Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'spring'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
  • Safety
  • Sections
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum

Categories

  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill

Categories

  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Location


Biography


Interests


Occupation

Found 12 results

  1. Hi all I am working on getting the critical bits to start this hobby. Anvil (check); Vise (maybe check!), forge (next). I was trying to read what I could on refurbishing an old vise and see multiple references to a post BP0060 which is on refurbing a vise, but can't seem to get a live link. Any technically savvy blacksmith advice appreciated... The one I got to day for $40 seems like it's in pretty good shape (even some grip left on the inside face of the jaw) but I think the spring needs to be re-worked (need to get that darn forge built/bought) and the movable arm bolt is the wrong size and era. The result of the latter item is that the front jaw drops - I think there is too much vertical play. Is there a preferred method for truing that up? Any advice on the spring. One other thing is that it appears the bolting plate is a different brand (Smart) than the rest of the unit (Endurance - made in Canada - with a serial number) though it fits snug. Wonder if the spring is the wrong one?
  2. I've just got my hands on an old mechanical hammer. All the main bearings are fitted with grease nipples. On a different, and very very old hammer, all the main bearings were fitted with wick oilers/cups. Grease always seemed to me a nice thing to catch and trap dust, grit, soot and other nasties. Is there consensus on whether oil or grease is better on particular bearings? Or all? The late, great G. Sarver says, somewhere on these forums, 30wt oil for everything, and he was a man who new what he was about. Your thoughts, hints, tips…?
  3. I needed a little fuller for dividing my work up when making a compass. Instead of welding a shaft to it to fit in the hardy hole, I made a bend so that it would lock into the hardy hole at an angle. Also, I decided I would make it look like a duck head, hence my duck head spring fuller. As you can see the hardy insert is bent 45 degrees so that it locks in and wont twist. The fuller is situated to rest on the near side of the anvil. Seems to work pretty well. Matthew Made this from an old 70 HM Evenrude shifting rod.
  4. To make a spring similar to the ones in these locks, assuming forging from scrap spring material... Would you harden and temper? To what color? Any recommendations on steel material? Thanks in advance.
  5. Hello smithy types, I have a quick question: I am forging a couple of 3 1/2" wide timber slicks for a pioneering program I help teach at two youth camps in the summer. I have a few pieces of 5160 truck leaf spring that are 5/8" tapering to 1/4" thick. What is the best way to go about forging the sockets. Would it be best to roll the socket and forge weld it (I have gotten to about 90% success rate with fire welding) or would it be best to forge a socket from a piece of pipe and then forge weld it to a tang drawn on the chisel?
  6. Hey Fellows! I just recently got my own touchmark and now I forged a pair of tongs specially to hold it. I forged it out by hand from 5/8" coil spring. It can hold 1/2" to 5/8" steel in a 90% angle. It has a built in tong clip and the reins are 1 foot and 1 3/4" inches long. Yours - Daniel
  7. First off I will say that this has nothing to do with knives, but it does have to do with heat treating. I am planning a project where I need to forge my own leaf spring. I'm thinking of forging it out of steel(i got it at homedepot so i don't know what kind it is) into the shape I need(which is tapering both ends of the steel then putting a bow into it). My question would be how can I get the most spring into it? I want it to be able to bend and return to the original shape with out it breaking or loosing the shape I forged it into. Feel free to ask any questions if it would help be able to answer my question. Since this is not about blades, I will relocate it to the proper area.
  8. Good Morning All, The local discount store has a set of 2 large springs, look like truck springs or lift kit springs, for about $30.00. The steel is at least 1/2' maybe more thick, the coil is about 5" to 6" wide and about 2' long. I have read about why not to use old junk yard springs due to a life time of bouncing around but I wondered about new springs. Can one cut a bit off and re-forge the steel? I will update with a picture this afternoon,
  9. Hello guys, so recently my dad picked up some steel at an old garage sale, and he got a very large coil spring and 2 long heavy drill bits, both of which are marked with the word Thor is fancy cursive. I have heard that both springs and drill bits are quality steel, but i was wondering if i could get help with some exact identification on the steel and info on how to heat treat it. Thanks! ​"for reference the the coil is about a half inch thick
  10. Alright I've been looking into building a lightweight tire hammer (somewhere around a 25 lb ram) and the one thing I can't get my hands on is the specs for spring. When in doubt, ask the experts, right? What kind of spring usually goes into the DuPont linkage?
  11. Hello all, First i would like to say its been well relativly forever since i have posted or commented anything on here but im trying to get alittle better about that. So my main reason for posting this is to talk about a knife i plan to make for my mother as part of her christmas present. It will be made out of leaf spring and hopefully will have a bone handle with a full tang. I would of course appriciate any tips or tricks anyone has picked up on working with both materials. I will of course be posting pictures as soon as i am able. I have already roughed out the tang and plan to start forming the blade today. Thank you for your time, Timothy Well i worked some on it today and this is hows it come out. I do however think it has turned into a clever of some sort and the tip did curve up to much as i didn't compensate for the bevel quite enough i guess i forgot how thick a leaf spring was. I hope you like it. Ohh also yes i am forging in converses... probably not my best idea ever. http://imgur.com/a/PRn8e Tim
  12. clinton

    Henry Wright vise

    I went ahead and made a new bracket and spring for this vise. The bracket is forged-fabricated, I torched it out of a piece of 1/2 inch plate then forged the box area and welded it with a mig welder. Forged the collar that goes around the leg and wedges. I listed it on craigslist locally, if it does not sell in a week I will put it on ebay and see what happens there