D.C.

Congrats Theo! Glad to see more of our members represent on that show. Speaking of, is Frank Christensen still active on the site? I know he endorses it in person and sends people here.

That's a Fisher...excellent quality anvils. Always test ever anvil you look to purchase for rebound, but with fishers, don't expect them to ring. Fishers are notoriously quiet due to their cast body with a hardened steel face.

Noah...quick clarification... Is the casting seam on THE FACE of the anvil, or running down below the horn/heel? GE made some good anvils, especially the "Daniels design" farriers anvil. Pics are always helpful.

I sell agricultural repair tools. I also assist in design and fabrication. It lets me travel to ag shows all over the U.S.and Canada.

Well done! That is a great use for the blade. And the contrast with the wood is perfect

Very cool score. I can't find a pic, but I think there were several of these in the learners tent at the ABANA conference in SLC this year.

The 15 could indicate weight. I've seen fishers marked 10 for 100#, 7 for 70#...So 15 for 150#

And the sandbox anvil stand has been used successfully for years. Simple to build a tall box that's dimensions match your anvils footprint. Add sand and anvil. Hopefully in that order. Aside from the advantage of a solid base, it's also infinitely adjustable for height.

Thingamabobber

Thanks for the pics. Your fullering tool/guillotine is almost identical to mine! I use old snow plow cutting edges for the dies. What did you use?

That is an awesome piece of steel. Hope you grabbed it! (Sorry, no useful info on your question. Just had to comment since I've been hunting for just such a piece)

Love the look of the hammer. I usually don't worry about my handles much, but that tree really sets the whole thing off. What grade steel was the starting stock for the head?

Honestly, I don't think you can go wrong any Swedish anvil.

Thanks SCB! The picture is dang close the partial remnants of the stamp.

By definition, I tend to think that collecting doesn't exclude using. I can't think of a better description of my piles of blacksmithing stuff than a collection...though the wife calls it "all that rusty crap"......so i guess it's semantics :-) BTW Thomas, I can't thank you enough for the TPAAAT write up. Every anvil I've obtained came from using your technique.

Ah, thanks for the clarification.

I had to look those up..... Beautifully made, I love the lines. I can understand why you collect them

I can't say I remember if there was or wasn't....it's been a couple months. I think there may have a an oval, but I could be thinking of my Columbian Soderfors. I thought most Kohlswas had raised markings?

Firstly...I AM NOT A KNIFE MAKER. But I have been know to buy a few. So as a consumer, I would say it totally depends on your price point to begin with. Are we taking a 200$ knife, or a 1,500$ art piece. If your only asking a couple hundred, honestly I wouldn't sweat those types of minor "mistakes". At those prices, a customer is paying for hand crafted quality. Hand crafted is NOT perfection. Just a customers 2¢

This little anvil passed through my hands recently, and I wanted to document it in case anyone else stumbles across a similar one. I know they've been discussed here before, but nothing in the reviews. So here's some fresh info. Stamped "90 lbs Made in Sweden" with a small star with either a crown or fleur de lis inside the star. Definitely cast steel. Weighed in at 90.8# 3/4" hardy hole. This had seen some honest work done on it, one side was chipped the entire length. Plenty of punches made on this little guy as evidenced by the almost complete obliteration of the marking. This is probably made by Soderfors, having the distinctive flats on the feet. It did not however have any of the other "usual" markings. I swear I've seen an old advert with the name "northern star" and these markings. So, REVIEW! Like any cast Swede, this thing rings like a clarion bell. Rebound is excellent 95%+. While you can clearly see the casting lines under the horn and heel, it doesn't detract from the excellent quality of these anvils. Even a 90# like this will move metal like you wouldn't believe. Lesson, cast + made in Sweden = perfection! P.S. I passed this on to a budding smith nearby.

Hmm.. I've not handled many HBs. Brands are relatively unimportant to working smiths, since it's the function that all important....yet it's still fun to collect, compare, and contrast. Anvils and power hammers..for most of us it's the only two tools we really pay attention to the manufacturer. Sure there are well known historical hand tool makers, but there's a special allure to our big boy toys, right? Or maybe I'm the only anvil addict ;-)

Yeah, there is certainly no work without a contract. Learned that long ago

Been stalking this thing for literally 2 years. Owner is now building a new house, and during my last visit she offered to possibly trade it for decorative iron work for the new construction. She's pretty attached to the anvil, but we'll see where it goes. The trade was her idea, not mine.

So, I am sorry to do this, but I'm looking to try to ID an anvil that may be coming my way. I'm usually good at spotting the usuals, but without being able to wire wheel it, I am struggling to recognize any distinguishing features. Roughly 200+lbs. Hardy hole is either 1.5 or 1.75". 85%+ rebound. No depression in the base, single handling holes front and rear, and one on the bottom. No visible stamps on sides or front foot. Located in Wyoming usa....so I think I covered all the bases I can currently. I know, SUPER VAGUE....but maybe the pattern gives some clue? Thanks guys!

No blasting, just high speed wire wheel. I started polishing the crowns a while ago, since most of mine were mangled. But the few that have "personality", like unusual stamping, or really unique corrosion, those I wire wheel and let be.