JHCC Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 Couple of little things. Made a salvaged bucket into a coal scuttle: And turned my old coal bucket into a bigger electrolysis tank: (One of the things currently bubbling in there is a degreasing experiment, seeing if it will get the crud out of a chunk of the cable I got from @Daswulf.) Also realized that the problem with my vacuum-cleaner-turned-forge-blower was NOT the motor burning out, but the switch. Since the variac I use for speed control has an on/off switch, I cut out the switch out of the vacuum and rewired around it. Problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocrossley Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 Began to draw out a massive piece of #14 rebar with a sledge with a buddy of mine to make two kitchen knives. Wanted to use power hammer but apparently, we have to earn our stripes! We are only beginners but we are under the eye of Kevin Boys in London. Hopefully will make good Christmas presents for our partners. Definitely feeling it in my upper body now video-1512319642.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 1 hour ago, JHCC said: (One of the things currently bubbling in there is a degreasing experiment, seeing if it will get the crud out of a chunk of the cable I got from @Daswulf.) Progress after an hour or so (top): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 1 hour ago, ocrossley said: Began to draw out a massive piece of #14 rebar with a sledge with a buddy of mine to make two kitchen knives. Why are you using rebar for kitchen knives? I cannot find any reference as yet showing that #14 rebar is suitable for knives. I know as a general how it’s best to stay away from rebar for anything more than what it’s meant for or for handles for PW billets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 Different grading and standards in the UK for rebar due to the intended structural and safety requirements so it's more of a known steel than its US counterpart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocrossley Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 47 minutes ago, Michael Cochran said: Why are you using rebar for kitchen knives? I cannot find any reference as yet showing that #14 rebar is suitable for knives. I know as a general how it’s best to stay away from rebar for anything more than what it’s meant for or for handles for PW billets. I am using it so I can work on my hammer control and other skills including fit and finish. I know I will have a far from pretty/effective blade but It's a fun project for me to undertake before starting to use more expensive steels 32 minutes ago, JustAnotherBiker said: Different grading and standards in the UK for rebar due to the intended structural and safety requirements so it's more of a known steel than its US counterpart I wasn't actually aware of that as I'm a newbie, but interesting to know as I often see a lot of bad rep about rebar from our brothers across the pond! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 I know I’ve heard other places it’s often a better quality steel but I got the answer I expected. Ocrossley, unless yours is actually good steel your practice is only going to be so effective. Piloting a plane is far from the same a submarine so you cannot expect to learn how to pilot a sub by flying a plane no matter how hard you try. I would suggest getting alloys you can identify and practice on that so that you’re aware of how that steel reacts to the hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocrossley Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 3 hours ago, Michael Cochran said: I know I’ve heard other places it’s often a better quality steel but I got the answer I expected. Ocrossley, unless yours is actually good steel your practice is only going to be so effective. Piloting a plane is far from the same a submarine so you cannot expect to learn how to pilot a sub by flying a plane no matter how hard you try. I would suggest getting alloys you can identify and practice on that so that you’re aware of how that steel reacts to the hammer. Thanks a lot for the sterling advice Michael, what would you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 There are plenty of good options for knives. I think some alloys are better suited for different knives than others but 1080, 1095, and O1 should be good for most smaller kitchen knives. If you read in the knife making section there will be loads of useful information. Make sure you check out the heat treatment information. You Igor even want to consider getting a copy of steve sells book. Another quick tip. You don’t have to quote every time you reply to someone. It just takes up valuable bandwidth that Glenn graciously pays out of pocket for. If you have a specific question about something or you’re replying to a post that’s from some time in the past it’s fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocrossley Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Thanks again Michael, yes ive heard that 1095 steel is good for certain knives. I will invest in some in the near future. I will look up Steve Sells book! Duly noted about the quotes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Steve’s book is pinned in the tailgating section here on IFI. I don’t have the link handy but it shouldn’t be too hard to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Forge Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Made a stainless steel rounding hammer today It has been in the works for a couple months now, and I finally got a chance to forge it. It is made from 312 grade stainless steel, and weighs about 1.6 pounds. This grade of stainless is non-magnetic (austenitic), and I wasn't sure if it was even forgable. Thankfully everything turned out great. Just have to clean it up, dress the faces, and put a handle on it now. It's not hardened in any way...not quite sure how to go about it without any ferrous materials in it, and didn't want to run the risk of messing it up at the end. I made it thanks to Mark (Littleblacksmith) who was striking for me. Once mine was done I struck for him as he directed his own stainless hammer. Both turned our great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 JAB- You are doing well and progressing nicely. Good pair of first tongs, much better than mine! mine took about 4 tries before I got a functional pair, almost all for the same reason it took you more than one try. nice hook too. Bounty forge- Was a pleasure striking for you! you did a good job striking for me too. Both hammers turned out very nice! mine weighs in at about 1 5/8" lb, Pictures will come up tomorrow.Next time we will have to try out a ball pein. After you left I used a (brand new) wire wheel on an angle grinder to see if it would shine up any and it didn't really. I will have to see what else I can do to shine it up, but still leave the forging marks in (so not really any grinding) . any ideas anyone? Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 9 minutes ago, littleblacksmith said: I will have to see what else I can do to shine it up, but still leave the forging marks in (so not really any grinding) . any ideas anyone? Search the forum for “passivation”. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 just did, seems like a possibility, thank you. Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gergely Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 I often use Scotch Brite angle grinder discs on SS. It cleanes the surface more aggressively than a wirebrush but doesn't effect as abrasively as a flap grinding disc. Bests: Gergely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Forge Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 LB - Nice working with you too. You killed it striking for me, and I eventually got in a groove striking for you. Two hammers in half a day isn't bad for working together for the first time....with an odd material too. After a couple more hammers together we should be pretty fast. A ball peen sounds great for the next round. That's disappointing that it didn't really clean up with the wire wheel. I was going to wire wheel it and then buff it a little to see how that works. JHCC - I looked into passivation too, and it's sounding like to way to go. I have done small things in stainless before and got it to polish up ok on the wire wheel, but it does tarnish right back to a dull color if you don't clear coat it. Stainless is some weird stuff, so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that it takes a special technique to finish it. Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 6 minutes ago, BOUNTY FORGE said: Stainless is some weird stuff, so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that it takes a special technique to finish it. Thanks for the tip. I've never done it myself, but I've seen it mentioned here often enough to know the direction to point you in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Forge Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 3 minutes ago, JHCC said: I've never done it myself, but I've seen it mentioned here often enough to know the direction to point you in! I think I'll go the citric acid route and see how that works...you can get it at the grocery store, so that's easy. I'll post pictures of the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 I will have to pick up a scotch brite disc, I have never used one. is there different "grits"? if so what would you recommend Gergely? Thanks! I eventually got in a groove with directing. after punching, things went smoother haha. as promised pictures of the hammer we made, and also pictures of the Damascus one from a while back. Also took some pictures of a trivet I made, jlpservicesinc what do you think? your the person to ask on this sorta work, almost afraid of the answer yours are so good haha. also, inspired by JustAnotherBiker I tried my hand at a guitar bottle opener. Whent alright, other than that it doesn't really work...I need to make the lip a little large I think, but other than that things went not half bad. Littleblacksmith Well, not sure why that picture of me the Damascus hammer is at the top, and sorry for the pictures of the stainless hammer being upside down. here is maybe a better pick of the Damascus hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 On 12/1/2017 at 12:07 AM, Ranchmanben said: I built one set of half inch bolt tongs today and I’m hoping I’ll get a chance tomorrow to build the other set in need to make. Felt pretty good to use a hammer I made myself. Lovely sets of bolt tongs. Really like the fine details of offsetting and flared ends on the reins. Any chance there is a video out somewhere that shows this process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Really nice stuff, Mark. I love the trivet. The guitar is cool, too. You could do a banjo by keeping the main part round and doing four tuning pegs (punch marks) on the head with another tuning peg off to the side, about 1/3 of the way down the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gergely Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Hi Mark, There are different colors of the Scotch Brite flap discs. Mainly red and blue. I use the red but as far as I know there isn't that much of difference. Stainless finishing #1 rule applies here too: if you want to use something on SS use it only on SS. I very much like your trivet - it's nicely composed and clean looking. And the black walnut handle does look good with the PW hammer! Bests: Gergely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Work had me pretty angry today so I needed something heavy to work on. After putting brakes on the lovely ladies car I decided to start a stump anvil out of a hammer. I intended to finish it but that wasn't the case. swaged and drifted the hammer eye wider then upset to roundish. Then took a bit of 1 1/4 or so torsion bar and started the shaft. I upset the torsion bar in the hammer eye and that's where I called it quits for the evening. I'll be doing some welding/ grinding and a bit more forging before its done. Just needed to let off some steam and try an idea and so far it worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Any more luck with your chrome removal? I was just thinking about it the other night, and the chrome on some of my bike parts... the tiniest surface scratch from a stone chip, give it a few weeks in damp weather and it'll start corroding and can even begin flaking off... so in theory you should just need to scratch/grind the surface in one part, and that should allow the acid to get under the top layer and eat it from the inside out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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