• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


1 Follower

About JPH

  • Rank
    Cranky Old Dog Face
  • Birthday October 25

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    soon to be Florida
  • Interests
    making metal stuff


  • Location
    Henderson, NV
  1. Bos Taurus Blades

    Hello: Something I whipped out yesterday and today... A pair of Bovine Ivory gripped blades.. both blades are in my "Solar Storm"Pattern" and welded from 1905 and L-6 steels The first is a rather NASTY and wicked looking "Bowie" with a 12" blade... 1 3/4" wide with a 1/2 blade length fuller on each side.. Blackened "Bovine Ivory" grip and silver fittings and studs...Very fast and responsive this one... The other is a "Boz Taurus" hunting dagger with a 12" double edged blade, 1 3/4" wide with a single full blade length fuller on each side... Phosphor bronze mounts and studs on some my "fossil Boz Taurus" ivory grip... Impressive blade...quite stout but it still "dances in you hand" and is quite a "powerful" feeling piece... So that's pretty much what I did this weekend... I hope these photos come out OK... JPH
  2. Something WICKED

    This Way Comes.... Ohh K...wicked pretty much describes this bugger...on several different levels.. The blade is a three core Twist/Counter twist two (2) outer two cores with a interrupted twist centre core.. All three cores are welded SS HT foil and 1045 (and this wasn't "welded in a can" either.).. It was just forge welded as "the usual" around these here parts... The edges are 1070 HC Now getting the tip to "work" took some serious.. and I mean a good hour or so seriopus T&E but I finally got it to the right shape and curve. The curved fullers (one on each side) were a real PITA to do but,.... I managed to get it done by using a shorter fullering set in my fly press..(Had to make new fullers but what the he......) Recurved blades are a real challenge to get right sometimes..especially when they are as long as this one is ..33" thereabouts and it is a MONSTER.. Some of my fossil Boz Taurus ivory with bronze studs and bolster/pommel plate complete this slayer.... I call this one a Scimayagatana..a cross between a scimitar, yataghan and a katana... I dunno what I was doing... I just got another wild hare involved and I just went with it.. this is what came from that... mind works in odd ways sometimes (especially when compared to "normal folks") ... This little SOB of a blade wants to cut and the follow through is smooth and very "powerful" due to the centre of gravity being so "forward" due to that recurved section..Man this is a WICKED Bugger!! So here it all its Wickedness... Now I got to figure out what to do for a sheath... and...the hits just keep on a comin'... JPH
  3. Another Whippit Knife

    Hello!! Ok here is something I whipped out yesterday and today. I guess ya'all can call it a "Bowie" knife...but it looks a bit too rakish/stylish to me for a Bowie..but what do I know?? I just made the dang thing.. Anyway I got a wild hare and went with the flow as they say...All I know is that I needed website stock so...I just went with it. I guess that this one just wanted to be this way so..Who am I to complain?? It least I think it did.. The more I hammered the more it wanted to become what it became.....This happens sometimes.. Didn't want to fight it..just went with it.. Now this old boy has a 12 1/2" long blade with a single fuller along the spine on both sides...I swaged the clip...just because I think felt that it would look better that way....( and it seemed to work so...) ..Blade is in 1095 and L6 steel in my "Solar Storm" pattern with phosphor bronze fittings. The grip is a piece of my "fossilized Bos Taurus" ivory and it is set with hand made phosphor bronze studs..(I got to find a ready made source for these little buggers...these guys take forever to make by hand ..geeze..)... I tell ya'all it was a time getting the tang to the right shape to fit the grip material..the bone was a bit "weird" as far as the opening inside but I endeavored and I prevailed...all I had to do is to be a bit "creative" and all... After an hour or so of T&E I finally got it all to fit right. That and getting that fuller to curve right to match the blade profile..... THAT was a bit annoying ...Yet it all tries together (more or less).. Still not too bad for a day and a half worth of work..I have enough of this Solar Storm bar left that I welded up for this guy for another couple of three more decent sized blades as well!! Ya know I think this one turned out pretty good for a old, unknown to the world, ham handed, hammer head like me that is still trying to figure this all out.. JPH (This guy is listed for sale on mus site in case any is interested...)...
  4. Bowling Ball Shortsword

