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I Forge Iron

Pat Masterson

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    Morganville NJ

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  1. Oh man - this is a good idea. Especially if they were brass Bluerooster. This globe is absolutely torturing me. So first try was the JB Weld but that stuff melted when I tried to blacken everything for paste wax. So Frosty suggested blackening everything separately then use clear epoxy and I actually had some. But like a dummy I didn’t hit the contact spots with some sand paper so the epoxy had something to stick to so everything popped right off from the slightest touch. So I pulled the continents off again and hit the contact spots but realized the epoxy I had was the type that people make jewelry and similar stuff out of on YouTube - wasn’t going to set up fast enough and I thought that stuff might end up being weaker than some 5min stuff. But I had Gorilla glue. Surely that would work as I’ve used it before. What I didn’t remember was what I used previously on steel was Gorilla Clear Gel Super Glue..NOT the original brown stuff which is what I had. So I was finally ready to glue them up and do the final assembly. Got everything clamped into place and started gluing away - some of you already know what happens next I’m sure. Original brown Gorilla Glue is an expanding glue so it bubbles and becomes a milky yellowish color. Needless to stay this looked absolutely awful against the the rest of globe. It literally looked like someone had blown a bunch of terrible sneezes all over it. So as soon as I realized why it was looking so terrible I AGAIN removed the continents and then spent around an hour removing the snot glue and hitting all the pieces with a wire wheel - they were just looking ugly after being handled so much to remove the snot glue so I’ll have to blacken everything again. So I went to Home Depot and got the correct clear gel super glue and 5 min clear epoxy both from Gorilla and both say non expanding. I just got home and Im completely exhausted as it’s now 3:30pm and I got out there at 6 this morning. This thing was supposed to be finished last weekend so this weekend I could start on Christmas presents. Going to try doing some forge welds and making some basket twist tree ornaments - hopefully next weekend. Sorry for writing a novel here but I figured at least a few of you would get a laugh at the misery today’s low attention to detail caused me. Hopefully I’ll be posting a picture of a finished spinning globe tomorrow. And I definitely plan on making more of these globes now that I know almost everything NOT to do. The rivets is a really really awesome idea. Thanks Les and Bluerooster again.
  2. Thanks Frosty. What about the silver stuff that comeS with a little bernomatic? Do you think that would hold it or would they also fall off when blackening? I’ve never used it for anything. Chances are I’ll have to do what you guys suggested but since they’re already attached I figured I’d ask. Thanks.
  3. Ok I don’t know why I thought JB Weld would hold up to heat but it doesn’t. Starting heating to black with a torch so put a paste wax finish on and New Zealand or whatever this was supposed to be fell off. I almost went back and started tack welding but I know I’ll blow through somewhere and I’m too far to ruin this now. Considering painting it black and then clear coat or just a clear satin exactly how it is….any ideas/suggestions? Real shame because after getting one spoke blackened with the paste wax I can see how good it would have looked if I could do the whole thing like that. Forgot to put mock up of final assembly. IMG_1088.MOV
  4. Thanks for the detail Ted. I do hit almost all of my stuff with a wire wheel before applying finish but a flapper wheel and a good cleaning I have not tried. This is really awesome. Do you cut the shapes for the roses out yourself or use precut blanks? My first attempt at a rose doing the former didn’t go so well - looks more like a poppy flower (thank you Thomas Powers for that- at least I have a type to call it instead of just a “flower” now). If you cut your own what gauge material are you starting with? My mind is going a little crazy trying to figure out how you did that bird - amazing. More pics if it’s not a pain please!
  5. Ted - these are amazing. I’m always jealous of the finish for the pictures you post - it’s one of my biggest problems with my own work. I already asked what you use once before and you said you apply a satin clear coat. I got a rustoleum satin clear coat but it seemed to literally peel off once it was dried and looked terrible. I’m guessing I maybe didn’t clean the surface well enough before applying. Do you have a specific brand you use/# of coats/process? The finish on this compared to the door knocker is quite different unless it’s just the lighting but both are finishes I’d really like to be able to replicate. Appreciate any tips you can give. Everyone here makes great stuff but yours and Alexandr’s work are always the ones that seem to strike a chord with me the most.
