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  1. My newest anvil has been living on the floor. It's 125lb, unmarked. I think it's a PW given other anvils I've seen. I'd like to get it set up so I can host 2 people and reduce traffic jams. My first anvil was a 279lb german pattern. I set it up on a properly sized stump. I cut the wood green, debarked, burned, and oiled the stump. I used the leveling method for chainsaw cutting demonstrated by The Essential Craftsman on Youtube. I carved a funny shape out of the bottom, so the stump rests on three "pads" of wood. I carved out the top to fit the shape of the anvil. I used large chain, lag bolts, and turnbuckles to secure it down tight (with some glue in between maybe, I can't recall). Let's bring our attention back to the 1 0 13. My original plan was to make another stump base. I like the first one. It's a moderately heavy stump so it adds to the overall mass. It is secured tight and everything is level. It doesn't walk around on me when forging. (This may be mainly due to the mass of the anvil itself). I can roll and maneuver it around. I could replicate this approach for the new anvil, however the anvil mass isn't nearly as large. I have a (seasoned) large oak trunk sourced, so the base would be heavier for this anvil. The next plan is a section of pipe/ pipe spool that currently resides on craigslist. The owner is asking $150, however I think my value is half, if it works for my application. It is only 8" in diameter. It has a top and bottom "ring-plate/flange". It appears to be professionally constructed. The owner said it weighs about 100lbs. The problem is that it is only 22" tall. For this shorter anvil, I need a base of 28". (For the stump option I was planning for my initial cut size to be 28". This has enough tolerance to find the stump height in the 27"ish range.) The 22" pipe is not enough. I need a way to fabricate and bring the height of the anvil taller. I would like to add 1" immediately by making a base plate for the anvil to rest on top of. Base plate is welded to the top of the pipe. The problem is defined. It needs to be taller. I'll dive into some of my thoughts and concerns, but I'd love to hear ideas in all directions. Is this going to be too "wobbly" because of of the "narrow" diameter of the pipe (8")? Can I flare out a base to increase it's stability? Will this add enough mass on a wide footprint to make up for the stability problem. (I will not be anchoring the anvil into concrete). If am aiming for 27" of base so I need to make up 5 inches. 1" as a top plate for the anvil and 1" as a bottom plate for the welded "legs" to adhere to leaves 3" of height to be made up. The width of the pipe flange adds (maybe) 3" per side. Total flange size is 13.5". 3" legs set at 45 degrees gives an extra 6" of base. Is an 19.5" base sufficient. Is it too large? I could reduce the slope of the legs to 60 degrees. For the legs, I'm envisioning 1" plate cut out with a torch. I can remove material very quickly on the belt grinder, so I don't mind cutting large, rough, and learning as I go. I'd love to brainstorm with others. This pipe may be a great starting point, or a total waste of time. Another note: The pipe would be a great place to fill with sand adding to the mass and likely absorbing noise, vibration, etc. I have 80 lbs of lead I could re-melt into the base. (This may be the winner and it was my last edit to this post. This would make the center of gravity much lower than distributed mass thru the column.) Another question: Do people add rubber to the bottom of steel legs?
  2. I'm considering purchasing the Peter Wright anvil in the top of the picture. The only comparison I have is my own which is the one in the bottom of the picture. Top is 241 lb and bottom is 96 lb. There is a noticeable difference in shape. The heel on the 241 is shorter than the 96. There is a difference in shape in the waist area. I am also concerned with the face. It doesn't sit far above the table like my 96. Any help in explaining the difference is appreciated.
