D.C.

Most acme threads look nearly square when they're new/not worn. Technically they are trapezoidal threads...but definitely square at the top. We use ALLOT of acme in our shop.

Those really look comfortable. Please, next time you make a pair, post pictures of the construction....a complete how to would be really awesome. Btw.....cordwainer sounds so much cooler than shoemaker or cobbler

Where is the serial number on the anvil?

I was just giving some examples of damage that is not always easy to spot from a picture. A ball bearing is easier to use to test rebound. Less noisy too.

Ok, so the Trenton is a farrier pattern anvil....but the picture of the marking looks raised, which implies a cast body. I've personally never seen a raised Trenton logo. The second one I've gut no input. Not being pessimistic, but without putting your hands on the anvil, checking rebound or signs of delamination, cracking, or low quality repairs, it's a total gamble if the anvils are with Anything... As has been pointed out on this site before, the proof of any anvil worth is not in the name, but in the functionality. If they have been welded on, or been through a fire, their temper could be affected. That being said, California prices run high. I try not to pay more than $3/lb....but I'm not in California. 5/lb isn't unreasonable if you can test them.

Beautiful work, and I have to compliment your attention to detail. Quite professional.

That goes on the "to build" list!

Looks good to me! I maintain its crazy to NOT turn junk into something useful...

I'm beginning to think it's a trick of our minds that we need a bigger anvil. My first was a 90# Trenton....and after getting it all I could think of was how badly I needed a bigger one. And now I have a bigger anvil, I still end up using the 90# sometimes. That Vulcan will take care of you as long as you return the favor and take care if it!

Please remember too that often our more experienced members have been fielding these same types of questions over and over. YouTube has become an amazing asset for people who want to learn...but just because one guy made a video of something, it doesn't mean he's a expert, has any real experience, or has your best interest in mind. The members of this site work hard to promote safe practices, and that is due to the fact that they actually CARE about what happens to other people. Their opinion of the viability of "KoR"s ideas are not out of animosity, but out of safety concerns.

JHCC.....I hate to admit I laughed at that

From my understanding, the actual name of this type is "bridge" anvil...and while I have seen a few around the oil patch, I do not know why they used that pattern. Especially since the only time I ever saw them used was when hammering swage locks and sleeves on wire ropes.

That is some beautiful work!

Simply beautiful. I have a question though. I've noticed on several of your blades that the scales overhang the tang of the knife. When it comes to heavy use, have you found that to be an advantage..or is it merely an aesthetic choice?

You mentioned that your next step is the heat treatment, I'm curious what material did you start with? Knife making is not the easiest thing to start with, but it sure will hone your hammer control. You should post a few pics of the blades you are modelling these after. Keep at it, I look forward to seeing the finished product.

Good work IFI members! 3 solid replies in under 20 minutes.

Best I can recommend is what is in the anvil height sticky. Search anvil height, and read carefully. Use a piece of wood on your anvil to confirm your hammer is hitting the surface squarely. Then practice, practice, practice.

I own a Trenton, a Soderfors, and a modern GE. BUT I have used a friend's Vulcan, and, despite significant abuse, it was still a good anvil. Have some been abused to the point of failure? Absolutely. But so have Trenton, Hay Buddens, Mouseholes, and even my beloved Soderfors. People talk about chipping edges, my Trenton didn't have a square corner anywhere, yet it's a "quality tool". Vulcan made inexpensive anvils, but as has been stated..it's FAR from an ASO. I'd take one any day.

Historically, most sword failures were from bending......and staying bent. Many records talk about warriors pausing mid-battle to stand on their blades. In fact many Viking Age burials have been found with swords bent and twisted almost in a knot. These are examples of LOW CARBON BLADES..primarily iron. Blades such as the Ulfberht blades were higher carbon, yes, and pattern welded iron and steel, but it was the heat treatment, especially the tempering, that allowed the sword to bend..and then "spring" back to shape. Hardened but untempered steel breaks rather than bend and spring back.

NoName, maybe I got it wrong, but I think littleblacksmith was referring to the person who put that anvil through such rough treatment...NOT calling Muddoc a dummy. That damage does not look recent. But maybe I'm just assuming too much. Good luck with the Smithing Muddoc, even as beat as that anvil is, it will serve you well.

That is art....

I'd be mighty proud of that...especially if it was the first go at making one!

Beautiful! I would say that was absolutely worth the drive, especially for that price..

Good problem solving....and 10 out of 10 for style!

That looks great!