    Frosty..Mi Compadre.. remember I am NOT all that experienced in using this stuff so...I was using a 1/2" Dia "sanding arbor" and those little wittle sanding bands.. I cut these flutes "free hand" not using anything other than the old "eye ball" measurement as I was going along using a 40 grit band on the Foredom.... did some refining with a 180 grit and the final shape and "blending" with a 360grit... after that it was wet 600, wet 1500, wet 2500 and wet 3600 grit..and during the wet polish all the colour and character started to show up. This was followed with a black grease based crocus on a semi hard muslin and then a 6000 grit white pumice on a hard muslin buff.. the buffs were a wet buff (using WD-40 as the slip..worked GREAT) and this is what I got...I was gob-smacked at what I was seeing as it was being buffed... YOW_ZAAA! some really different stuff as far as I am use to.. So all in all and SLTT I think this one turned out pretty good for an ignorant old "Hammer Head" like me that had NO idea at all as far as what he was getting into... As always.. JPH
  5. Bowling Ball Shortsword

    Frosty...the grip was mostly done by hand tools and the flutes were cut using my Foredom flex shaft...the usual PPE was all that was needed.. Now the funky part is the way this stuff came off during the fluting..instead of a regular "dust" like a wood saw dust this stuff formed a very coarse and rough grain about the size of reject sand...really odd...and I had to polish it wet to keep it from melting... Still I think it turned out pretty good when you factor in the fact that I have no clue at all as to what I was doing with this... JPH
  6. Bowling Ball Shortsword

    Frosty, Mi Amigo... I scrounged and did a whole LOT of research and SLTT and I found a couple of guys that make custom bowling balls and who do re-hab on BB's as well.. So... As they say...this stuff that you all can see up above is..on most B balls about 3/4" thick.. MY contacts that make these balls can do all sorts of " interesting" stuff as they say and this is...more or less..the results as far as what we have come up with. JPH
  7. Bowling Ball Shortsword

    H.R. : THANK YOU Sir!! As I said before..I don't think it turned out half bad for a "What the Heck" sorta project.. Thanks once again.. JPH
  8. Hello: I go through 3 or 4 leaher aprons a year due to my sweating through them and they getting top be a bit more than a little "stiff".. Leather is great for a lot of things..keeps the sparks off and it can keep you in one piece if you do something stupid (I speak from decade's worth of experience on this one...) JPH
  9. Howdy ya'all!! OK IK have been doing a good bit of of scrounging here and there and I have, after doping a good bit of chasing around.. some bowling ball material that "acquired" and that I decided to try to use for a grip on some stuff... I tell yas.. did I learn a bunch as far as working, finishing and polishing this.. Yet Geeze Louise.this stuff was totally and completely different from I have been using for the last 40 plus years...but... So be that as it may.. I went ahead hammered out one of my quick and dirty Ladder Pattern shortsword blades and put this stuff on it.. All I can say is WOW...this stuff looks like a cross hybrid between gold Tigers-eye and Baltic amber...(my pics ain't all that hot but) when I saw where this was heading... well.... DESIGN CHANGE!~ Went all out and went and finished/mounted this one up real spiffy like.... Specs: Double edged 21 1/4" long x 1 1/4" wide blade.. L-6/1095/meteorite iron.. Ladder pattern.. 4/5ths blade length fuller each side. Forged and file worked phosphor bronze mounts and that bowling balls stuff that I fluted for the grip (this is just mind blowing stuff).. Mounted the leather sheath with a chape and locket and set a 33.10 Ct star ruby (I cut this one myself) into it... Didn't turn out half bad for a blade made on a whim/what the Heck, why not ?? sorta project... At least I don't think it did anyways... But what do I know?? I am still trying to figure this stuff out... So...If ya ask me this one turned out OK for what it experiment...So...ya'all... Let me know what ya'all think.. JPH
  10. New Knife Law in Texas

    Heck...when I was in school if you didn't have two (2) knives...a fancy one with at least two or three blades for show and a user one you were considered weird... JPH
  11. Had Some Free

    Hello: This stuff was pretty rusty when I scrounged it so I did a vinegar soak after I unwound the strands into the 7 basic parts. Followed that with a rather aggressive wire brushing to get out as much rust as I could. Now this cable had a sisal fibre core so that went away . That made it a bit interesting when it came to putting the things together again but it worked. After I got the pieces as clean as I could I took some strips of the SS foil and spiral wrapped then around 3 of the six strands and then just bundled them together as best I cold and started to weld and twist. This is what I ended up with. Didn't turn out half bad at all if ya ask me.. JPH
  12. Had Some Free

    Hello.. I had a few hours of what would be (Dead) free time... so I whipped this out not wanting to waste working time... Welded cable from a pre 1910 mine here in Nevada with some SS heat treat foil thrown in for colour/contrast just cause I can... "Fossil Bos Taurus" ivory and phosphor bronze mounts.. I think it came out OK for a "time killer" project... It's up on my site as we speak/... Hope these pics come out OK.. JPH
  13. Railroad spikes

    Hello: These RR spikes make OK knives IF they are made from the right spikes and you know how to do he correct thermal treatment...even then..they are just OK.... Wrote this a little while back....may behoove you to take a look.. hope the link works...if it doesn't, look in the knifemaking section it's in there.. I sell these things by the dozens... Hope this helps... JPH
  14. Chisa Katana..(or One for Me!)

