jimbob

that looks to be about 6"x 6" or so for the base then a cube of hardwood to fit

Happy Thanksgiving to everybody her and especially to Frosty have missed you here!...

you could use a brick layers chisel ...the this one about 1 1/4 wide and 1/4 thick about 12 inches long they cost about $7 have to dress the working end .

one of the guys in my guild says he sticks a glass marble in the center and puts it back in the forge till it melts...haven't tried it yet but it sounds neat

Its sure messing with my forge!

I think when I bought out here 20 years ago the builder buried yard trash there

This year we've made up for the last 10 or so with no rain ...my yard is like walking on a wet sponge...had a big sink hole open about a foot from my anvil ...filled it up with rock and bricks. had more rain (2 weeks and 8 inches) now another sinkhole in front of my anvil...more bricks and rock. I think it time to move the anvil

thats a good video ...sure wish I gould get my wife to strike for me.

I have regular percription safety glasses with clip on shade 3 . they flip up when you don't need them

seems the tilt of the earth has changed a bit ...see link Axis Tilt of the Earth

seems its says somewhere on the can of Roach-Prufe that the bugs have a Negative charge an the boric acid is positive...it kills them by clogging up their air vents.

like you seeing Brian and Mark work I like Marks style of punches; but I need to wear a glove or risk getting burned; while with the style that Brian uses I don't need the glove. I've been toying with the Ideal of making slot punch the way Mark showed us but putting the end on it like Brian showed ...call it the AB punch!

buy Mark Asperys books you want be disappointed

sounds like you just need to take a little more time lining up the hole when starting to punch the slot...making sure it is correct to start with, if its off you can correct it . also if you look at a hammer eye it has and hour glass profile so when you put the wedges in the wood will move to the swell to keep the head from flying off. as for the oversize hole its easier to use a narrow slot punch than a large round punch . you could always drill a large hole . I've also heard of a couple of small holes drilled at each end of the slot to help keep the slot lined up

I found my book its called The Spruce Forge Manual of Locksmithing , A Blacksmith guide to simple lock mechanism by bill Morrison and Denis Frechette isbn 0-615-11822-4. I ordered my copy from Nation Builder Books P O box 253 Leesberg Va. 20178 800 450 5808 web site www.NBBoks.com email is akw@nbbooks.com the book shows a number of locks and how to make them with patterns and special tooling

Elmer Roush makes some hhere is a link to his site Home there are one or two books out on old locks also

sounds like it need a REAL good cleaning...get a can of PB blaster and hose it down and let it set a day or so and try it ...

you make a good point ...if I were to buy one again I think thats what I'ed do

it looks like my 1220 with a 3 jaw chuck one box of lathe bits. did not see any gears to change the speed it is just the basic mechine...looks like who ever is selling it has left out most of the the gears and tools that came with it...I think I'ed contact them to see if they know where the rest of it is.no belts either

what tooling comes with it, which one is it ..I have a 12/20 with all the tooling that Smithy sells and have about 5x that invested

When Mark pointed that out the light blub went on thats why I made one ...mine weights about 30 pounds or so added to my 140 lb brooks it works for me

you lucky devil you...

I made the block as Mark describes in his book mine has two holes 1 1/4 for my Brooks and 1 inch for my other anvil (London pattern) I would think if your using a euro style anvil with the hardy up front you wouldn't need one

what did you use to make them out of? spring steel or sucker rod?

keep in mind Bed rail is harden steel an works really well for a cutoff tool provides you have some way to cut it