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I Forge Iron

Drunken Dwarf

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About Drunken Dwarf

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    drunkendwarf.co.uk

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    Norwich, UK

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  1. After going through and hunting Ebay, the British members are right, you can still get hold of it, not from your local supermarket anymore. I finished off the pine stand, looks lovely. Got it nice and flat with a quick router jig. Even welded up a couple of hammer racks for the side. Frosty, the only thing I will say is no, Brexit has not helped with anything. And I'll refrain from saying anything more on my views of that due to the forums rules on political content
  2. Many things are regulated and there are so many factors to regulation that you can't really use that as any basis for judgement. But I like to at least look up the stuff I don't know about before I use it, if you don't get into the habit of that then it's not a big stretch to start thinking "Well, galvanised steel is everywhere and cheap, why shouldn't I build my forge pipe out of it" if you've never actually come across the dangers of zinc.
  3. You definiately can't get it in supermarkets here, possibly chemists but that would be the only option. Looking at the classifications it's considered a risk to fertility and unborn children. The risk is obviously negligable, and yes, it does seem extreme. But on the other hand, just because people use it doesn't mean it's safe.
  4. I googled about getting Borax in the UK and came across some hippe girls blog saying that it's been reclassified in the EU as a hazardous material (which we knew already) but that reclassification means it can't be bought in the EU or UK, only borax substitute (dont know if it works the same way for smithing). Although the standard English method taught over here, and I know used by my local smiths, is not to use flux at all. Welding becomes more about maintaining a clean fire.
  5. Thank you for all of the awesome input. You guys never cease to be incredibly helpful. After this I will go ahead with what I have, I've got the day off on Wedensday to finish the stand ;) I've cut it 1cm too high on purpose and my plan is to use my router to route out a 1cm deep footprint of my anvil to keep it nice and secure horizontally. (Got a sheet of dense rubber to lay in the cutout too for deadening). And treat the stand with BLO probably. Anvil will be fastened down with chain and turn buckles, shouldn't take more than a day to get it all finished:)
  6. This is true. I didn't flesh out my original post enough I don't think. There are ways to fabricate an anvil stand without welding, that's true, my personal preference would be for a wooden stand but in reality, getting a forging surface going is more important to me than personal preference. However, if possible I would like to limit costs, my main interest is whether I can use the sleeper-made block I have as I already have it so there's no additional costs/time etc.
  7. Hi all I have a question about the wood for my anvil stand. I made a stand (not quite finished yet) out of the largest peices of wood I could find locally (100mm x 200mm sleepers). They're kinda roughly glues together (sleepers weren't flat and I lack the proper tooling to make them flat, but it's pretty xxxx strong) I was listening to "The Forgecast" in the truck and they said that the one wood to not make your stand out of is pine, due to the fire hazard of the sap and oils. The sleepers I used commercial link removed were advertised as "Scandanavian Softwood", now just listed as softwood, so there's a good chance they are pine if not spruce. The wood itself seems pretty dry and it's pressure treated, (I didnt know if the podcast was talking about sawn, treated wood or fresh stumps), would the fire safety still be an issue with what I have or could I safely use it? Any advice would be great (except for replacing it with steel, I can't weld) Many thanks Drunken Dwarf
  8. So the oven cleaner and hand wire brush did absolutely nothing The example on the previous post was lye based, but I don't think we can get that in our country, at least it's not readily available in supermarkets. There was hints of another colour coming through (more the brushing than the cleaner) so I think there's more than 1 coat of paint on it. I will move up to the wire wheel I think. While I'm taking it slow on what I do with the anvil, I'm also building the anvil stand which has been fun, a bit surprised by the height though. I've read a lot through the anvil height thread, I'd originally just thought about the knuckle height rule, however I did make a tall block of wood and strike it, adjusting the height until I got full round impressions, and was really surprised that it was at BELOW knuckle height, even though there was a lot of comments that wrist height is actually better as the old knuckle height is based off having strikers and top tools. I am wondering whether I was standing closer to the block than I could to an anvil or if there was something wrong with my posture, though I tried to keep the back straight.
  9. I absolutely don't wish to rush and damage my new baby. This Saturday I will take what I consider to be the lightest approach (a bit of surface/oven cleaner and a hand brush) and try it on the underside of the feet in a small area to have a look at the result. Then work up from there I do understand the 'petina' which will not build up again in my lifetime, however in my mind, petina is an aging effect on metal, seeing as this appears to be painted I'd say that ship has already sailed.
  10. Just to get a look at the stamping on the side I was thinking of this oven cleaner technique Here which was linked to in this IFI post about cleaning an anvil Post My reasoning behind this is that I could do it more carefully with a wire brush by hand, rather than a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder. Any opinions on this?
  11. Thanks for the advice. I'll be wire wheeling it, and some BLO this weekend maybe a little marmite. There are faint weight marks on the side but I can't make them out, they might be clearer once I've got the paint off.
  12. Hi everyone. After quite a while of checking gumtree every day and raising some funds via the sale of an old guitar, I am thrilled with my new anvil. It cost me £250 and was being used as a flowerbed decoration and although there's some damage to one edge, it's not something I'm particularly worried about. I THINK it's been painted, it looks unusually black, there's a faint indentation for some markings but I can't make them out at all, definitely doesn't show on picture. It's 87cm long, 31cm tall and 14.5cm wide across the face. (34.25" x 12.2" x 5.7") and took 2 of us to lift it into my trailer (was difficult) ... My wife is a nurse and says she has at work some scales for ..... ahem ... larger patients, hopefully I can get a weight on it. Should I clean it up? By cleaning I mean stripping the paint and rust off, and if so, how? I was thinking a wire cup wheel on a grinder, or soak in paint remover for an hour or so before washing off. I've seen oven cleaner clean up a painted/rusty vice well (I think on this forum). I see people painting their anvils and always thought that would make them less effective, at least on the face/horn? Also, I love the lustre of bare metal anvils, maybe with a bit of oil to preserve them, but I really don't want to wreck it. Any thoughts would be appreciated, and especially curious as to whether I got a good deal or not on it.
  13. Hi all. I've gone through many plans of my JABOD forge, (In the amount of time I've spent thinking about it I could've built it 5 times). My main issue is that I wanted a steel box rather than wood, and cannot weld. I've just come into an old kettle barbecue which I'm going to line with fire clay and make into a side-blast JABOD forge (for charcoal). My plan is to use the lid of the barbecue as a hood (cut in halfish) with a 10" chimney pipe as crudely shown in the sketch attached. My questions are: Will the BBQ lid work as a forge hood? One thing I don't really understand is smoke shelves and what their purpose is (I've read through a lot in these forums). Also whether I'll have to block off some of the opening to make it smaller or whether the lid cut in half with a bit of an overhang over the firepot will work without making the opening smaller. (The BBQ bowl diameter is about 22", 7" deep and lid about 7" high) For the spiral tube, stainless steel is very expensive, while galvanized mild steel is really quite cheap. Is there any easy way to make the galvanized suitable for this as its right over the fire and will burn? I realize airflow should take all the internal gasses outside, but the exterior of the pipe I imagine would still give off fumes. I wish to take NO risks with galvanization if possible, it scares me a little.
  14. I've been googling and all I can find is 'cowl', please, enlighten us who can't remember what it used to be called
  15. What sort of mix did you use for the fireclay? I've been reading https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/21170-mixing-fire-clay/ and a couple of posts mention a 2-3 to 1 mix with sand, not entirely sure if that's 2-3 parts clay to 1 part sand or the other way around.
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