jimbob

here's and article about the Peter Ross way to make them (nails) http://www.blacksmithing.org/Articles/Hot%20Iron%20News/Nail%20Making@Peter%20Ross%20method.pdf might help on the off center problem

Try taking a small 3 square file and putting a radius on the top side of the header hole...I believe if its to sharp it tends to grab the nail

I saw one the other day forged into a crescent moon with a nose forged in ...Man in the Moon

look for the book "101 Things you can build from Horseshoes" by W.F. Dohrmann 1985 no ISBN so must be self published

I made one for a "frog eye look" I used my dremel tool with a small ball cutter to open up the cavity after spoting it with a small drill bit then grind away what does not look right ...made it out of 4140 1/2 in round with the thumb index like Mark Aspery shows to make

I printed Brents article on making this hammer with Atlantic 33 ...he says after you finsh forging to anneal it in vermiculite or ashes then grind to the final profile. he says Atlsntic 33 is a water quench alloy that requires no tempering. he goes on to say in a coal fire use a pr of flat jawed tongs to turn the hammer from pein to face until both ends have been heated to a bright red or low yellow color. the area surrounding the eye should show very little color, perferably none. when the pein and face have reached the desired temperature, quench the entire hammer in water. up and down and sweral around...I copied the article from his web site but when I went back it was not posted any longer... hope this helps

did you make the other tools to go along with it ...they make making the stylized leaf easy...also the hammer that you use helps a bunch

click on the link at the top

my guess is you adjust before you start it then set the set screw. I'm like Grant what size is the orfice?...

if your talking about the advance arm I have one ...I throught it might work on my buffalo but it won't

looks like a weld at the top to keep it from moving ...I'ed like to see a blue print also

can't see from the pictures how the wings are adjusted

when I say "mine has the teeth on the bottom" I'm talking about the top,round dial that when turned moves the spindle down. all the ones I've seen pictures of have the teeth pointing up. also the ones pictured are not buffalo forge...when I get a chance I'll post a picture

my doctor keep track got a shot last year..

I looked at that ...mine has the teeth on the bottom

anyone out there have a bufalo forge 151 post drill ...I have one minus the advance arm. I was going to forge on but I am not sure what it should look like

have you used it yet ...looks like it would be good for knife making.

try a small kitchen sink or one of bathroom sinks made of cast iron or one out of and old camper...line it with fire clay from the hardware store...there was a TV show from the Univ of Georgia the guy doing the show used a wheel barrow for his forge point is just about anything can be made to work...just got to get out of the box!

sounds like your hooked already

poke a hole in the mass that is on the fire with the blower on; when you get a flame the smoke should die down. might take a day or so to get the smell in your blood...by that time your be hooked like the rest of us! won't be a problem then!

you flatten that out a bit and you have a dandy hammer eye drift...most of the work is already done! cut the wrench off the end and you have a handle to hold the drift.

a prick punch is for layout ...where to put your center punch mark. a center punch mark is real hard to see in hot steel I can't imagine trying to find a prick punch mark I think I'ed do as Charlotte suggested and use a large diamond center punch after you locate where you want your hole; also turn your stock in the fire so it gets and even heat

they make a good ADZ

thats the same as the pit and rack that I showed above...somebody made a commercial model of the classic southern pit

I'll to get on to my sons for some grandkids...I do like the idea about the flats!