jimbob

just picked it up thanks a bunch it will make some fine hammers and hardy tools

The post office just called me to come get a package the woman stated "Its just too heavy for me to bring out"

how much you asking should be able to get 5 or 6 1 foot bars in USPS pre-paid box so are you say 50 cents a foot plus shipping or what

I have a grate wall of fire ...I took it out and went back to the two tier fire grate I bought at Lowes a few years back the main fire is on the bottom grate a couple of logs on the upper grate the upper fire goes up the flue the bottom fire has a fire back to radiate heat into the room (I replaced the tin fire back with 3/16 plate) I can put heat out to the end of the wall 18 feet away. if you can't find one you can fab a fire back from plate (3/8-1/2 plate) you can find fire backs on the web but plate will work just as well ...they used these in colonial times to heat the house... another thing is use smaller wood in your fire it will burn fast and hotter (2"x2" to 2"x4" on up to 4"x4")put the larger wood to the back smaller wood in the middle and a front log of med. size and start your fire in the middle burn from the top of pile down

If you read Mark Aspery books thats about all he uses ...

...hammering too long I believe is a problem for a lot of folkes. I believe this is due to advice from old hands stating "You gotta do it in one heat" ...

I think on the larger stock you should use a hot cut

is someone out there cutting the larger ones out?..I'ed like to make some of the bigger ones

If you get a new one look for one of the newer type with a screw up the handle they seem to work better ...cheap blades don't last long the bi-metal seem to last the longest for me

try a brass brush while its at a blue heat then paste wax/linseed oil mix and burnish with a soft cloth. I took and old chipping hammer and rounded the edges to a little over 1/8" round works really good to texture the cross. another note on your hack saw tighten the blade as tight as you can get it and then some...it will cut a lot better

just cut some blanks on your table saw 3/4 to 7/8 thick and 1 1/4-1 3/8 wide about a foot long ...thats what Brian does

See if this helps on how to cut it...click the attachment twice for a larger view

have you tried the newer wire wheels with the plastic skirt around the outside ?

after I wore out my HF I bought two sears 4 1/2 in angle gringers one has a flap sanding pad on it the other a thick grinding disk. I keep a skill with a wire brush on it this combo works really well for me

Randy check out Sidney Lee welding supply in Macon you can get coal for $15.00 a bag they have had some Tom tongs and other Misc. smithing tools

I believe your right thanks for clearing that up

Glenn does have a good point there...maybe you could call it something else just to be on the safe side....Water Wand maybe

...put a board on the table drill a hole the size of your sanding drum the raise the table so the bottom of the drum is in the hole. you can tack strips to the board as a guide. the hole lets the drum sand all the way ...no small edge at the bottom. also look into using mounted stones of different sizes. I use 1 5/8 for screwdriver tips/bits I use a 4" to conture bolt handles after weding them on

The X is also called the the southern cross its on the flag of Scotland it was also on the battle flag of the south in the civil war ...all for the same reason People also made their mark with and X ...swearing before God that they would do as agreed to.

Europeans in the 16th century started using X in place of Christ's name as shorthand for writing Christ. the Christian monks and scolars were knowledgeable of the the greek letter X,-Chi or khi- whicj is the first letter in the Greek word "Christos" or "Kristos" (Greek:CristoV) The Greek and Hebrew word "Christos" comes out "Messiah" and mean the same thing: "The anointed One." for many years the X was understood by Christian clergy and as time passed,many Christians, educated and not, were not aware of the meaning. Over time the meaning became lost and was later perceived as a sign of disrespect.

You might look t blueprints 1001 and 1002 Hofi hammer technique ...or order his DVD from the IFORGE IRON store

Aren't you suppost to mumble something on the order of "Double Double Boil and and Bubble" when you harden it!

Have you seen the add in the tailgating section posted by Wayne Coe ...he is doing a workshop building these same grinders for just about what it would cost to build if you by all the parts from USKnifemakers. with modifications that he has added with a 4 step pully system for speed control

must have taken some kind of direct hit. as of the dozen or so custom Mausers I've made that bridge is really soft I contour them with a file...did the crack just now show up or was it after shooting the rifle. thats right at the third locking lug ...what do the other locking lug look like any set back ?

here is a link to Flordia Artist Blacksmith Association see page 7 for hammer info http://www.blacksmithing.org/CB-Archive/2001/2001-02-cb.pdf hope this helps