  3. Hi, I'm fairly new to this forum, and after browsing around, decided to make an account on account of anvils. Arguably, the most difficult part of starting out blacksmithing is finding the proper tools, but this applies especially to anvils (as I believe) as they are varied, expensive, difficult to move around, and overall requires a lot of work to acquire a good one. However, I believe I may have found something great 138 miles from me is a 219 pound Peter Wright anvil going for $700. Not exactly the best price ($3.12 a pound) but in my part of California that's pretty much the best you'll get. There are a lot of visible dings and imperfections, and I can't do anything about those because I don't own a welder, much less filler rods. The question for me right now is if I should go the distance and purchase this anvil, clean it up with an angle grinder, and simply call it a day, or should I purchase another option I've heard was good? Here's the pictures. Craigslist link removed
  4. So a few years ago I acquired an old peter Wright but then life got in the way and it has been resting at my parents house until today when i decided that I want to start Black-smithing so i know that this Anvil has seen some hard use well before I got it but I was wondering how much hard use it got since it is missing several of the hallmarks I think it is a rather early export ( New Jersey USA) i took my hammer to it and she rings very nicely so i know she still has a lot left to give. I am working on getting a stump this weekend to begin setting it up and have plenty of old horse shoes to bang away on. My wife is very excited about me working with metal since she has a bit of a love affair with metal. any information on the Anvil would be greatly appreciated, i think the engraving shows up better in the picture then it does the naked eye.
  5. I’ve been looking to get into blacksmithing for a while now and finally started getting things together. I found this Peter Wright anvil today. I wasn’t super excited about the plate that was welded on, but it was supposedly done right and re heat treated by a local machine shop here in okc. Haven’t had a chance to test with a ball beating but it does seem to have a good ring to it and I can’t find any dead spots. After seeing how much these usually go for I thought $240 was too good to pass up. Any thoughts/advice on this?
  6. Hello all - I am hoping I can get some help identifying my great grandfather's anvil. He was a blacksmith in the town I grew up in and this anvil sat outside his shop. Unfortunately I never got the opportunity to talk about it's significance or details of what makes this guy special. I've talked with a couple of farriers and they say it has a few features they havnt seen, and believe it to be rather special. Some talking points were it's length, the tool attachment knock outs and the nub hanging off of the from portion. Can anyone help me out and provide additional information? Anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  7. I want to show my new anvil. Posted on eBay, just 60 miles from me. If my math is correct it weight 169/170 pounds. I paid 405 and 120 miles round trip. Two questions for the experts, photo one shows two crosses under the horn, any significance? There is also a V on the bottom of picture three under the Peter Wright stamp. What does that mean? I don't see any other markings to identify age. Thanks, Duane
  8. Well I picked up my first post vise today. I found it at an antique store in Comfort, TX. It’s a 4” Peter Wright post vise. I think for $160 I got a pretty sweet deal. It’s in amazing condition. Now just to browse for a decent way to mount this sucker.
  9. Hi all. I want to identify my anvil I live in New Zealand but my anvil came from Birmingham England (told by the original owner before me) i have wire buffed and found only one mark in the middle of the front foot I will attach photos. Thanks for all the help in advance.
  10. Any of you out there that have any tips for spotting a Soderfors in a crowd without any obvious marks? The feet appear to be similar to Peter wright with the little step on them; correct? Anything else that screams Soderfors that I should be looking for?
  11. Hi, I was recently looking at a Peter Wright anvil and the pictures the seller sent me made me a little nervous. The far away pictures look OK but the zoomed in photos show some pretty deep looking gouges in the face (maybe just because they are close up). Is this OK or is it in need of repair? Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated. Best Regards, Jason
  12. I just got this anvil for our blacksmith school and its a 588lb anvil with 2 separate 2 inch hardy holes. I have read in AIA that some peter wrights do not have any markings and the feet and other characteristics on this anvil fit that of a Peter Wright. I come to you all as a relatively new member for your expertise and to see if this size anvil is common and to learn more. I am hoping to see if you all think this is a good anvil and what your thoughts are. Thank you again.
  13. I picked up this Henry Wright Dudley anvil a few days ago. I used a wire wheel to clean it up. A few questions.... at the base, there's the #5 stamped on the corners. Any significance? Also, I'm concerned about de-lamination. I lightly smoothed the edges to remove any sharp corners. But, there is one area that looks cracked. I don't want to blindly grind away without consulting more opinions. Overall, I think it's a very well preserved anvil. Thanks for looking!
