexible and i make all my own dies.If i can help ya i will...

Like i said you got to able to weld properly or pay someone thats certified if ya got the cash buy one but if you got the skills build one there not hard.If you don't understand hydraulics go to a shop and get a basic system flow/design print and talk to the guys out back they might help ya a bit plus theres books as well.Once ya figure out a basic setup and build it you can improve on it.If you cant weld go to a certified welding shop with a basic design let them build the frame then plumb in the hydraulics yourself to save some cash.These are just a few examples how to help yourself out and theres a forge press site on facebook i recommend, lots of nice homebuilt presses on there to get ideas of what you want. Have fun with the project post some pics start to finish theres a few of us on here that built their presses from scratch on here including myself they are a great asset to have. I just read Latticino's post also good advice...

Can ya weld cause that will be one skill ya need or know someone who can weld cause thats were it starts.And what i mean by that is if your going to build it from scratch or convert a log splitter etc ya gotta be able to weld properly , be willing to buy new or pay someone to build your design.Another thing i'll add is don't get caught up in tonnage for a small shop i recommend speed over push.

As long as it works good and helps cut smooth not jerky and clean is all that matters i went from torch to plasma cause acetylene costs a fortune up here now. Alot of initial cost but in 4 years its saved me alot of cash in acetylene/propane and oxygene.I bought a circle jig its got a metal wheel mounted on the torch holder it really helps smooth the cut out take a look on the web it might be worth a try.

I see a couple of you guys talking dia of grinder i usually use nothing but 5'' grinders the bigger ones are ok for flat but i wouldn't want to be doin much vertical or horizontal work hangin on to one of them..4 1/2 '' are great in tight spots like in boilers and overhead work.

TW they were just the small 20v batteries and i had a zip cut on i thought they would do it but no way lol i borrowed it off a buddy of mine.

All i can add is yesterday i used a dewalt cordless it had 4 20v batteries i tried to cut out a 16x24'' piece of oil tank for a forge hood it went thru the 4 batts and it could not cut it out.I've used the milwaukee grinder on pipe not a real fan but its better than dewalt.I'M starting to become a fan of ridgid gear but i havn't used their grinder yet.

Wow the price today compared to when i got my clone 3 yrs ago which cost me 5600 cdn taxes in and delivered compared to 9600 cdn+ shipping , duties and taxes today for the Anyang 34 lb . Theres a guy who has a clone 34 lb a couple of hours from me that was busted up pretty bad around the ram he got all his parts from Anyang in the states. Its runnin again and having no issues he was tellin me the parts are the same.It was about a year ago the last time we talked but usually he gets a hold of me if he got issues.

I own an 33lb anyang clone it works pretty good 3 yrs no problems it very controllable i'm not a fan of there oil system but other than that it serves my needs.

DJW i use 2''x4'' mild steel for my flat dies nowadays no issues at all and when they wear out there cheap to replace ..

Charles i'm going to take a look at your setup before i give up on wood ..

I'm glad you commented Charles i was lookin at your build for the side blast and i'm thinkin i'll pass on makin the whitlock style and stick with coal for general work i'm starten to agree with the opinion of to much fire tending and not enough hammering with a wood forge.