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Found 83 results

  1. Hi all, Ron here. back when i was in college i had a friend who had a small forge and shed where he did all of his smithing and tooling needs, after classes I would go there and he started to teach me the basics of being a smith be it weapon or otherwise. His brother was a farrier and worked on horseshoes. it has been a long time and i am trying to establish myself as a smith and i would like to learn and polish myself as it has been a long time at least 10 years. so i am looking for some local smiths who i may spend a little time around. I am looking for a smith or smiths that i may watch and speak with in or around Long Island NY. as I dont yet have all of the finances to build my forge. as i know nothing is free we may discuss payment and other such things either in person or over the phone. I do have some experience but it is very rusty and has been over 10 yrs since i touched a forge. Ron Crowe
  2. Hi all, New to the forums and to smithing. I see a lot of good info here, so I wanted to ask the question. To build or to buy? I've seen a lot of forges online priced $350 and up, that's a big pill for a newbie like me, so I was wondering if it'd be cheaper/smarter to build. I need everything for anvils to hammers and would like to be as economical as possible. So i did some googling, found this site, bummed around Amazon and eBay, and I noticed that buying the materials plus shipping as about the same if not more than buying a pre-made forge. Now, all I looked for was sheet metal, Fire brick (3k degree), KaoWool, and rigidizer. No itc-100, and I figure I can make some Sodium Silicate Glue. The big questions I have are: Can the Perlite-n-Playsand DIY bricks hold up to the heat as well as the Factory made? Is there a DIY KaoWool equivalent? Is the ITC necessary on the forge walls/Ceiling? I have a supply/warehouse within 15 miles of home so sheet metal and Stock shouldn't be an issue. I have drafted a forge design from some pics I have seen around, I also have several tanks around the house (Propane, air tanks, Grills) that I could chop up If my design isn't feasible, seeing as I built it around what I found on eBay for what looked like cheaper than average prices.The bricks I found are keyed so one would need cut in half to square the ends for the forge floor. The inner cavity of my design seems to come out to: 9.5"W x 3"H x 17"L Pics ahoy and thanks for the help in advance! Cut Key Brick Layout.bmp
  3. Hello I'm very new to this website so hopefully I've done this right, I was wondering if anyone knows where to purchase spring steel bars in NSW (not just the handy leaf or coil springs I'm used to). Someone told me that, phil Johnston from forgemasters had bought it regularly for jobs. But I've tried to find places to buy it, and the best I've come up with is Spring steel flat bars from South Australia. If anyone could point me in the right direction or if you know where forgemasters got theirs I'd really appreciate it. -thanks, Kaylem
  4. Hi there, just got my Fire bricks and refractory cement, going to build my propane fueled forge it shall be a small enough one, big enough for knives and axe heads perhaps but mainly knives for now, I have no fear handling a torch or anything that is required to be done as a black smith/ knife smith, but I am scared of CO poisoning, so my main question is how can I make my forge as safe as possible? I will be using it outside in the open but should I still wear a mask and should I leave the back open? just a few bits like that I would love to have answered! thanks in advance guys. David. edit: also I have a carbon monoxide alarm.
  5. Howdy all, I need some help with this anvil. I bought it today and did EXTENSIVE online research, and the only references I could find to it were on this forum (which were vague). I'm looking for any history/insight that any of you might have into the how old this anvil is, who made it, and any other bits of knowledge you might have. On the anvil itself, the words (barely readable) are as follows Lewis Warranted Best Tiedin (Is this a last name? Am I misreading this? NO results on google for tiedin. Doesn't even sound like a legit word to me) Thanks
  6. Hey guys......new to this site and wanted to share pictures of an anvil my grandfather has had for around 20-30 years or so. He got it from US Steel plant, where he worked, and brought it home. They were tearing down some buildings and were going to throw it away and he had it loaded on his truck to bring home. We mounted it on a steel work table so it could be swiveled and rotated. Never have had a reason to use it, but it is one of the biggest and coolest anvils we have ever seen. Each "leg" of the anvil is a different size. They are all the "half-moon" shape.It is also extremely heavy, so no worries of anyone stealing it!! haha. I'm hoping someone here can help us identify it and tell us more about it.
  7. Jim Poulmas

