Mark Wargo New2bs

One source of new spring steel would be as drops from a spring shop.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are saying, but are you heat treating it before you shape the end? The following video will give you an idea what Brian is talking about. The heat treating starts at about 6:39. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uL6RtsM8Sk

Lyle, thanks for posting the pictures! They tell a great story. Brian says a big hammer will teach you how to throw a hammer, that 12 pound sledge will teach you what you are doing wrong quick lol. I had a great time with Brian. Karen's food and hospitality were top notch. It was a pleasure seeing you again and watching you strike. That really helped me understand what to do. After I get more practice with the two-sided taper I'll be ready for more!

Are you a member of the Mississippi Forge Council? Membership is $25 and they sell coal to their membership. They have it shipped to Jackson. Best of luck. Mark

I like that much. Mark

Finally got a bit of time at the forge and had a go at a fork. Original stock was 1/4 by 3/4 flat bar. Mark

That is fantastic.

Sounds like you are not holding the tongs/billet parallel to the anvil face. Perhaps you are holding the tongs at an angle above the angle. Mark

That is beautiful work. Thanks for sharing. Mark

Brian, thanks for posting the step by step. That is great instruction. Mark

That's looking great. After the 10th one, it will forge itself! Keep it up. Mark

Once you start forging that jack hammer bit, it's going to fit quite snugly in the hardie hole. You will be forging square, so if you hit it on the corners first, it's going to upset larger than 1 inch, then just taper until it fits the hardie. I do endorse the Brian Brazeal type rounded hardie. You have to treat your tools like they deserve to be treated. The rounded shape allows you to easily start with the heated steal on the far side of the semi-circle and to roll the material toward you as you cut, then you can push it away from you with your hammer head and cut as you roll back toward you. This allows you to avoid overheating any one section of your hot cut. It also provides for a more efficient cut, because the rounded shape of the blade reduces surface area contact. No need to bulldoze your way through the material. Mark

I talked with Clay Spencer over at a Mississippi Forge Council event in July and he said that a 4:1 anvil to hammer ratio was fine. Mark