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I Forge Iron


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About Keganthewhale

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    Advanced Member

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    Hubert, NC
  • Interests
    God, my wife, my family, blacksmithing, skateboarding, reading, shooting, pottery, drawing, sculpting, extreme sports.

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  1. I searched but couldn't find anything on actually forging the threads for screw vices. I'm assuming this has been done at some point in the past so I assume there might be some book that has the info, if so, can anyone point me to that book (or books)? Or if anyone has experience forging one I'd love to hear about it. I was wondering if you has a top/bottom die for a single thread on a press, then work your way down till you had enough threads, could you effectively forge one out like that?
  2. So I'm getting one of those fancy 16 ton coal iron works presses soon and I want to make it as useful and efficient as possible and I know tooling is the name of the game! I personally like the idea of using standard top and bottom tools within reason because you should be able to use them everywhere, from power hammers, to strikers, to under the fancy press. But would love to have pics of your favorite tooling and how you use it!
  3. so then the only reason to have any solid shape other than a pillar is strictly to have enough mass to keep the hammer from moving? it doesn't help in any other way?
  4. i'm not building one! its just strange to me that the idea is thrown around (and it might have been sand in other parts of the hammer as a whole just to add weight) and i am seriously just intrigued as to how that energy transfers, and how the shape of the anvil affects it efficiency. just like how you don't do the majority of your forging an inch in from the hardy hole on a london pattern, because the mass isn't directly beneath where your hammer falls and that makes it less efficient.
  5. So after looking at a number of threads and reading through more pages and posts than i can count i've decided to ask the question! how does the anvil work on home made power hammers? everyone says that solid is better, of this i have no doubt, but my question is more specifically how does the blow transfer and reverberate through that material? for instance, in the helve/krusty/rusty style of hammer everyone wishes they could their hands on a rail-car axle due to its substantial girth and solid weight, so its easy to see how the force from the tup would travel straight into the piece that you
  6. pictures would be great! everyone loves pictures!
  7. Also being in the military and having similar situations or working with C-wire or anything I've taken to working with nomex gloves that I cut off about 1/3 of the finger length but my palms are protected when working with shorter pieces that the dragons breath heats to a bit more than I'm comfortable with. These are similar to a pair I work in (http://www.mcguirearmynavy.com/US-GI-USMC-Nomex-Gloves.html )and I enjoy them and they have saved my from many a burn from slips or thoughtless touching. I also was issued smalls when i needed mediums which is why i originally cut the finger tips off,
  8. It is awesome that you were so consistent without jigs or anything, i'm impressed! i got contacted by a consignment gallery to make house numbers for them to sell, not what i would have done of my own accord, but it is what they asked for! Sorry that it is so far away, i know it will be difficult to see any detail.
  9. As a current Marine I know several people that are interested in it and come over to forge, however we aren't the guys that see combat, soi can't speak from that angle. However, it's a great way to destress and work out the day to day stress that accompanies the military lifestyle.
  10. Being in CA, where coal is either hard to find or expensive when found, I would suggest propane. That is unless you have plenty of space and access to pallets or lots of wood to be turned into charcoal with a retort.
  11. If you put your location on your profile there are often smiths close by who help each other out.
  12. All I know, is that when I got it, the face had puddles of welds on the face ad sides, what you are seeing here is after an hour (or more) of using a grinder with a flap disk. But as you can see the entire face still has what seems like pitting, but it's deeper than any pitting I've ever seen on anvils before. But I will adhere to what is being advised and it will be used as it is. Although the wife will probably be using it, I'll stick to my first fisher :)
  13. Here is the face as a whole The hardy hole and the damage done when they tried to plug it and weld it in An a close up of some of the arc gouging.
  14. I am sorry for getting defensive, but I understand where you are coming from and hadn't realized how important a statement as to how I appropriately came by it would be as important as it is. If you had just posted you had Steel, it would have been fine. You made an open statement it came from the railroad. That is a resource that some smiths may not know should not be used to casually collect salavge, it should be stated how you got RR properrty to prevent someone else from getting arrested from not knowing.
  15. If it's marine corps property and was given to me then I don't see where the problem is. If anything it would fall back into the person who have me permission (site head), not me.
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