  14. Hello everyone...need some anvil expertise. I located an anvil about an hour away from me. The gentleman indicated it's a Henry Wright- OAL: 28" Face Width: 4.5" Height: 11" with the numbers 174 stamped on it. My guess is 174lbs. But, I have come across information that Henry Wrights also used the English Hundredthweight System. Can someone please verify. Thanks!
  15. Hi All, I'm new to this site and I really wanted to share my story with you all. I've been wanting to get into blacksmithing for sometime now, so I set about gathering the basic tools. As you can imagine, living in Thailand, its very difficult to find blacksmithing tools and the ones that I did find are really expensive (antique dealers). Anyway, I found out by word of mouth that a guy was selling an anvil, so me and the wife took a drive out to his place. Upon arrival to his shop I saw this monster anvil on display. I couldn't believe my eyes, I pretty much knew what it was at first sight and got really excited. I've been searching for anvils in Thailand for about 1 year, but with no luck, good ones are sold very quickly and for ridiculous prices. We met the owner and his wife and they turned out to be pickers, travelling all over Thailand collecting treasures. They picked up this anvil 3 years ago from a place called Ayutthaya and apparently it was left behind from the Japanese occupation during the WW2. I searched all over the anvil for makers marks, stamps etc... I was almost certain it was indeed a peter wright anvil with 3.2.2 weight on the side. It also had Patent Wrought but Peter Wright wasn't visible. Other marks was a Japanese name Takamiyagi which I suspect was the Japanese Blacksmith but can't be certain. Also it had a Mathieson Glasgow stamp with logo on it, after some research it found out that Mathieson Glasgow was a hand tool manufacturer in Glasgow, Scotland in the 1800's, so I suspect this monster anvil was at some point in their factory but can't be 100% certain. I found it very interesting how this anvil ended up in Thailand. Its in pretty good shape also, doesn't appear to have been abused. The owner didn't want to sell it, but I had to have it. He eventually gave in and sold it to me. As far as I know its the only Peter Wright anvil of this size in Thailand, actually I've never heard of another Peter Wright in Thailand but i'm sure there will be somewhere waiting to be found Anyway, hope you all like it. Thanks, Tony.
  16. Hello All! I just bought my first anvil and it's a Peter Wright 1 2 12. As I understand those numbers equate to 180lbs? I was curious if anyone out there knows an age range on this anvil. It says Peter Wright Patent Solid Wrought 1 2 12. I'm also curious to what the flute on the back end is for and the square holes in the base (not the hardy). Thanks!
  17. Greetings, everyone. I've always had an interest in blacksmithing and a few weeks ago decided to take a class to see if it was as enjoyable as I thought it would be. And of course it was, so I decided I'd like to keep it up. I've been looking for anvils at estate sales and online, and came across a Peter Wright that a woman was selling on Craigslist. It was originally painted with a layer of red and a layer of blue when I picked it up. She guessed it was around 150 pounds but couldn't tell for sure. The numbers on it are 1-1-6, so it should weigh 146, right? On a scale it comes in closer to 144, but as long as it'll take a beating, that's all that matters. I stripped the paint off of it using electrolysis and some paint stripper and hit it with a wire wheel and some CLP to clean it up to see what I've actually got. There are some markings on it, and I'd really like to identify the age if possible. I don't have Anvils in America, and I unfortunately can't find it at my local library, so I'm asking for help here. Can anyone give me a rough idea on how old they think it is? I've uploaded what it looks like cleaned up as well as when there was still some red stuck on it. I noticed there's what looks like a 3 stamped in the rear foot. As far as I can tell, other than what's in the pictures, I can't find anything else. It measures about 24" long with the face being 4" and the hardie hole being 1". Can anyone offer any insight or knowledge?
