JustAnotherViking Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 8 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: Can you mount it on the bottom of the top instead of the top? That should get you an inch or two. I'm not rushing to get it mounted as I'm just using my garage as a temporary forge. Hopefully by this time next week this concrete base will have walls and a roof: Once that's sorted, I'll get things better situated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Welded up some field-expedient swages out of scraps of pipe, rebar, plate, and angle iron. Still need grinding, but I think my welding is improving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stitch Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Nice work!! I can't wait to see them finished John! I finished my swan neck hardy yesterday from one of the Jackhammer bits you gave me. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Nice. Did you harden and temper it, or just normalize? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stitch Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 I let it air harden then drew it at 400F for an hour and it turned out really tough! Works great for scroll starting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 And after a little grinding and wire wheeling: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Nice JHCC, I've been meaning to make some of those. That's pretty much how I planned on making them as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Here are the stems that fit into the hardy hole. One of them is a piece of angle iron; the other, a bit of flat bar that goes corner to corner. All very rough-and-ready. Pretty ready, but also pretty rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stitch Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Very nice, looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Well when it comes to a down and dirty tool to get a job done they don't Have to be pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranchmanben Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 23 hours ago, Daswulf said: Ben, Nice work, what steel did you use? I keep thinking they need to be made of higher carbon steel but that might just be a misconception I have. I used a piece of coil spring, I had the same worry about what steel to use. It got tested few times last night and it survived intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 I was thinking about the stainless hammers. I'm not sure there is a point in passivizing them really. Ya'll have been saying, you got to be sure not to use abrasives that have been used on steel because it will transfer onto the stainless steel and will cause it to rust, but, that also I would think would mean that when you have it laying on your anvil that it would be "contaminated" and would make the passivizing pointless. Now, I may passivate it just because, but, I was just thinking about that. What do ya'll think?? Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 8 minutes ago, littleblacksmith said: . Now, I may passivate it just because, but, I was just thinking about that. What do ya'll think?? Littleblacksmith You are correct.. any carbon steels will transfer.. chemical passivation i's the easy way to do it but you can also grind then use buffing wheels with fine abrasives.. I've done stainless steel weldaments and as long as you get all the big cracks off and give it a full polish it will take a long time for it to rust.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 1 minute ago, jlpservicesinc said: You are correct.. any carbon steels will transfer.. chemical passivation i's the easy way to do it but you can also grind then use buffing wheels with fine abrasives.. I've done stainless steel weldaments and as long as you get all the big cracks off and give it a full polish it will take a long time for it to rust.. so, are you saying that I should passivate it? I will only be grinding the faces, though will be using a scotch brite on the rest of the hammer. Don't have any cracks in it.... Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Tried out the stake anvil tonight ( I love it)!even with a few misstrikes it held up. It's mounted too high in my shop abuse stump that I did some forming in. The ring around where the shaft goes through makes no difference. I hammered like heck on it and it held up great. Only a "thunk, thunk,thunk.,.. Really cool and different. Next is to find a stump the correct height. It is proofed in my opinion and the testing will continue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 7 minutes ago, littleblacksmith said: so, are you saying that I should passivate it? I will only be grinding the faces, though will be using a scotch brite on the rest of the hammer. Don't have any cracks in it.... Littleblacksmith Ideally all the scale needs to be removed.. if you are happy with the finish the scotch Brite leaves then good enough... passivation is used primarily on smoother finished items to remove the iron carbon matrix and leave a chromium surface exposed. In other words it's not usually used on roughly finished items.. only polished to highly polished.. So the question becomes how finely finished do you want it to be? It's been a long time but there are products sold that will remove the scaled surface and leaves a matt under layer perfect for polishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 Ok. Then looks like I may not passivate it as it sounds almost pointless, as I would prefer it to still look forged and not machined, so I wont be doing any serious grinding and polishing to it. Das-Nice stake anvil!! so, did yo forge weld that stake in there? I know you riveted it on (if I remember correctly), but also remember you saying that you did some welding. Or did you electrically weld it in? you had said that you had thought about making one out of RR track, I have forged one out of the flange before. Really simple to do, a much smaller one though. the one I did, I quenched in water, will never do that again! left some 2" or so long cracks in it! I still use it, lasted about a year, and then a couple months ago the tip of the horn fell off. It was a laughing crying moment, I couldn't get over how funny it was, but also it really stank that I just broke the horn off an anvil (sounds pretty bad when I put it that way....). I need to make a new one, I mostly just used it for the horn for shaping key rings on. Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 The only way to leave it as forged perfect is to use perfectly smooth tooling and then do an acid bath and then for the maximum protection, passivization.. smoothness of the surface is the key to rust resistance in stainless.. smoothness at a microscopic level and this is where passivization shines.. Nearly all Stainless steel processed is passivized as the last finish process.. Like i said before it's been years since I looked into it and I used a spacial compound for cleaning food grade stainless steel weldaments.. It was really bad stuff.. you can try high strength vinegar to get rid of the scale.. It will be a slow process but it could offer decent results but at some point you will still need to polish it.. This is where having a passivization tank can make a world of difference.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 I made this from an old rr hammer and torsion bar from a truck. Both sparked high carbon. I did do some MIG welding and tried some TIG welding on the face but I probably would have had the same results without welding on the face. It turned out great and "feels" as hard as my other anvils under the hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Been trying to catch up with a stock of these bull's head camp oven lifters to meet the Christmas rush: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stitch Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Beautiful, just beautiful ausfire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Thanks Stitch. You can lift camp oven lids with a bit of fence wire or a tent peg, but these lifters do sell well. They are popular with caravanners and campers and I think people like the Outback style of them. I like them for demos too, because there is a variety of processes involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Made a fullering tool today using bits and pieces I had sitting about. Rough and ready, but it worked ok on a test piece. Going to have to hunt for some springs for the sides so it pops back up. All I had was some valve springs but they were too big and a bit too stiff for this purpose. Also bent a bit of round bar to replace the broken u bolt from the leg vice. Now I need to track down a suitably sized die to cut the threads. Not very exciting, but somewhat productive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 28 minutes ago, JustAnotherBiker said: Now I need to track down a suitably sized die to cut the threads. Why not cut the threaded sections off of the old U-bolt and weld them onto the new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 You know the old saying "the more I practice welding, the better I get... At grinding" I'm not the best at grinding either Should be able to borrow a die tomorrow, or failing that, any excuse to buy new tools! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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