Steve Sells

Remember Frosty that not everyone that reads this forum is reading it in English. Translations can go weird when incorrect terms are used

Are you sure its 5160? Some suppliers like Admiral steel didnt always send what was ordered. They got me once when I ordered L6 and they sent something else, a low alloy called 8670m How are you hardening it? you didnt say

except in testing, many 5 min epoxy's fail after only a few years

You may want to correct your usage of the term tempering to hardening, They are not the same thing, and its confusing to use a technical term incorrectly in a technical format

I suggest you read through the knife making classes, this has already been covered there

this isnt made for knives, its made for etching PC Boards, so it saying ready to use is based on its original intended use, not our intended use, cut back on the strength and Yes it is going to be a little rough, thats a result of etching. I use my fingers to rub clean with baking soda water after etching not steel wool

we dont hit hard to set a forge weld, so NO, not that

I dont know about that Frosty, BUT JPH sent me my first meteorite for me to weld up, then assigned me his MAD 6 mix, M2, A2 and D2 for a billet, that was fun... He taught my teacher, so when Bill passed on, I think JIm substituted me for abuse, errr training

can I forge weld them? yes I can, would I want to? no, its a terrible mix for a knife If you want to try study up on Ausforging. OR just do it all at once, start to finish never going below the hardening temp EVER. until ready to harden

note that besides the crack you can see, dunking it in water caused many more cracks you cant see

From Clay Spencer Thanks for all your prayers, condolences and kind words about Jackie’s passing. I appreciate you all. There will be a Memorial Celebration of her Life on Saturday October 15, 1:00 pm at Eddy Missionary Baptist Church, 2417 Eddy Church Road, Arab, AL, 35016

I figured the 80C was a typo

quenching after tempering has no effect, what do they think it will do? to humor them you can always do it their way and charge them more for the extra wasted time

Crucibles? or maybe just a large samish ?

Not sure where to get these things in Hawaii, you ARE in Haw right? you didnt say so I took a guess

according to the logs, you had posted this in general smithing, it was moved to finishes

Mr Magoo

Never heard of using coal, maybe because its not very porous. Part of making activated charcoal usable is the high surface area needed for making the chemical exchange

hard to make activated CHARCOAL when you arent using charcoal

I have to work so no chance of me getting there

dont worry guys I am watching this one...

Aluminum cans are an extrusion alloy not really for casting, also when melted you will lose most of it to dross

Be aware there are legal regulations as to spacing between rails, this is for preventing children getting trapped...

odd that no one started a thread for THIS years event

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0193 Diagonal Peen Hammer by James Joyce Talking about a blacksmith's hammer is about like talking of his dog, truck or wife. So, no matter what that style of hammer is called, Quarter peen, slash peen, Twisted face, Diagonal peen, Drawing hammer, or another name, let us be clear here, I am talking about MY hammer. Take what you like and leave the rest. This is the view I see when I go to a blacksmith's demonstration when he is using a standard cross peen hammer to fuller. He pulls his off hand in toward the center of his body, aligns the working hammer hand and goes at it. This is the view from the eye of the blacksmith doing the fullering. As you can see, as the standard cross peen strikes the work the blacksmith is essentially blind. His handle covers the view of where exactly the peen is striking. Several years ago a blacksmith named, I think, Jeffery Foote (?) thought this an intolerable intrusion on his otherwise fine workmanship. Jeffery told me he took a Swedish cross peen, heated it up, twisted the peen 45 degrees. He opened the world of blacksmithing to a new dimension of accuracy. And introduced the diagonal cross peen hammer to artist blacksmithing. When a right handed smith uses a left diagonal pein hammer, smith�s view of his fullering strike location is impeded with the diagonal cross peen hammer. When the right handed smith used a right diagonal pein, the smith�s view of his fullering strike location is no longer impeded with the right diagonal cross peen hammer. When the left handed smith used a left diagonal pein, the smith's view of his fullering strike location is no longer impeded with the left diagonal cross peen hammer. But when the left handed model of the diagonal cross peen is used by a right handed smith, it becomes a diagonal straight peen, again allowing an unimpeded view of work (his arm is now to the side) and producing greater accuracy and smoother work. This shows the body position of the smith fullering at the horn when using the diagonal cross peen. He has relaxed posture, with the natural hammer arm position at his side. Notice that from this position he can pin the off hand to his left side for easy control of the work piece. This shows the same smith forcing his arms into alignment in front of his body to fuller over the horn with a standard cross peen hammer. I hope this helps explain why many of us blacksmiths (like Rob Gunther and Bill Epps, to name just 2 you probably know) have switched over to diagonal peen hammers for better control of our work. A full set of smithing hammers should include a right and left as above, a cross peen, a straight peen and a round face spreading hammer, all of the peens should have at least a 1/2 inch rounded face so as not to make sharp dings in the material worked.