  18. I'm looking for tips or any type of do's & don't's advice I can get on restoring a Peter Wright anvil. The other day I was playing with my brake drum forge. I live on the corner so people are always driving by. I had a man offer to sell me a anvil. He was a older guy real nice. Told me he bought it at a estate sale 5 years ago but can no longer be around coal so had no use for it. Right now I'm in the middle of replacing my vans head gaskets so I couldn't go see it and knew he likely couldn't text me or email pictures. I asked him everything I could about it and he felt it was in good shape and flat. He then told me all he wanted was to see it be used and only wanted me to pay him what he had in it. Said he knows they're going for a good bit now but he said he paid $85 and only wants the $85 he put in it. So I was all over it like xxxx even though I only had $90 to my name and bought it sight unseen! After 15 hours of electrolysis removing tons of paint grease and rust I can see it's been road hard. It's got marks all over the face and someone has welded it before on the edges poorly. Marks from a stick welder tapping on it. Clearly was used to cut on.. What's the best way I can rebuild it? It's a 137lb (1-0-25) Peter Wright. Has (2) 4's on the front feet. I'm not sure what they mean. I'm not sure how the Peter Wright anvil was faced and don't want to hurt it more than it is. The guy who sold it to me never got to use it. I don't think he knew it was poorly welded. It had to much paint and rust to see it. I also feel he was honest because he showed of with the paper from when he bought it and tried to lower the price to $75. I gave him the $85 and he said he was going to give the other $10 to feed homeless kids. I must of had some good karma coming. Even had a nice big hot cut hardie! How can I bring this back to life?
  19. Finally got my first anvil! Just posting because of my excitement. Can't wait to put it to use. It was marked for 350$ I got it for 200$ to the untrained eye the rebound is about 75% and the ring is super loud. Definitely going to require hearing protection when I start using it. Only down side was I had to drive 2 hours one way to get it. Not real sure of the age.
  20. Hay everyone, several years ago my grand father handed his old anvil that he had gotten from his father over to me. What looks to be an old Peter Wright. As of two year ago I started putting it to use, making knives here and there and just generally fixing things. Also coming up in a few weeks I have a booth for a local farmer's market that I'd like to include hand forged items in. One thing that's always bugged me about it though is the lack of any square edges. All of it is 1/4-1/2" radius where its not been chipped and its been a trial just to make tongs. I know a lot of you will just say use i as it is but it would be nice if I could get at least one edge square for at least a few inches. Anyways, pictures down below, let me know what you all think.
  21. Does anyone see an issue with me grinding and sanding the horn and shelf on this anvil? The marks are making me crazy and it pi$$es me off when I see them.
  22. mlinn77

    Rescued leg vise

    Hi I just picked this up at auction and at a good price, it was all seized up and rusty, but all there, works like new now, just curious about maybe a age and confirmation on maker. It has 7inch jaws and about 150lbs, only mark is a J on the inside leg, its looks all hand forged, tool steel forged welded on the jaws. From reading different post I'm leaning towards a Peter wright. Attached is before and after and next to a 4 inch vise. That's not my set up just got the pictures.
  23. Very proud to say I picked this anvil up last week for my shop, and am looking to identify the brand and vintage. This will be my new main forging anvil so I am looking to clean it up and mainly want to know it's story I think it is a Peter Wright from the research I have done by design of the feet but I am a newbie at anvil identification. I weighed it and it is a hair under 300 pounds I believe it is Forged Steel construction. It has no markings other than a "H" on each side of the front foot. I have cleaned up the sides and nothing. It looks as if the machinists tested there punches on the side face and have destroyed any markers mark, brand stamp, or weight stamping. It rings like a bell, and has good rebound. I never thought I would own an anvil of this quality and size. I bought this anvil from an individual cleaning out his deceased fathers old workshop. He believed his father acquired this anvil from CN (Canadian National) Railway shop, as his father used to work for CN. It has seen some serious work which makes sense with the CN Story. I may get it refaced at a local machine shop. Also looking for advice on this.
  24. Put together and anvil stand over the past few days (anvil is peter wright) and also forged my first metal: heated metal in my woodstove (Tough to get a good hat but I managed). It felt great. We are starting to thaw (Northeast) and in the next several weeks I hope to get the forge (Centaur) operating.
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