Stash

So yeah that will make a fine hot cut hardie. Probably won't even need to harden and temper- just forge and normalize. Steve

You can make your own square headed lag bolts from ( unplated, ungalvanized) common big box hex lags. Square them up, wire brush wax and install. Easy peasy. Steve

I have a side draft poking horizontally thru the wall with the stack outside. The horizontal box is 13" square by 4' long, of 10 ga mild steel. I had a local guy shear the sheet and bend it for me, then I welded it together. The stack is 12" dia single wall galv duct- standard duct is probably 20- 22 ga or so. It is braced on the outside with some angle, and I put a basic turbine whirly- gig on the top. Works a treat for me and no roof penetrations. Natural convection with some help from the turbine (unpowered except by wind) gives me plenty of draft. Steve

I have a corner broken off mine, break goes diagonally across a square hole. Steve

Roy Underhill once described another multi- purpose tool as a ' steampunk spork'. That term has stuck with me and seems appropriate here. Steve

I saw something like that in an old 'Anvil's Ring'. Guy set a hood made from the end of a 275 g oil tank above the forge, with an exhaust vent cut into the wall. He then rigged the fan in the vent, but put it on the end of a shaft, so the motor was mounted a few feet back into the shop, thru the hood, so the fan motor wasn't exposed to the dust and smoke. Wired it up, and away he went. Seemed pretty effective. I just went and did the Hofi style side sucker, but I considered that exhaust fan idea. Either way you avoid roof penetration. Steve

Isaac- if you use that design with 3/8 or 1/2" steel, it should prit near outlast you. Steve

Now, I'm assuming you had your eye protection on...... Steve

sometimes, if the stars are aligned properly, that is all it takes. Looks like a good one. Steve

(Hand raised) Yup, mee too. Steve

Bedded down in silicone will certainly knock out the ring for you, but I would still recommend ear protection. There will still be enough noise to cause damage over an extended period. Earplugs on a string work well for me, they go in once the fire is lit, come out when hammering is done, and I can still hear the radio. Plugs are cheaper than hearing aids. Be safe Steve

I had the same thing a few years back in the same location indicated, to the point that I had a raised knot bulging out. My chiro called it tendonitis, and recommended ice and stay off it for a few days, and that did the trick. It was from repetitive action- I had just finished laying a few thousand bricks for a patio. Steve

I have the same firepot, and love it. Looks like you got their tuyere also- that wasn't available when I got mine. Forge looks good, but I think you will end up wishing you had a little more real estate on your table. The space between the firepot and the side cut outs looks fine, but you need a bit more room to pile your coal, tongs and stuff. What kind of flue/ chimney will you be using? Steve

Absolutely. Smells a lot better than motor oil. Keep it covered when not in use- it will attract varmints. Steve

Jonah- I don't know what you're paying for anthracite, but bitum is going for $8.50 to 12 per 50# in Lancaster and surroundings. Steve

Jonah- there's a few bituminous coal dealers in your area if you want a switch from the hard stuff. I don't have my info available right now, but one supplier is in Smoketown. Have a look at the local gang at www.pabasite.com- there are a few members of PABA and IFI in Lancaster (Crazy Ivan and JWS to name 2). Steve

Well, 32x 38 is my size also, but I wear them sideways. Steve

If you're going to use 2 tanks, just run both into a manifold, cut the draw on each tank by half when you run them together. Shouldn't freeze then. Steve

Hey Ian- was just going to text you to see if you scored. Hate to rub it in, but there were 5 or 6 anvils for sale at the PABA meeting, up to 220 #. Sorry you had to work. Steve

Yup. Blacksmithing is 'aard vark' all right. If it were easy, everyone would be doing it. Steve

On my forge (not a '55', but that doesn't change things) my blower air goes thru a 2" pipe before transitioning to 4" at the flange below the clinker breaker. The 2" provides plenty of air for my bottom blast coal burner. Steve

Don't have a pic right now, but it is a 1/4" x 1" flat bottom slot punch, forged from 3/4" 5160 and normalized. It is ~5" long, I hold it in tongs , cooling it every 2-3 blows. Punch 1/2 way through, or so, flip the piece and punch the slug(s) through the hardie hole. I just did a little touch up filing inside the hole, and flattened out the swelling on the bottom of the piece. Does that help? Steve

Retired after 37 years in landscaping, the last 23 doing my own design/ install gig. Previous to all that is some lumberjacking and tree climbing. I've slapped down a bunch of pavers in my day, but really focused on stonework. I'm also a certified (certifiable) plant geek. I'm now splitting time in the new house with wife, wood, metal and plants. Steve

Thanks, all. I figure the damage was done by the notorious 'shop gorilla'. I once worked with one of those guys. Strong as an ox, but couldn't pour water out of a bucket with the instructions printed on the bottom. Steve

Just to clarify, the fan in the OP is being used to provide air to my bottom blast coal forge. It is not being used for ventilation. My side sucker takes care of the smoke very nicely. The fan, by the way, puts out 110 cfm. Steve