jimbob

who do you get to keep it turning so you don't burn whatever your cooking?

there are a few exercises you can do that will help with the pain...put your hands together as if you were praying , bring them to your chest and point your fingers down and push each hand against the other . another is to fold your hand down and use the other to push against itand hold . do both hands this way . try it before you start to work if yoou start to feel pain do it somemore also when your done

"thin flexible plastic would be more durable" does any of your binders(notebooks) have the thin plastic page keepers in the front? they'ed be about right for that template even a copper sheet would work as it would bend to fit the contour of your pot.. I like it I'll have to make one up

why not just lay a large hex nut on it and use three of the corners ...every other corner is 120* apart!

sound like you need to be in front of the computer anyway ...how many staples? sounds like you might have a heck of a head ache.

look in used book stores for 1930-1940 copies of Popular Science and Popular Mechanics also popular science publishing company put out each year "Home Workshop Encyclopedia ...they are like a whole year of articles they have a bunch of puzzles that you can make

its getting close to the appointed time hope everyone goes out and rings their anvil!

glad to be a part of this...1:30 it is

heck Charlotte, you take a dozen chickens split in half put hot sauce on them then sprinkle some Tony Chachere's and a touch of Curry powder put them on the grill and wire it shut so they don fall out put on the fire about 30 minutes your into some good eating!

let me get a pig

here's one I made (flat grill and pit)...made from 1/2 inch black pipe(make two) one for each side ;put pig on one put the grill down and wire together) only has handle on one end and the middle to pivot right or left then use a short stick of re-bar to hold the bottom up ...one person can turn the whol pig with no problem put a piece of cardboard on top to hold the heat in and its Miller time!

here's a link to the to the Post and Courier Artist in iron dies - The Post and Courier

here's what you want Chemical Composition Min.% Max.% Carbon 0.38 0.43 Silicon 0.15 0.04 Manganese 0.75 1.00 Chromium 0.80 1.10 Molybdenum 0.15 0.25 Phosphorous 0 0.04 Sulphur 0 0.015 this works really well for hammers...we call it 4140 here in the states; it could go by any of the below Germany DIN 17212 W.Nr 1.7223 Type 41CrMo4 DIN 17200-1654 W.Nr 1.7225 Type 42CrMo4 Japan JIS G 3441 SCM 440 TK USA AISI 4140 ASTM A519-96 4140 SAE 4140 UNS G 41400

lets keep this simple...if you are just learning to make a hammer head use what ever you have, so as not to waste good money until you learn what your doing, that way if it gets messed up you will not have laost much. did you make a drift and hammer eye punch yet?

to purchase the plans Hugh McDonald 150 Williams Rd. Gooseberry Hill 6076 Western Australia

I have one of each the chop saw just died this year (I had it for about 10 years) the ban saw is still going strong ( you need to get good blades) there are pictures on this site for a larger table for the ban saw also a load of information on the web to beef up this saw I believe this is the same saw sold by tractor supply, Northern , and all the others. I think they just change the paint job to suit the customer. If you plan on moving it around a lot make a new stand .

going to have to give it a try ...bet that would be good to clean your rifle bore with also

PB Blaster

If its just a large chunk of steel, as you say, just weld thick walled tubing to one end . you can block around it to beef it up

might direct you to the Florida Blacksmith Site Florida Artist Blacksmith Association

might add if your new to doing hot rasping wear a pr of gloves ...

your have to clamp what ever your working on in the vise and use one hand on each end of the rasp (don't forget the handle) it removes metal real fast ...if your working on a taper keep turing it in the vise

why not drill the ball . then for the spikes cut a ring around the base of the of the pin/spike put it in the hole and use a punch to close the hole around the the ring stakeing the pin/spike to the ball

why not just use the drill size for the fine thread for the course thread

why not just use the drill size for the fine thread for the course thread instead of the larger bit