Stash

That is a little higher than I would pay, but it seems to be par for the course these days. That's a good'un. Also depends on location. Steve

I've made paint scrapers from old files- just a 45 degree bevel that would make short work of the paint, as well as heavy rust. Quieter and less dusty than a grinder. You'll need the grinder with a disk or wire wheel to finish up. Steve

That happens when your steel is only Luke warm.

Congrats, Das. Glad to here everyone is well and happy and healthy. It has already been said in previous posts, but I'll say it again. Your life will no longer be the same, but in a good way. Take care of your self, and love your 2 ladies with everything you got. Blessings Steve

Can't help you with info, just saying that's a good looking vise. You are now on the road to Damascus with St. Paul. Steve

If the movable jaw is frozen, it is just at the pivot point. pop it apart clean it up and that's that. If the screw is frozen that's another issue. You can do the electrolisis thing, or repeated applications of penetrating fluid. Good diy fluid is atf and acetone. Plenty of threads here on the whole process- get you some reading done. Once you can see the screw, look at the wear, or lack there of. They are square threads, so wear will be obvious. It is a pretty simple machine, the screw is key. Steve

Wow, thanks for the flash back, Thomas. I had one of those dinos too, probably now in the same place as yours- migration over the years back to their origin. I remember everyone wanted Belgian waffles but I just wanted a hot dog. Steve

Das- I have one of those turbines on top of my stack. You'll wonder how you lived without one all these years. Steve

Dogwood is a very hard and heavy wood- more so than oak and my go- to fave. Beech is good, Persimmon is awesome if you can find it. Fruitwood- apple pear etc is pretty hard and heavy. Just use whatever you can lay your hands on. They break, make a new one. Like others have said make it so you impact with the end grain. Stevw

Yeah, I would call that a screaming deal. Good on ya! Steve

Well that is what the entire 2 pages of this thread is about. start at page 1 and read. Question has been answered. Steve

Isn't Emerson or Monserrat (sp?) just north of you in Beverly? They might offer evening or non- credit classes. Steve

A little cabin fever kicking in? Glad to hear you're coming around. Keep getting well. Steve

So I took a little drive today. Last night a buddy texted me a photo of a classified ad in a local farming journal with a man listing anvils for sale, and a phone number. I called, he kinda described what he had, with no idea on how to send photos. I took a chance and drove to S. Joisey and did pretty well. The big one seems to be a Soderfors- flats on the feet and a stamp with 224 lbs,and a very faint 'swede' above the weight. The medium one is a 154# (1 1 14) PW with a little good honest sway, and good edges and ring. Just a few weld boogers that popped off with a chisel. The last one is what I think is a Trenton Acme (Please correct me if I'm wrong). Weighs ~ 100 ( no bathroom scale available, no weight numbers visible). Still trying to interpret the SN on the front foot. Left a few others behind for the collectors who showed up as I was tying everything down. Got them unloaded, cleaned up, and mounted the big one on a stand. Yow, she rings like a bell. So do the other 2, also. Steve Mod Note 478 pounds of anvils

I made my rake out of rebar years ago as a beginner project, and I still use it. Tongs probably not so much- lotsa work to get the ridges down so they don't shred your hands. Lots to read in the tong section, so read it. They aren't a beginner project. As far as the wrenches, medium carbon steel should work for drifts and things. Just be sure not to work plated steel (chrome)- it'll kill you. If it rusts you can trust. Steve

I gotta say- that's a nice run of colors you have there! Steve

Sounds like a fair price to me. Steve

Curved hot cut? Steve

I've also seen it called a riviters or a boilermaker's hammer. Steve

In 1885 they started to make the top plate from 1 piece of hc steel. If you detect a seam in the top it's pre 1885. Steve

Maybe pre slit for the 2nd pass thru so the slit ends up in the first one. Drift it thru at the angle required. Maybe a custom bolster is required here. then fish the other bar thru the slit. Hope that made sense. Steve

Clean the accumulated crud out of the gear box - probably solidified grease and stuff. Pull the fan cover- might have mud daubers, and other varmints. Don't force it. Take it slow and gentle and you should be fine. Never heard of Mohawk, so I can't help there. Steve

Nice repair on the gear. Seems like a bunch of fiddly work but it's worth it when you're done. Steve

Good looking anvil, clean face and horn, edge chewed up a bit but not a deal breaker. I have a #179 and it's a solid worker. If the rebound plays out It'll do you well. Kinda spendy for me- I paid $300 for mine. Worth it to see if you could get a better price, but don't wait too long. Good luck. Steve

Welcome aboard Shawn, and welcome to the addiction. Lots of info on this site, as they say here, fix you a sandwich and cold drink and spend some time reading. I'm kinda mid- east PA, just south of Allentown. If you're in the area give me a yell. The PABA group is a good gang of guys, hope to see you at some meetings. Steve