    RCT: Thank you for he kind words..yous should see it up close and feeble photo skills do not do this one justice at all... Still it turned out pretty good for an old hammer head like me... JPH
  15. Hey!! I was puttering about in my studio with a hour or so on "dead time" so I hammered out 8 Rail Road spike well as writing an article on this for my web site...Sooo I though I would share a bit as far as how I do a RR spike knife... Forging a knife from a rail road spike is something that has become quite popular of late...and here is how I do it. I make mine a bit differently than most other so, however a word first about RR spikes. Most RR spikes have very little carbon will simply not harden enough to make a "using" knife...however there are a few that are marked "HC" that have a smidge more carbon that when properly heat treated can make a some acceptable knife. Contrary to popular belief the "HC" does not mean "High Carbon" but from my sources at Union Pacific RR it means "Higher Carbon"... from the way it works..I would say that the C content is about 40 points...BARELY enough to just start to get hard enough to take an edge,...BUT it is enough to harden to a point where the blade can be I mentioned above..when properly heat treated. Step one: The spike is flattened, starting from the head and then working down the spike shaft. This will be the gripping area. carefully flatten head section and "blend" it into the start of the spike and continue to flatten this out until you have a flat area about 4" long or so...NO longer than 5".. that will result with a grip area that is a good bit too long and that will "throw off" the lines of the finished blade Once this area is flattened and drawn out the thickness is checked for uniformity and overall "blending" of the head and grip area. When this is done, flatten and spread the remaining spike to form the blade. It doesn't look like there is much material there to make a blade more than a couple of inches long but there is. The blade is forged flat and is widened and drawn out into a rough forged shape As you can see there is a considerable amount of material in one of these spikes after all and you can forge out a pretty good sized "user" knife in a variety of blade shapes and styles. Working from the tip back, start to flatten and spread the blade. Widen as you go and then start in on the distal taper. When you get to the riccasso end... carefully widen this area and make sure the whole forging "blends" well into the shape you want. After the blade is forged out and shaped into the rough shape of what you want to make, this rough forging still needs to be profiled to final shape. Note: at this point the edge bevels have been formed ("packed") and the knife is pretty much in its final cross section. Now is the time to do any refinements and make certain that there are no drastic changes in cross section and that everything "flows" into everything else The next step is blade profiling and grinding the blade edges.. This is done either by hand with a file or a high speed grinder. Here the knife takes on its final "finished" shape. This will be a rather quick process as everything should be pretty well shaped by the forging, and the edge bevels , already being "set" by the hammer shouldn't take much time at all to clean up. Now it is ready for thermal treatment. Thermal treatment consists of two normalizing cycles, which is bringing the entire forging up to approx 1600 degrees F and letting furnace cool over night. You want this steel to be totally relaxed and soft before hardening. After the normalization is completed (this is done to make sure the steel grain is not enlarged, and hence "ruined") the blade is ready to harden. Now since this is a plain carbon steel that has what I feel to be the minimum amount of carbon in it to harden into a cutting edge, I have found that a water/brine quench works best. I use the same basic brine mix that I use when doing refractory thermal treatment (for a "temperline" using clay and 1045/1050 steels) except for a RR spike I use the quench at a temperature that is a good deal lower ambient room temperature instead of heating it to 240 degrees F as I do for the refractory methods. The quench I use is a caustic soda brine mixed from common salt, sodium hydroxide and water. The blade is heated to non magnetic and then held there for 1 minute to ensure uniform heating throughout the thickness. After the soak the blade is removed and then quickly quenched point first to help prevent warpage. Once the blade is hardened it is tempered to a light straw colour (approx 440 degrees F.) and then allowed to air cool. After cooling is is final ground, being very careful to make sure that the steel is not overheated..this could result in "soft spots" in the blade..and these are NOT acceptable Here is the finished blade shown with the "raw material".. These spikes, when properly worked can make some very tough and serviceable knives..when properly heat treated.. They make a very unique blade that is only limited in its design by your own imagination! I hope this works!!!