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I Forge Iron

Steve Sells

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Everything posted by Steve Sells

  1. Steve Sells
    YES!!! you are getting the idea now
  2. Steve Sells
    I dont think you really need 20 wide honestly. 20 was not an exact measurement, 14 or 16 may be better. the HVAC guys here would have a better idea. MY numbers were just an example. FYI My forge is huge, 30 x 60 inch deck, 2 pallets of brick and 10 or so flue tiles to make it
  3. Steve Sells
    I was talking about 4 inches deep and 20 wide. Above the fire, out of the way, it transitions to a 10 or 12 inch round. The point is you wont have to give up 12 inches of space between the fire pot deck and the wall to have a side draft. A side draft sucks the gasses into the pipe, where as a hood attempts (poorly) to collect it as it rises, along with massive amounts of room air
  4. Steve Sells
    Use non carbide saw blades. The carbides bodies are soft steel plate where as mono steel care many times L6 a chrome/moly alloy which is near perfect for this
  5. Steve Sells
    You do not need 12 inch depth for the side draft, it can be a few inches deep and not need 12 inches depth to work, example 4 inch by 20 inch will work also taking up less floor space, than the 12 inch you suggested.
  6. Steve Sells
    Let us know how the taming goes John
  7. Steve Sells
    I used my chop saw and only used an abrasive blade
  8. Steve Sells
    Edge up I dont know of any bladesmiths using flap disks, but there may be a few
  9. Steve Sells
    There is no more risk in sharpening edge grabbing onto the moving force of the belt, any more than the spine doing it. That is nonsense. I use edge up so I can see the edge thickness, and keep it even. so edge into the belt, since running the belt the other direction would just throw the metal dust into your face
  10. Steve Sells
    no clue your linking rather than just posting failed, there is no photo
  11. Steve Sells
    and YES you will lose a fair amount of material in the process
  12. Steve Sells
    300 series is NOT good for a cutting tool, get 440
  13. Steve Sells
    My shop is about 200 sq ft also, and I cant see your AC having any real effect while the forge is working, if you have enough intake air flow to allow enough O2 and general ventilation for proper flue operation unless you are only standing in the direct output of the AC unit
  14. Steve Sells
    Normalizing should not effect it , its the Austenite/Martensite transformation that will change it
  15. Steve Sells
    I will ad that IMHO my 60 grit Blaze are well worth the cost
  16. Steve Sells
    but that is exactly what heating and quenching with water does, makes that area brittle from the hardening
  17. Steve Sells
    OP has not returned since making this post
  18. Steve Sells
    I may as well be the one to rain on your parade, because I dont know where you got the idea of using water, but you may have ruined that steel because O1 is not water hardening, its OIL hardening, that is what the O means it could be fine, tho it could now have many micro fractures, time and hard use will tell
  19. Steve Sells
    How are you hardening it now? you are aware that tempering is useless unless you harden it first right?
  20. Steve Sells
    what alloy of Titanium?, there are very few pure Titanium blocks around
  21. Steve Sells
    but if it were about blades, wouldn't he have posted it in the HT knife section rather than general
  22. Steve Sells
    thank you
  23. Steve Sells
    My son is working on a project and would like info on what the price of steel was in the Southern USA in 1905
  24. Steve Sells
    the pattern seen in SOME blades is from using multiple kinds of steels to forge weld the patterns into the steel, because different stels react differebtly to the acid, the etching only shows what is already there. Mono steels wont show anything
  25. Steve Sells
    Using non standard formats is not recommended. if you wish people to actually see your photo use GIF or JPG formats
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