jimbob

thanks for reposting that I couldn't find the last one...so when you make that long face fuller is it forged the same as the round face excep using a swedge block

Brian after re-reading this thread a couple times I believe your using your fullering hammer the way most of us use a straight pein hammer but the pein end is/has a lot larger radius instead of 1/2 its up to and inch or better..is that correct?

John I think we both saying the same thing ... I was going to make some fullers but not sure how to temper the striking end ...

the other to your required shape, and is used as a hand hammer,of a sledge hammer or some other means of imparting extra weight to the blow,

I'm talking about his fullering hammers like the ones he uses in class to make the groove around each face of the hammer he has several different sizes and they are struck with a hammer ...

what about the striking end of the fullering hammer...seems to me it should be softer so as not to chip when hit with another hammer

how do you temper the the fullering hammers

a real find I think I'ed put it on display on the wall with that eagle its worth way more than what you paid for it

instead of a square for the joint make a parallelogram from 3/8 x 1 stock about 1 inch long drill your hole in the center and the bit on one side and the handle on the other

make circular holder that looks like an electric stove burner with a tail flaten the tail or stub and coil it around one of your uprights for your fire set ...with 4 or more coils on the tab it will move up or down and jam on the leg making a handy shelf to put a coffie pot on ot a fry pan.

maybe this link will help http://www.crsi.org/rebar/id.cfm or this one http://www.sizes.com/materls/rebar.htm a google search will turn up all sorts of information about rebar

Glad you like it ...just don't leave the bag out in the sun as it will rip open...made that mistake.

I think ebay would be cheaper than that Home Hardware store

If your in the Atlanta area check out Sidney Lee welding supply http://www.sidneylee.com/ they carry Kimmels Premium Bituminous Blacksmith coal from Wiconisco Pa the price is $15.00 a 50lb bag

you must have really large hands

I was a member for about 30 years or so; I down sized last year when I retired...your right about Muzzleblast It at times had a lot of good information. its too bad that the powers that be can't see the gold mine they have and publish the articles from the past muzzleblast ... as a side note I found a book seller on the net who had all five copies for $105.00 each ($525.00 total) I know thats ten times what I paid back when I bought them...

vol 1 is all about locks and the tools and jigs to make them all sorts of neat cuters Vol 11 two Virginia rifles as documents and traditions shop tools, processes and tech The golden mean proportion in Baroque and Rococo Firearms Design A Patch box release mechanism A Barrel Crowning tool Making and using a Scratch-Stock for forearm molding Vol 111 Handwork and Artifice Summarized essay seven, parts five and six "the gunmaker and the Gunstocker" Sprengel Berlin 1771 translated by Maria von Nicolai and John Bivins (German on the left and English on the right) Vol 1V handwerk und kunsie in Tabellen the Gunfactory A Study of Lock timing A Wheellock Mainspring Vise Vol V rifle making workmanship ...a rifle by John Sheetz Charcoal Bluing of rifle Barrels Cock Forging ..A study in Technology Ramrod and walking stick tool Vol 1 is packed with informationon making locks more than any other book I've seen . I bought my books from the NMLRA back in the '90's I have seen them from time to time on EBAY ...you might try one of the used book sellers to fine a copy

I have all five volume's it Vol 1 that covers locks not 2

I think its just the picture as the back jaw looks to be in line with the front of the mounting plate . Brian can you post a picture showing the off set of the table to the vise jaws

thanks for the link ...when I blew it up the date on the last page looks to January 1906. the front shows Est. 1866. it does have a lot old tools...the vise stands like some that were posted here. at this point I don't think we're ever know when or why this pictular hammer style came about.

I've read that they developed during construction of the Eiffel Tower to set rivets that were hard to get at!

Thanks Billd that solved my problem also ...

HELP. I cannot get the video to work ...

Look at the female nut it has a knuckle on it that fits in a grove/slot in the rear leg of the vise; it keeps the nut from turning. if it is not in the proper slot it will do as you say