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I Forge Iron


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About JPH

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    Cranky Old Dog Face

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    making metal stuff


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    Henderson, NV

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  1. GNM: In answer...I forge the fullers in using my fly press..this does them really spiffy and I can feel the steel move under it as I work..plus it does both sides at the same time.. as for cleaning them up...I use my Foredom flex shaft machine and a lot of those little sleeve sanding bands..it doesn't take more than a few minutes to do if I do my part and get the fuller as even as I can under the fly press dies.. On working that bb material. It is basically some sort of polymer/acrylic and once I get above say 300 grit I start to polish wet up to 3000 then a light buff with black em
  2. Howdy!! Here are four I just finished..two have my infamous bovine ivory, two have some of that bowling ball material that stumbled upon a while back. All are PW and the fancy one is silver mounted and has a 18 ct plus hand cut blue flash labradorite cab set on the sheath throat. Sorted through 10 lbs of rough to find a piece that matches the grip colouration....I think I pretty much nailed it on that. I took my sweet time in cutting it as well....didn't want to mess it up. Not too bad for front yard fancy if ya ask this old man.. JPH
  3. howdy: Here's one of the four I finished today...will post all four under different header.. JPH
  4. Hello.. Well this one started out as a Bowie, honest it did but my feeble old mind started to wander off the path a wee bit..(must be from all the covid infection fiascoes surging around my brains..) and this is what happened....I gotta start to pay better attention to what I am doing.. Forged from 1070 and L-6 with some meteoric iron thrown in just because... 19" long recurved blade in a feather pattern with twin fullers... Doing twin fullers in a recurve is a wee bit nerve wracking.. Forged phosphor bronze mounts and an antelope horn grip,, overall length 25 3/4".. Not too bad f
  5. Hello: Needed to get some hammer time and finish something to get my mind off of the sudden passing of my little brother..So here it is.. More or less a dirk..1095/L-6 mix in my "Solar Storm" pattern.. 15" blade length with twin fullers each side... red bovine ivory grip and phosphor bronze mounts. Turned out petty good considering where my mind was when I was making it.. This one goes up on my website this evening... JPH RKH 1971-2020 Rest in Peace...
  6. Howdy: Just finished this one..It would of gone out to California to that Renaissance Faire in Irwindale....but that is a no-go this year so...Up on the website it goes sometime tomorrow.. This one has a PW blade 22" long in 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron in my "Hugs and Kisses" pattern with a single full length fuller on each side./ The fittings are forged and file worked phosphor bronze. The fluted grip is some of that bowling ball material I stumbled onto a while back... Interesting stuff to work..Different I will say that... Sheath is mounted in phosphor bronze with a nic
  7. Hello: Looks better than my first one...that's for sure...On the RR spikes..According to Union Pacific..the ones marked "HC" means Higher Carbon..(which isn't saying much) and these are used on the curved sections of track due to the toughness that the small amount of additional C imparts..As it is.. spec is about 35 to 39 pts C which is right at the cusp of almost being able to be hardened..however if you are a bit crafty you can get these to do a wee bit of hardening (I do it and they do cut pretty good given what they are made from)..almost to the point of being a semi decent edge bu
  8. good idea..establish a skill set that you can use,,and believe me..even then you will constantly be adding to that skill set..I still am and I weld up some really weird materials sometimes. JPH
  9. Hello: Apparently you didn't quite get what I was saying... You are getting in way over your head without knowing basic forging techniques..give yourself at least a good six months of steady forging..What degree of hammer control do you have? Did you learn how to upset, draw, bend, taper. curve..make a bar thicker as well as thinner ???. ..you WILL need these skills (and a few more) when you start welding... You will also need to know the working temp ranges of the materials you plan to use..get too far apart on those and you will be fighting weld shears and worse.. Just take your time
  10. Hello: As others stated...you can simply wire them in place..I have been doing this for a wee little bit and that is what I have done from the start..I tried even using SS hose clamps but using the techniques that I do they welded to the surface so it's been wires all the way.. I start out with billets 12" to 18" in length 1 1/4" sq and a layer count of between 60 and 75 depending..usually of 1095, L-6 and some ss heat treat foil for colour..gives great contrast by the way.... But I gotta ask...if you don't know really how to make a decent knife as yet (it will happen as you gain e
  11. Hello: Well thanks to this idiot stay at home stuff that is going on I am finishing all the higher end stuff I usually send out to my E-Vile minions to sell at the various shows I have them displayed at..and posting them for sale on my site. So here's another one from the Old Man's front yard... Pattern Welded Dagger in my "Hugs and Kisses" pattern (It has a repeated series of X and O running down the centre of the blade) Blade is double edged and is 17 1/4" in length and welded from a mix of 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron for grins and giggles.. Full length fuller each side
  12. Howdy!! While ya'all got the mostly of what I am talking about as far as the liquid flux..most folks will benefit from the borax and boric acid mix.. Now... I will admit that I add a few other things to mine since I am welding some heavy weight alloy stuff (and that stainless can be a real bugger.)...but the basic idea is the same.. it does get "down in there" and I feel that it makes a difference.. and when you do a surface application of the same basic flux it really does help...but here again..I ain't nobody of any sort of importance..just an old hammer head working in his front yard.
  13. howdy..just a thought ( I do get them every now and then...) have you considered using a liquid flux soak prior to the first welding heat?? I use one and it does help...ALOT.. As I said..just a passing thought.. JPH
  14. FL: I was in NV for some 30 years so....Now I am down here for the remainder...NV was getting to Californicated for me...FL is still a free state..19 April 1775..the day of The Shot Heard Around the World... We are free because of their sacrifices... JPH
  15. Howdy: I gotta ask.....why no flux? I mean, I weld some high alloy stuff that most folks say can't be welded outside of a can but I do it in an open forge....Sure I use some nasty flux but it works.. Just use more than adequate ventilation.. It is rather rough on the forge lining...but that is what happens with these more aggressive chemicals.. but that is me... Now most folks would do quite well with a mix of anhydrous borax and boric acid..Especially when you are using the materials you are..these usually stick quite readily if the surfaces are clean and hot enough... Anyway that's t
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