  6. Very often I wish it hadn’t taken me till I was 31 to find this craft I enjoy so much. We got hit with a storm this weekend so I didn’t get any actual forge time in. I’m really enjoying welding though so I made this removable swivel shelf for tool holding at the anvil which I’m convinced you can just never have enough of. I got the idea from Black Bear Forge on YouTube - John’s is much better though. Video is only 12 seconds but it doesn’t seem to want to load. And I got the picture put in this frame so it’s finally finished. Not happy with the fit and finish of the picture but it will have to do. There’s a huge gap on the one side because of the vine but I knew if I started cutting I’d just made it look more sloppy. Looks ok from straight on. Blurred faces since I didn’t ask permission to post their picture lol. IMG_0928.MOV
  7. Rojo Pedro that is really cool looking. Nice job. I finished this picture frame this weekend - I had trouble getting the clips in the back to stay on so I ended up drilling small holes and grinding a “post” into one side of each tab that fit in the hole with some jb weld. Not great but it should hold for something that’s just going to sit on a shelf. Tried to make a rose as well. I think it’s pretty good considering I kind of just cut the shapes out on a whim and the whole thing only took 45 min or so. Doesn’t really look like a rose though - some other strange flower.
  8. Got a good laugh from this JHCC. I second that “welcome” though Are John - I’m still pretty much brand new to smithing as well and IFI has been an amazing resource for me.
  9. Nice deck pieces Billy. I finally got an auto darkening helmet. Made my welds ten times better. I was able to make one of the tools I’ve wanted most for a while now - twisting wrench. Also used the new guillotine tools to make tenons for this picture frame. Was not as easy as I hoped. I’m sure that’s mostly because I need practice but do you guys think having the grinds all the way to the edge of these dies would help? I guess now that I think about it I’ve only seen butcher dies in YouTube videos and never up close so maybe they all look like this… Anyway, and Most importantly- I’m in need of some help! - I made this picture frame over the weekend for a wedding gift. I’m really happy with the way it came out but I realized once it was done that there’s nothing to actually hold a picture in place lol. Big problem. I made these little tabs to try to attach to the back on the top and bottom cross pieces but both jb weld and gorilla glue didn’t hold them…maybe bc of the paste wax finish? I guess I could just double sided tape a picture in but I’d like them to be able to easily change the picture if they want to. Any ideas??? Thanks.
  10. Thanks Ted. No monkey tool. I used my bolster plate on the last one I did but these will be my first “proper” tenons with a guillotine tool. The last one I did free hand at the anvil and it was awful.
  11. What’s up guys. Hope everyone’s enjoying the weekend so far. I have a question about tenons for what I’m working on right now. Going to be a picture frame. It was supposed to be upset square corners - the type the has the nice sharp outside edge with the smooth radiused inside. I basically ended up with the opposite lol. I didn’t have the right stock to try to technique that Peter Ross does - taking a thicker piece of stock and drawing down towards each end starting from where you want the corner to be. I thought I could upset the bar where I want the corner and try to work the upset towards the side where the outside corner would be and then bend - maybe a better smith than me could pull that off. But it’s ok they still look better than if I had just bent some square bar (I think) at least that’s what I’m telling myself after almost two hours of work. Anyway back to the tenons - how much of a bite do I need to take to to have enough to join them at the corners? This already ended up being smaller than planned so I don’t want to take any more that I absolutely have to. It’s 1/2” square bar. Thanks!
  12. Good to know JHCC - I’m going for a semi-meridian then. Thanks.
  13. Thanks Nodebt. I was already planning to make a base and then have that half circle arm piece that connects at each pole like most globes have. I’ve got a few ideas along the lines of what you suggested. Thanks Frosty.
  14. Wow that’s not far at all from me thanks Frazer!
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