JPH

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About JPH

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    Cranky Old Dog Face

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    Male
  • Location
    Florida
  • Interests
    making metal stuff

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  • Location
    Henderson, NV

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  1. Frosty: From what I can tell from reading up on Atlas saws..the gear box is suppose to be full...I know it was when I cracked it open and it had the glop of grease around the gears and oil everywhere else..it was a mess to clean it out..geeze that took a while... still waiting for the parts to show...
  2. Frosty!! Mi hermano! Yeah..thank you for validating my decision... the replacements will be here in the AM..so I have been told..went out and got me some red sticky grease and some gear case oil so I am all set..so I think I am...(I got to remember that this is a 100 year+ old machine so...red grease was from the days way back when)... I got the little bugger torn down and ready for the new parts..replacing the gear..(no brainer there)..upper bearings, oil seal..lower bearings as well as the snap rings..(I really hate those..they can shoot any and every where..and they are a real PITA to hunt down..) so I be prepared..so I think... Yeah..I know.ME thinking??> NOT a good idea but...In gotta get this one up and back on line ASAP as I have stuff to make!!.. FAB- JPH
  3. Howdy! Here is the gear in question: Ya think it's thrashed? FAB- JPH
  4. These old machines were made by craftsmen for craftsmen..Not like the disposable throw away pieces of trash that they make now.. Use it for a while and when it breaks buy another.. No..I'll take the quality of a properly made machine any time..I have no problem getting covered in grease, oil and grime to maintain a good piece of equipment. It's all part of the experience.. FAB- JPH
  5. Frosty: This is an old Atlas..made before or early WWI ish..so I have been told...I am thinking lithium grease and a gear box slurry mixed up real goopy and runny like... still looking at some Atlas machine tool boards for info.. FAB- JPH
  6. Howdy! Well my meal cutting bandsaw has been giving me fits so after trouble shooting it and replacing the top wheel bearings..I decided that I may as well replace the lower bearing as well..... long story short is the worm gear that runs from the V belt wheel into the gear box is 100% a-OK however the bronze gear that drives the lower wheel shaft is toast..I am amazed that the thing still worked!! So..after cleaning out all the bronze shards, shavings and bits and ordering the new bearings, oil seals and the new gear..what kind of grease/lube should I use?? I am a wee bit leery of using gear box oil alone for this.. The new parts will be here Weds I was told...so.. any suggestions?? FAB- JPH
  7. Frosty: I had the same eye glasses frame material idea that you had hit me last night while I was watching a commercial for custom glass frames.. Some of the material shown looks pretty interesting...This requires a bit more investigation on that.. Let me let slip my e-vile minions on this... I am, not much of a fan of using all these "plastics" and all ..I do prefer natural materials but with the present situation as far as some skeletal materials go and CITES.. I mean I have a BUNCH of ivory that I picked up at an estate sale in the early 1980's (I went in with my dear friend Bob Egnath..who was at the time the finest traditional scrimshander in the world and another maker, Sherman Williams and we bought 4 huge tusks that were harvested around 1890 or so....) So I am stuck with all this ivory that I CAN NOT sell....while the paperwork I have is adequate to make it legal to own..it is not legal to sell.. Sigh... So that is why I am using that 100 year old Bakelite.. So I am always searching for different stuff to fill that "ivory" and "tortoise shell" look without have a vacation at the Greybar Hotel... FAB- JPH
  8. Eventless: I just start fluting and work my way from there..I have done so many of these that I can just freehand it and get decent results..at least I think they are decent.. It just takes a wee bit of time to get everything smoothed out.. So ya'all have seen one of the processes I do around here... FAB- JPH
  9. Hello!! Well..here is the last "installment" in this project..so here we go.. The first photo below shows the guard silver soldered to the blade. I use a 4%Ag 96% Sn solder... The second shows the bronze bar for the ferrule fitted to the tang/guard area. Third picture is the shaped guard and start of the file work around the perimeter of the ferrule. Fourth is the ferrule soldered to the guard/tang Fifth photo is the rough pommel/ferrule before sculpting Sixth pic shows the fitted grip before final shaping and fluting The seventh photo shows the finished dagger. Photos eight and nine are close ups of the blade and the grip respectively. All in all this did not turn out half bad. The blade length turned out to be 18 1/2" with an overall; length of 25".. Not too bad for an old man.. Hope this helps explain a bit as to how I managed to do things... FAB- JPH
  10. Maxwell: I found a gentleman back in Nevada before we moved down the the wilds of the Florida jungle that made custom bowling balls. He laid up some sort of polyester/polyurethane stuff and resin and worked it around the weight block inside the ball..the stuff STINKS when you work it and it is rather picky to polish but it is something to see...takes a glass like polish.. He is now selling the stuff to custom fountain pen makers (in a much smaller size.) FAB- JPH
  11. Frosty: Sal Ammoniac does help..and it doesn't take much at all..about 1/4 part fine powder to make a difference...make sure you have more than adequate ventilation when you work hot..no matter what you are doing CO is a killer...and it can sneak up on ya .. OK next installment.. Didn't get as much done as planned..had some problems with the etch and then the guard decided to be a putz and I messed up 3 of them before No.4 worked....but tomorrow it will be done so here we go.. First photo is the etched blade..didn't turn out half bad really...had to change etchant , which solved the evenness problem...got to do that every now and then. 2nd pic is of the rough shaped bronze guard before the forging of the flats and the bends..Here is when I hit trouble... The third is the buggered up guards and the one that worked..All that needs to be done is solder this onto the blade..make the top and bottom ferrules and pommel.. fit, shape and flute the grip and it's done save for the sheath..I might include that as well just for grins and giggles.. So we will see what happens tomorrow...The missus has a PT appt. in the afternoon for her knee surgery she had two weeks past..so my work time will be curtailed a bit in the PM.. More as things happen
  12. Frosty: Sal ammoniac does help a bunch with SS welding..here again..proper care must be taken...just as with everything else actually...play safe or loose something... JPH
  13. Frosty...Weeelllll yeah...fluorspar can be rather a nasty thing at welding temps...but if you know how and take the proper steps and all... next installment later today.. FAB- JPH
  14. Frosty: You sure do and then a couple of other things as well... I am rather reluctant to give out this flux due to the fact that if you don't know exactly what you are doing it can mess you up beyond recognition in a second.. I will say that it is a more aggressive variation of my "Steel Glue" flux that I have been using over the years... JPH
  15. Eventless...I use them as you see them...these are 0.004" thick.."paper thickness"...next installment follows below.. JPH Next installment: First two photos are the ladder rungs cut into the bar... I do this using an angle grinder and a 1/8" thick steel/metal cutting disc.. The grooves are offset from side to side and abut 1/3 the way down from the flat as shown in the second photo. This piece is 14" in length at this time.. The third photo shows the flattened out bar with the surface hammered out bringing the "ladder" pattern out. the fourth photo shows the drawn out tang and the basic forged blank. The blade section is now 18" in length. Photo five shows the blade that has been heat treated and finish ground as well as the bowling ball material for the grip. Photo 6 shows the blade with the grip material fitted to the tang and the blade polished and ready to etch. As you read this this blade is etching. IF all goes well I should be able to pretty much finish this tomorrow save for the sheath. More as things progress..I still have to settle of a fitting style..I will ponder that this evening. JPH