jimbob
-
Posts
1,021 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Articles
Gallery
Downloads
Events
Everything posted by jimbob
-
that's where mine is sprung; the jaws are 1/4 inch out of mesh when closed... the problem as I see it is the back part of the pivot is thicker than the front. when you put it in the forge and get it hot everything lines up. then as it cools the front springs open wider. I think the whole bottom pivot area of the front jaw needs to be the same thickness at the joint.
-
I tried doing that hot never did get it correct after it cooled ...
-
when I moved to Georgia in '91 the guys I worked with addressed everyone by two names I went by Jim my middle Initial is R for Roger. they figured it was Robert and started calling me JimBob it stuck
-
its hard to come off the hip when you can go to the shop and make it...thats what were about as blacksmiths
-
Brownells sells broken tap extractors http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=15612/Product/BROKEN_TAP_EXTRACTOR
-
the first forge I made I used a pipe cap like that...well it rusted together in short order it was a real pain to get off .
-
read here http://www.dot.state.il.us/materials/rebarguide.pdf and here http://owensupply.com/pdf/CHART-metrification.pdf you need to find the end to see the marking
-
I use Lucas oil (pure oil) or slick 50 (synthetic)...try it your like it! Polytetrafluoroethylene PTFE it reduces friction by 13.5%
-
I dreamed of doing that...maybe one day it will come true!
-
another thing you might find handy is a screw checker both metric and inch ...comes in handy if your not sure of the size or if its a fine thread or coarse http://www.generaltools.com/Products/Quick-Check-Screw-Gage__714.aspx http://handtoolsmadeinusa.hotfridayshopping.com/metric-screw-checker-8mm-to-14mm-made-in-usa/ also a thread pitch gage
-
one of the first tools I bought when I got out of the army was a tap and die set (cheap one) I still have some that are un used I have added to my collection but just adding the one I use. if I were starting out now I'ed just buy the one when I needed to tap a hole I think I'ed get the drill bit and tap as a set along with a die and die stock and I'e look for the hex die and die stock
-
the blower I put this motor on has six blades 1 1/4 wide and about 1 3/4 long the nozzel is about 2' outside dia. the presure feels close to my hand crank so I'm guessing it should be about right with and air gate
-
the 160 came from a note Grant posted a while back...one of the blowers at blacksmith depot list 164 cfm another list 112 and still another list 400 cfm; centuar forge pb 50 is 500 cfm. 12 violt dayton is 176 cfm Curly where do you buy a CFM tape measure sounds right handy
-
I found a 1725 rpm motor that would fit one of my motorless blowers. I'm going to use and air gate to regulate the airflow. I've read here that 160 CFM is about right...How do you measure that?
-
what size billet do you start with for that hammer
-
I hadn't thought about racing stripes, but I did put engine turning on one of my cross pein's
-
I think I'd make a diagonal pein as to me there more useful in drawing out
-
sounds like a tack hammer
-
i like it ...you can almost smell it!
-
look here for a bottom brick http://shop.nctoolco.com/category.sc?categoryId=280
-
Merry Christmas to every one have a Happy New Year !I'm expecting a lot of coal tonight ...
-
Happy New Year to you
-
E-Bay and blacksmithing tools etc
jimbob replied to firebug's topic in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
I've seen the same thing I've also had them send me a second chance offer at my last bid. it may not be the one who listed the item but maybe one of his associates -
after you sand it take bone and rub it all over then apply your finish
-
I thing as long as your building this tank if your going to make it up right and secure to the floor so as not to tip over I'd add a drain plug or faucet to get to old oil out.