    Bench hammer

    Just finishing up this bench hammer. It’s about three quarters of a pound. Good addition to the bench for layout and small rivets.
  8. I’ve had this vice for about 2 years now and I have no clue what brand it is. Was going to see if anyone had some sort of idea. It came out of a railroad rounding house in Idaho. Thanks in advance!
  9. I got this little peterwright anvil can anyone estimate the age? All I know it’s before 1908 from the stamping. But the horn makes me believe it can be before 1900’s. But I don’t know
  10. Got this little soderfors anvil and would like to know more about it. Is it casted or forged? And an estimated date range. There is a mouse hole in the back of the anvil and nothing in the front. Thanks in advance - Beardedblacksmith
  11. HI there im a second year welding student and my teacher is having me go out and ask blacksmiths some questions. 1. Whats your name and where are you from? 2. How did you become a Blacksmith? 3. What do you like most about your job? 4. What do you dislike about your job? 5. What do you do on a day to day basis at work? 6. Do you have any welding background? 7. What advice would you give to a beginner welder? thank you!
  12. Hey guys I am not sure where to put this if this is not the place please move it to the correct place. My problem is with where I want to go with my life in regard to jobs. I have been preparing to work in law enforcement for several years and have been expecting to do that for longer. However I have been looking into getting a job as a blacksmith because I love working with metal so much. I may have an opportunity to be a spring blacksmith, the problem is it is several years of training. After the guy who trains me retires I would be the only one that can do this job for the rest of my career. I want to know what you guys would do. Confucius said "Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life."
  13. hey if you are a blacksmith that has a brick forge or knows some knowledge about brick smithy forge please I need major info. On how I can seal up the bricks that I have for my forge and what is the extremely best thing to do so. Also if you do this for a job mostly and not as a hobby please reply a.s.a.p.! Hobbyist you can answer as well. oh the attachment pic is somewhat what I'm trying to build. so please help me! and it needs to be at least under $55.00!
  14. I brought this peterwright today seeing if I can get a date on it. Its 247 pounds.
  15. I have a 207 pound trenton anvil I picked up and it has a badge on it. I have never seen this before and was wondering if anyone knows what this can be. And if anyone can tell me the year of this I would appreciate it alot thanks! -beardedblacksmith
  16. Can anyone tell me a brand on this swage block? Its 18x18 by 4 1/2 wide and its 275 pounds. The markings are not there do to use.
  17. One of the age old methods for making hardie tools is to forge the tool to the basic shape and size of the hardie hole and then heat the tool, place it in the hardy hole and hammer it into the hole so that it fits the shape of the hole and has a flange around it - Noting on my new anvlil that this method tends to draw the heat to the anvil as would be expected but is also affecting the heat treating around the hole - Not wanting to hurt the temper of my anvil face I'm looking at alternate methods of fitting the tools - any other ways folks are doing this? I'd sure like to keep this anvil pristine - not sure it's affecting the face but it on one occasion has actually caused a color change around the edges of the hardy hole. Maybe I'm just being wimpy about my new anvil but it sure is nice having really good tools for a change. Could be that I just left the tool in the hole too long or had the heat too high - dunno.
  18. Hello guys this is my first time ever writing a forum so go easy on me. However, after searching the internet for hours I cannot find a forum on my particular problem. I am running a homemade forge with a homemade fire pot and clinker breaker. Although I have burned bituminous before, it is hard to come by and I don't particularly care for how smoky and stinky it is! So after searching, I have found a local feed store that carries anthracite for a more than reasonable price of 5$ for 50lbs. I really like how hot and clean the anthracite burns and never seems to burn down as quickly as bituminous. However, I have a problem that occurs every time I run my Forge. It works beautifully for around an hour and I can easily reach welding heat, but after this first hour it is like a light switch is flipped. I can see a bunch of unburned, black coal at the bottom of my firepot and the fire cools down considerably. After about five minutes, my coal bed looks like checkered black and white. If I scoop the cold coal out of the center, there just seems to be more coal around cooling and falling down. I don't understand what the problem is seeing how well it works in the beginning of my fire. Apparently this isn't a common problem as i cant find a forum on it anywhere. It is very frustrating and is ruingin the forging experience for me. Anything would help, and thank you all.