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I Forge Iron

JPH

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About JPH

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    Cranky Old Dog Face

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florida
  • Interests
    making metal stuff

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  • Location
    Henderson, NV

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  1. Hello: Needed to get some hammer time and finish something to get my mind off of the sudden passing of my little brother..So here it is.. More or less a dirk..1095/L-6 mix in my "Solar Storm" pattern.. 15" blade length with twin fullers each side... red bovine ivory grip and phosphor bronze mounts. Turned out petty good considering where my mind was when I was making it.. This one goes up on my website this evening... JPH RKH 1971-2020 Rest in Peace...
  2. Howdy: Just finished this one..It would of gone out to California to that Renaissance Faire in Irwindale....but that is a no-go this year so...Up on the website it goes sometime tomorrow.. This one has a PW blade 22" long in 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron in my "Hugs and Kisses" pattern with a single full length fuller on each side./ The fittings are forged and file worked phosphor bronze. The fluted grip is some of that bowling ball material I stumbled onto a while back... Interesting stuff to work..Different I will say that... Sheath is mounted in phosphor bronze with a nic
  3. Hello: Looks better than my first one...that's for sure...On the RR spikes..According to Union Pacific..the ones marked "HC" means Higher Carbon..(which isn't saying much) and these are used on the curved sections of track due to the toughness that the small amount of additional C imparts..As it is.. spec is about 35 to 39 pts C which is right at the cusp of almost being able to be hardened..however if you are a bit crafty you can get these to do a wee bit of hardening (I do it and they do cut pretty good given what they are made from)..almost to the point of being a semi decent edge bu
  4. good idea..establish a skill set that you can use,,and believe me..even then you will constantly be adding to that skill set..I still am and I weld up some really weird materials sometimes. JPH
  5. Hello: Apparently you didn't quite get what I was saying... You are getting in way over your head without knowing basic forging techniques..give yourself at least a good six months of steady forging..What degree of hammer control do you have? Did you learn how to upset, draw, bend, taper. curve..make a bar thicker as well as thinner ???. ..you WILL need these skills (and a few more) when you start welding... You will also need to know the working temp ranges of the materials you plan to use..get too far apart on those and you will be fighting weld shears and worse.. Just take your time
  6. Hello: As others stated...you can simply wire them in place..I have been doing this for a wee little bit and that is what I have done from the start..I tried even using SS hose clamps but using the techniques that I do they welded to the surface so it's been wires all the way.. I start out with billets 12" to 18" in length 1 1/4" sq and a layer count of between 60 and 75 depending..usually of 1095, L-6 and some ss heat treat foil for colour..gives great contrast by the way.... But I gotta ask...if you don't know really how to make a decent knife as yet (it will happen as you gain e
  7. Hello: Well thanks to this idiot stay at home stuff that is going on I am finishing all the higher end stuff I usually send out to my E-Vile minions to sell at the various shows I have them displayed at..and posting them for sale on my site. So here's another one from the Old Man's front yard... Pattern Welded Dagger in my "Hugs and Kisses" pattern (It has a repeated series of X and O running down the centre of the blade) Blade is double edged and is 17 1/4" in length and welded from a mix of 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron for grins and giggles.. Full length fuller each side
  8. Howdy!! While ya'all got the mostly of what I am talking about as far as the liquid flux..most folks will benefit from the borax and boric acid mix.. Now... I will admit that I add a few other things to mine since I am welding some heavy weight alloy stuff (and that stainless can be a real bugger.)...but the basic idea is the same.. it does get "down in there" and I feel that it makes a difference.. and when you do a surface application of the same basic flux it really does help...but here again..I ain't nobody of any sort of importance..just an old hammer head working in his front yard.
  9. howdy..just a thought ( I do get them every now and then...) have you considered using a liquid flux soak prior to the first welding heat?? I use one and it does help...ALOT.. As I said..just a passing thought.. JPH
  10. FL: I was in NV for some 30 years so....Now I am down here for the remainder...NV was getting to Californicated for me...FL is still a free state..19 April 1775..the day of The Shot Heard Around the World... We are free because of their sacrifices... JPH
  11. Howdy: I gotta ask.....why no flux? I mean, I weld some high alloy stuff that most folks say can't be welded outside of a can but I do it in an open forge....Sure I use some nasty flux but it works.. Just use more than adequate ventilation.. It is rather rough on the forge lining...but that is what happens with these more aggressive chemicals.. but that is me... Now most folks would do quite well with a mix of anhydrous borax and boric acid..Especially when you are using the materials you are..these usually stick quite readily if the surfaces are clean and hot enough... Anyway that's t
  12. Howdy: I have a little experience in this ..so I hope you don't mind... From what you have described I would say two things...dirty weld surfaces and not enough soak time at heat.. Both are easy to correct. I weld some exotic stuff so I use a very aggressive flux and I hold at temp for a good 30 to 45 seconds longer than I think it is ready.. The photo below is the first weld of a bar that is 1 1/4" square and 12 " in length..materials are 1095, L-6 and stainless heat treat foil for colour 50 layers 1095, 45 layers L-6 25 layers SS foil to start..(see below). I tend to stay simp
  13. Howdy! Thanks to the old Corona Virus ALL of my trade shows/faires have been canceled..that means NO INCOME unless I get cracking and stuff posted on my website..So here are several pieces that were destined for RPFS in Irwindale, CA and since that is canceled for this year up they go to the website! So here are three of the latest from an old man's front yard.... The Kard is welded from 1905, L-6 and some meteoric iron and has phosphor bronze mounts and a red bovine ivory grip... The darker gripped dagger is in a Ladder Pattern welded from L-6, 1095 and meteorite. The grip i
  14. Tars Tarkas has expressed interest but he wants three more lust like it... I tell ya ERB had the pre-pubescent boy market cornered with his writing.. All I can say is Tarzan (Tar Mangani) is much darker and nastier as written than as he was portrayed on screen.. JPH
  15. Howdy: Here is something weird from the Old Man's front yard.. I wanted to make a nice long Seax since I am more or less burned out on the Japanese stuff...started out with some 1070, L-6 and some stainless heat treat foil..stacked it up and welded it...drew that out..split off the three bars and made the cores..Welded those all nice and solid then put on the steel edge and cut and formed the trip..This is where it went sideways.. I let my mind wander a bit... Well more than a bit.. so I put in a yelman...then twin fullers..then a recurve and well..this was suppose to be a seax but
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